Unfortunately, it is not a simple an answer as some would like to believe.How often are you suppose to change the oil. I think the book says 4000 miles. I am currently running the Yamaha Synthetic (the blood red oil). No problems noted.
Valvoline is a Hydro-Cracked Product which means a Highly Refined Petroleum Product, allowed to call itself "synthetic" by law..I have recently bought a 08 Yamaha YZF R6. This is my first sportbike to own. I have been looking at a lot of oils most of my friends use honda 10/40 syn. moto. oil. But I have been looking at valvoline`s 4stroke syn. moto oil have any of you guys used it or any other suggestions
"Guy at the shop" doesn't know what he is talking about ! That is the problem talking to a mechanic or parts guy that usually has Zero Technical training in Lubricants.Guy at the shop told me to do 50-50 dino and synthetic when changing over from Yamalube to synthetic. Can anyone substantiate this?
How much oil do I need to put in a 2005 R6 with an oil filter change included?This thread will be stickied to point all newbie oil questions to
There has been alot of discussion about oils, oil filters, and which applications are best.
Oil Filters known to work on 99-05 R6 and R6S models
Napa gold 1358
ACDelco # PF2057
OEM Honda #5410-MCJ-000
06+ R6 known filters
Most people prefer the Mobil1, K&N, or Purolator filter, and discourage Fram, although any of those will fit.
Here is a great write up about oil filters, and their internals, with pictures.
If you read the manual you will notice it says to use Non-EC (energy conserving) oils only. This is what you should look for on the back of the oil bottle, it will not say Energy Conserving on the bottom. Because your motorcycle has a wet clutch, and is actually partially submerged in the oil, some say your clutch will slip. Debates rage on as to whether this is a needed concern, or just a marketing ploy playing on your fears, to get you to spend extra money for motorcycle specific oils.
15w50, 10w40, 5w30 and 5w20 are the most common oils used in our bikes. Brands are generally personal preference, but most here will recommend Mobil1. Mobil1's "Extended Life" 15w50 (Red Cap Replacement) motor oil is a favorite of many, and their new "Truck and SUV" 5w30 is also a great oil, free of any friction modifiers (EC rating).
Others have reported no ill-effect from running oils with the EC marking. Personally, I've used EC rated oils for quite a while, in various applications (endurance racing, spring racing, street use), with no problems on a variety (OEM Yamaha, OEM Suzuki, and aftermarket) of clutches.
Do your own experiments to see what works best for you. If you use an EC rated oil, and your clutch slips, it is very simple to change the oil back to a non-EC oil, and have no long term effects.
Synthetic oils provide the best protection, but at a premium price. Whether or not it is an advantage in street riding is up for debate. You can switch to synthetic oil whenever you want. Lets not forget, that many manufacturers use synthetic oil straight from the factory!
Put in 2.5qts with a filter change, and add oil as needed. Generally, you'll need approx 2.8qts with filter change. Be careful not to overfill.
I encourage others input into this thread.
*Thanks to eventnick for the following link. :thumbup
Screw the book. I'm a motorcycle mechanic and a CCS racer.No, that is overfilled... 2.75 qts with a filter according to the book
You can blow seals out or push oil out.
Congrats! I was a Certified Tech, Owned, Operated and sold 3 shops and managed several others.Screw the book. I'm a motorcycle mechanic and a CCS racer.
BTW, all oil levels are checked with the bike upright, with both tires on the ground, not on the side stand or on a rear stand.