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Brake caliper pistons

5.9K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  mattg  
#1 · (Edited)
Well, I have been putting this off, but I FINALLY have 2 days off, so I am going to work on this today. Hofefully cleaning out my calipers will get rid of the awful brake drag I have with the front brakes. I am going to re-use the seals, just clean them up the best I can.

I helped a friend of mine change out his disc brake's to cross drilled/sloted and stainless steel brake lines on his car and he had a bottle of brake fluid left over that he gave me.

http://www.intakeone.com/brake_systems/MotulRBF600.html

Is this good stuff? That site is asking $20 for one bottle, so it better be. Also, would 1 1/2 liter bottle be enough for the front brakes?

This thread from this forum said something about working the pistons back and forth after you get everything put back together and something about permitex caliper piston grease - made a lot of sence.
http://www.ccsforum.com/index.php?topic=17325.msg145295
1. Brake drag:

That model R6 has always been notorious for front brake drag. I spent hours getting that system to work halfway decent. If your willing to spend the time, here are some things you can do.

First take the pistons out and polish them.

When you re-install, use permitex caliper piston grease in the grove of the seal and spread on the piston face as well.

After you've got everthing back together leave the calipers off and work the pistons back and forth (this is easier with the pads installed, make sure to put something in-between the pads of the caliper you are NOT working on to keep the pistons from popping all the way out) by pumping them out with the lever and then pushing them back in. After a while you should start to see them retract when you release the lever, now your brake drag should be minimal.

remove the pads and wipe off any excess piston grease to avoid attracting dust/dirt.

In the future - Do not use brake cleaner to clean the calipers and pistons as it dries out the seals. Use something like WD-40 or some guys like simple green.
 
#2 · (Edited)
relube the pistons and seals with the brake fluid. thats what the service manual suggests.

put a piece of 1/4 inch wood between the pistons. so when you blow air in the caliper they don't hit each other. and keep your fingers out of there when you do it. I got mine jammed in there and crushed. and they dont release unless you pry on them.

I also used permatex's synthetic caliper grease on mine. now permatex has a better lube for calipers. and you can use it on the pistons and seals. but I can't find it in stores yet.
http://www.permatex.com/products/au...ricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Ceramic_Extreme_Brake_Parts_Lubricant.htm

a one liter bottle is way way more than enough. I end up using 1/2 - 3/4 of a 12oz bottle. a liter is basically a quart.
 
#5 ·
thanks for the reply guys.

I worked on it for about an hour or so yesterday, but I don't have an air compressor :( All I have is this;
Image



I just placed the nozzle from my mini compressor (which all I have is the tip that fits for filling up car/bike tires) over the inlet from the banjo bolt (not very good of a seal at all). Do they make an attachment for this kind of cheap air compressor that kind of looks like an air blower - what I mean is, starts out very narrow then gets bigger to make a good seal around the brake line opening in the caliper?

Like this, but with an adaptor that will fit into that mini-compressor
Image


Well, using this sorry ass method, I did manage to get 3 of the 4 pistons out of the right caliper. I guess I just couldn't build up enough pressure though. I was trying to put the nozzle over the brakeline port and close the three other brake fluid passages with my fingers. I have fairly small hands, but there was no way. And if did happen to come out with my hand it there it would've gave me a pretty good little shot, but I wanted to at least get that one caliper done.

This is the right caliper I was able to get the 3 pistons out of;
Image

The left caliper on the other hand - I was only able to get 1 piston out;
Image

Before I started doing this, I raised the front wheel off the ground and first took the right caliper off and spun the tire - no change really from both brake calipers attached - abour 1/2 turn with a lot of force to spin the tire. Then I switched and took the left side off and put the right caliper on (with both off it will spin 10x+) it spun about 2 full revalutions! I also noticed that I could see the pistons actually retracting a bit in the right caliper as I let off the brake. But in the left, I could see only one retract (which was the one that popped out).

I think this is the main reason I was only able to get 1 of the pistons out of the left caliper. Left caliper is really gummed up.

I have a friend from work who is going to let me borrow his 70lb air tank with a blower attachment (I should've gotten this from him before I started). So hopefully this will create enough pressure to pop the remaining pistons out.

Here is how I have my brake lines - I tried to get them as far away from anything as I could.
Image

Image

I also filled up my resevior with some old/new dot 4 brake fluid (I say old because the seal was broken about a year ago) and tried to flush the brake lines.

I plan to have the brakes put back on by tomorrow.

I tried using the rag method Thrak, but I am sure it will work out once I get the "correct" tool.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I have an air compressor and still had trouble getting all the pistons out. .

I seen a video of a honda tech and he didn't bother to remove them completely. he put a thin piece of wood, like a shim in between the 4 pistons and let them all come out at once. they don't come out of the caliper all the way at this point (as you know)then he use a old tooth brush and brushed them off with a cleaner he had that was safe for rubber.
 
#7 ·
serpentracer said:
I have an air compressor and still had trouble getting all the pistons out. .

I seen a video of a honda tech and he didn't bother to remove them completely. he put a thin piece of wood, like a shim in between the 4 pistons and let them all come out at once. they don't come out of the caliper all the way at this point (as you know)then he use a old tooth brush and brushed them off with a cleaner he had that was safe for rubber.
Yeah, I took the calipers to a friend of mines place today (who has a air compressor) and I was able to get two more pistons out of the left caliper.

So that left me with 1 piston remaining in each caliper.

We tried everything to get that last piston out of each cylinder, wood clamps, c-clamps (with a piece of wood to cover the other 3 piston chambers) , pushing the piston back it, then popping it out again - spent close to 2 hours trying differant stuff. Nothing.

He asked me if we could just take those big blue screws out (thats the side both of the 1 remaining piston is in each caliper). I've read that you don't remove those, but I wouldn't know how to take them out anyway.

Has anyone removed those big blue screws? I've finally just decided that I going to clean the calipers up as much as I can w/o getting those last pistons out.

I think the next time I clean the calipers up (this is what I should've done) I'll get a piece of linoleum (I have a bunch left over and cause its so thin), cut it to about the size of my brake pads, put it inbetween the pistons. Then I will force them all out at once. I think that will work pretty good.

I've already removed the seals on the 6 pistons that I got out and I don't want to mess with it anymore.
 
#9 ·
I always remove the pistons furthest from the line and bleeder ports first, then the 2 up top. You can make a tool out of strap steel, welded (or bent) into a "U" shape to hold the pistons in their bores, while you remove the others.

Do what you need to do to remove the last 2 pistons. It would be a shame to go to all this trouble and still have the brakes drag because you only did the job part way.
 
#10 ·
YamRZ350 said:
I always remove the pistons furthest from the line and bleeder ports first, then the 2 up top. You can make a tool out of strap steel, welded (or bent) into a "U" shape to hold the pistons in their bores, while you remove the others.

Do what you need to do to remove the last 2 pistons. It would be a shame to go to all this trouble and still have the brakes drag because you only did the job part way.
Well, I cleaned the calipers up pretty good last night. I was thining that I could go ahead and put those seals back in along with the pistons, then make what you describe "U" or find something else that will clamp down the 3 pistons that I just cleaned. Put compressed air to it again with those clamps in place and it should easily pop the remaining piston out.

I could probably do what I was doing before with the clamps to block off the pistons... See I think now it should work a lot better before with the pistons and seals in there as no air should be escaping.
 
#11 ·
SUCESS!!!!!!

I was able to get the last piston out of each cylinder - here is how I did it
Image

After I cleaned up the seals and piston blocks I re-instaleld the seals and pistons.

Picture is a bit blurry, but I cut up a bunch of strips of linoleum to block two of the pistons and I used a hose clamp to block off the 3rd piston. That piston that I spent a good hour yesterday trying to get out, came out in about 5 seconds. And I didn't even need an air compressor, I just was able to use my poor mans electric air pump method and it came right out!!

I went to pepboys and bought this;
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/brake_maintenance_repair/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Disc_Brake_Caliper_Lube_Hi-Temp_Silicone_Formula.htm
I did some searching on that stuff you mentioned serpentracer, but it seems to have just came out.

I lubed up the seals - but not to much and I put a very thin layer over the pistons. I don't think I will ever have to buy another bottle of this stuff ever again - i could probably do 50 brake sets with what I have left.

Thanks YamRZ350, I was going to just give up and not complete the job - I am glad I did now :thumbup

Tomorrow after work they go back on.
 
#12 ·
I'm having a huge problem with brake drag. I've put in new seals, cleaned the pistons, rebuilt the master, and now i've ordered new rotors.

my brakes drag, and the other major problem is that I have to pump the brakes back up after hard braking. This is especially a problem at Road America, braking into turn 5 is great, but then I have to pump them back up 2-3 full pumps before I have anything for turn 6. :(

What do you guys think?
 
#13 ·
What kind of fluid did you use? Loosing brake feel after hard braking is from the fluid boiling in the calipers - at least, thats what I was told.

Well, after I got my brakes put back on/bleed - I still have a bit a brake drag, but no where near as bad as before, I get about 4 full turns now from the front tire, where before it was only 1/2 turn.

I pretty happy with it - I re-used the seals also.
 
#14 ·
my brake drag went away till i did hard braking. I could get 4 turns out of it... after hitting turn 5 just once, i was back down to one revolution.

i was using valvoline DOT4 synthetic with a 574* boiling point. :( i should go buy some of this stuff. https://www.innovativetuning.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=76

i get almost 1 turn out of a free revolution right now. i'd be happy if i could get 4. one of the guys i track ride with has an 05 r6 and gets no drag.


this just sucks.