Dipping the entire assembly is usually reserved for berryman's, and if you dip anything rubber, kiss it goodbye (including diaphrams, float seats, and orings...)

You already have them off, right? Spend the extra time and do it right! Take EVERYTHING apart (keeping good notes, btw) and clean it all.

You've got the float height, the float needle arrangement, the emulsion tube, the needle, the slide assembly, the idle mixture setup, the choke feed, the choke plunger to worry about.... may as well tear it all down to the basics and worry about it all WELL, yanno?

Breaking down carbs sucks, but having to do it twice sucks more

 

Dipping the entire assembly is usually reserved for berryman's, and if you dip anything rubber, kiss it goodbye (including diaphrams, float seats, and orings...)

You already have them off, right? Spend the extra time and do it right! Take EVERYTHING apart (keeping good notes, btw) and clean it all.

You've got the float height, the float needle arrangement, the emulsion tube, the needle, the slide assembly, the idle mixture setup, the choke feed, the choke plunger to worry about.... may as well tear it all down to the basics and worry about it all WELL, yanno?

Breaking down carbs sucks, but having to do it twice sucks more

Word, Just disasmble and clean them.

 

I always dip the entire dissassebled rack of carbs in a Kerosene bath... and then blow off with an air gun...:thumbup

 

Allright so I used every resource available and cleaned them really well. I put everything back together while popping a new pair of plugs. Now It starts on the first hit no choke and idles like brand new. THANK YOU FOR THE HELP GUYS. The replies and the past posts really gave me some confidence for a guy who has never touched an engine before. I am just amazed at how well it runs now after having to start it for 5+ minutes. Thank you again

R6MN PWNS.

 

what links did you use to help you out iam doin mine tponight

 

So dimi, how did you end up cleaning your carbs then? Did you take them all apart or just use the spray to clean the jets?

 

I've cleaned them twice now (didn't really have to the second time, but because I had them off for a jet install) and I didn't completely break them down.

I just took the jets and needles out and sprayed carb cleaner every place I could get to and dry them out with compressed air. I soaked the jets in carb cleaner over night.

 

Right on thanks rob. I was looking at the carb diagram in the manual, and really didn't want to take the carbs all apart.

So did you clean your carbs because you were having a problem or just for preventative maintenance? If you had a specific problem, did cleaning them resolve the problem for you?

The problem I have is hard starting sometimes, and sputtering at idle and low rpms. And I've synched the hell out of the carbs but have never cleaned them.

 

Well, the first time I cleaned the carbs out, it was because of a problem I had with starting and idling.

When I bought my bike, it sat in the prior owners garage for a little over 2 years.

The bike ran some what ok, but i had to full choke it and even give it a little gas to get it going from a cold start. And the idle was pretty bad - almost like a V-twin.

Anyway, the first time I took the carbs off I noticed how the inside of the float bowl chambers were stained a rust color from the old gas. I took a Q-tip drentched with carb cleaner and cleaned as much out as I could get to. This was after I removed the needles, needle holder, and all assoiated pieces that go with the needle, main jet and holder, pilot jet, and floats.

I used 2 full cans of carb cleaner (can't remember the kind - I just remembered not to get caustic(sp) type as the owners manual said not to use it) and I just sprayed it into every passage I could find. I then hooked up the air compressor and used that to dry them out the best I could.

I took my needles/main jet with holder/pilot jet and soaked them in some carb cleaner overnight and used compressed air to dry them.

I put new plugs in at the time, did a carb sync, cleaned the air filter and the bike ran like new. It starts now w/o having to even use the choke from a cold start and my gas mileage went from around 35 or so to 45!!

So I would say it solved my problem :thumbup

 

Sweet, that's exactly what I wanted to hear. I'll be cleaing my carbs out as soon as I get off work. Thanks again.

 

Well finally did it. I'm exhausted right now. Started last night , took me forever to get the carbs out because I had a hell of a time finding the clamp screws. Carbs wouldn't come out just by rocking back and forth. I didn't take them all the way apart. I just took off the back where the float bowls are, took out the pilot jets and cleaned those real good. Then I just sprayed into the main jet w/ the cleaner. I used almost 2 cans of the cleaner, sprayed everywhere I could and then used the air compressor after that.

I didn't really see how to get the TPS cable off the carbs, or the idle cable, otherwise I might have considered soaking them.

Oh another part I had a hard time with was that rubber vacuum chamber cover (getting it lined up in the grooves) so I could put the cover on.

So after all that, bike ran pretty good actually. Gave me an opportunity to synch the carbs a bit w/ the airbox off...had to do it by ear since I don't have a synch tool. Bike seems to have started easier and is better from a stop. I don't have to gun it like I used to, and idle is noticeably better. Gonna take her for a longer ride tomorrow.

Oh also there was one hose that I'm not sure I have hooked up correctly:

It's a "Y" hose, with the bottom tube plugged.

I couldn't find it in the manual, and the only place I was able to connect it to were 2 brass connectors towards the rear and bottom of the carbs. Only problem was the cable doesn't line up...you have to bend it slightly. Hope this makes sense. If anyone knows what I'm talking about, does it sound like I have it in the right spot?

 

Oh also there was one hose that I'm not sure I have hooked up correctly:

It's a "Y" hose, with the bottom tube plugged.

I couldn't find it in the manual, and the only place I was able to connect it to were 2 brass connectors towards the rear and bottom of the carbs. Only problem was the cable doesn't line up...you have to bend it slightly. Hope this makes sense. If anyone knows what I'm talking about, does it sound like I have it in the right spot?

I've got a bunch of url's with some detailed pic's of carb removal for the R6, but they are at home. I'll post them up when I get home.

 

Right on thanks man.

 

Is this picture at the bottom of this page what your refering to?

http://www.eecs.tufts.edu/~sbruno/carbfaq/


I also have these web pages on carb related stuff;

http://home.centurytel.net/YamahaR6/carb.htm
http://66.47.68.116/tech/carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/FZ1carbsync.htm
http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/carburetorsynchronization.html
http://www.motocross.com/motoprof/moto/mcycle/carb101/carb101.html
http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/jetkitinstallation.html
http://www.sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/r6carbinfo.html
http://borg20013.tripod.com/service_sectionh.htm

 

Dude those are some awesome links, thanks for posting them.

Here's the hose I'm talking about. But mine is a little different than the one in the pic. The middle hose has a plug in it and doesn't connect to anything. Man this is driving me nuts. But the bike is running absolutely great, rode it 50 miles to/from work w/ no problems. Keep in mind I have a cali model, so I don't know, I've never heard of the carbs being different w/ cali models. I don't want to take it all apart, cuz I know I have everthing else connected correctly (cuz there was no other way to hook anything up). Well hopefully I won't have any problems until the next time I get a chance to check things out again.

Anyway thanks again for the links man. Now I'm gonna have to learn how to make my carbs run a little richer.