R6 Message Net banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
03 motor in older r6 frame will it fit
if not how can i make it fit
i have all the parts from a 01 r6 exsepct motor and have a 03 motor lol
any ideas or anyone done it please repost
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
I cant imagine this working and/or being worth your time or anyone elses... There were a lot of changes made to the bike, motor and frame between 01 and 03.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it would be convienent being as i have all the parts from a 01 with a title everything... sept motor lol and a great runnin 03 motor so none has done it !??????????????/
 

·
oh yeah
Joined
·
733 Posts
ive seen a thread on this somewhere...either on here or r6-forum.
didnt fit if i recall. guy took frame and engine in had it measured by dealer and they said it was a no go....

but that may have been an 03 r1 engine on an 01 r6 frame....

ill look around for it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I put an 05 in my 99. I had to drill the bottom rear bolt out and make off centre bushings for the top pinch points. I also omitted the front left mount seeing there isn’t one on the right. I also fitted the front and rear suspension and the curved rad is direct fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I put an 05 in my 99. I had to drill the bottom rear bolt out and make off centre bushings for the top pinch points. I also omitted the front left mount seeing there isn’t one on the right. I also fitted the front and rear suspension and the curved rad is direct fit.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I swapped a 2005 R6 into my ‘99. I got the 2005 5SL for $400 and for an extra $100 I was given the rad, forks, rear shocks and 5 spoke wheels.

I was not given the harness, so I ditched the fuel injection, fitted my carbs. You have to modify two engine mounting points that is very easy. I put the engine in and lined up the bolt that goes into the rear top mount and installed that bolt. The next bolts I dealt with are the ones that are near the center of the engine that get pinched. They will not align now but it’s simple. Get a piece of round bar that fits the boss, cut to the proper length, and drill the hole off centre. I did this on a drill press. I think there was two millimeters of wall left, it was very close to the edge of the bar, but still after drilling it fit easy I installed the bolts and tightened the pinch bolts. The rear bottom bolt of the engine needs to be raised a few mm now. I used a hand drill and used the frame as a guide for hole location, and drilled the engine. There is a little webbing that needed to be removed in there that is easy to do from under the bike using a spinning bit on a die grinder. Now that bolt is easy to install. I then removed the engine an cut off the front mount going to the head from the frame and cleaned up the frame.
Sensors:
The pick up rotor has to be swapped, 5sl has 4 prongs and the 5EB has 5 prongs. Then swap the the pick up coil. The speed sensor needs to be changed. The oil level sensor needs to be changed. I changed the valve cover with the 5EB and the thing that holds down the cams. There were two holes in the head for smog sensors I tapped and filled with set screws. I installed the set screws with red lock tight. Then the cam hold down thing I torqued in sequence to 10 n/m, and put the valve cover on. The carb coolant line was omitted. The boots for the carbs need to be swapped but the two holes on each of them need to be slotted to the outside. The temp sensor needs to be swapped but needs an adaptor, just take both sensors with you when you go to buy. I have the proper tap and die sizes so I made mine easy enough. And the last thing I can think of was to use the curved rad I cut the fan switch bung out of the flat rad with a hole saw. Then cut the hole on the right side tank of the curved rad as far right as I could and tig welded it in. It’s the biggest job for this swap. For what it’s worth just keep the flat rad.

One last thing and it’s just a suggestion is to vent the crank case to atmosphere and plug it’s hole in the air box. You don’t want that dirty oil vapour in your combustion chamber, I don’t care what anyone says. In fact I vent every engine I own to atmosphere and recommend it to everyone. If you have a sticking valve I guarantee the PCV is the culprit.

Get your swap on and enjoy the buttery smooth transmission the second gen bike had to offer. The first gen R6 is to this day my favourite bike. With a set of USD forks and swapping the steerer bearings and races from feeble ball bearings to tapered needle bearings from an SRAD GSXR750 you are gold! Fact, ball bearings do not handle side load well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I've got 99 r6 and needs some work gears slipping other then that bike seems to run fine. Question is I can get a 05 r6 pretty much complete it's an insurance Wright off for cheap would it be a better idea to swap the engine , wiring harness etc or just swap the gears this is basically my first r6 I've had other bikes in the past but never an r6 what would u do if you were me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I've got 99 r6 and needs some work gears slipping other then that bike seems to run fine. Question is I can get a 05 r6 pretty much complete it's an insurance Wright off for cheap would it be a better idea to swap the engine , wiring harness etc or just swap the gears this is basically my first r6 I've had other bikes in the past but never an r6 what would u do if you were me.

Can you still get that 05 motor?
 

·
Registered
Yamaha R6
Joined
·
11 Posts
I swapped a 2005 R6 into my ‘99. I got the 2005 5SL for $400 and for an extra $100 I was given the rad, forks, rear shocks and 5 spoke wheels.

I was not given the harness, so I ditched the fuel injection, fitted my carbs. You have to modify two engine mounting points that is very easy. I put the engine in and lined up the bolt that goes into the rear top mount and installed that bolt. The next bolts I dealt with are the ones that are near the center of the engine that get pinched. They will not align now but it’s simple. Get a piece of round bar that fits the boss, cut to the proper length, and drill the hole off centre. I did this on a drill press. I think there was two millimeters of wall left, it was very close to the edge of the bar, but still after drilling it fit easy I installed the bolts and tightened the pinch bolts. The rear bottom bolt of the engine needs to be raised a few mm now. I used a hand drill and used the frame as a guide for hole location, and drilled the engine. There is a little webbing that needed to be removed in there that is easy to do from under the bike using a spinning bit on a die grinder. Now that bolt is easy to install. I then removed the engine an cut off the front mount going to the head from the frame and cleaned up the frame.
Sensors:
The pick up rotor has to be swapped, 5sl has 4 prongs and the 5EB has 5 prongs. Then swap the the pick up coil. The speed sensor needs to be changed. The oil level sensor needs to be changed. I changed the valve cover with the 5EB and the thing that holds down the cams. There were two holes in the head for smog sensors I tapped and filled with set screws. I installed the set screws with red lock tight. Then the cam hold down thing I torqued in sequence to 10 n/m, and put the valve cover on. The carb coolant line was omitted. The boots for the carbs need to be swapped but the two holes on each of them need to be slotted to the outside. The temp sensor needs to be swapped but needs an adaptor, just take both sensors with you when you go to buy. I have the proper tap and die sizes so I made mine easy enough. And the last thing I can think of was to use the curved rad I cut the fan switch bung out of the flat rad with a hole saw. Then cut the hole on the right side tank of the curved rad as far right as I could and tig welded it in. It’s the biggest job for this swap. For what it’s worth just keep the flat rad.

One last thing and it’s just a suggestion is to vent the crank case to atmosphere and plug it’s hole in the air box. You don’t want that dirty oil vapour in your combustion chamber, I don’t care what anyone says. In fact I vent every engine I own to atmosphere and recommend it to everyone. If you have a sticking valve I guarantee the PCV is the culprit.

Get your swap on and enjoy the buttery smooth transmission the second gen bike had to offer. The first gen R6 is to this day my favourite bike. With a set of USD forks and swapping the steerer bearings and races from feeble ball bearings to tapered needle bearings from an SRAD GSXR750 you are gold! Fact, ball bearings do not handle side load well.
I put an 05 in my 99. I had to drill the bottom rear bolt out and make off centre bushings for the top pinch points. I also omitted the front left mount seeing there isn’t one on the right. I also fitted the front and rear suspension and the curved rad is direct fit.

Hi

Just wondering if wouldn’t mind with a few questions on your 05 - 99 R6 conversion? Is it still going strong, or have there be any issues arising out of the change.

My 2000 engine is losing power when taking off and it has the second gear curse. I’m thinking of doing the same conversion you did and I found your post on how you did this awesome. I’m just wondering if I hit a spot of difficulty, maybe I could ask you how you did. For example, can you confirm you did not split the cylinder head and that you did in fact use the 99 Cam holder to lock down your cams?

Once again, many thx 🙏 for the amazing sharing of knowledge, if everyone did this it would be great. I will document my conversion here and on you tube fir others like us who love ❤ the first gen R6!

kind regards
Ken
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top