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Cuban Croc
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How often are you suppose to change the oil. I think the book says 4000 miles. I am currently running the Yamaha Synthetic (the blood red oil). No problems noted.

-Al
 

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How often are you suppose to change the oil. I think the book says 4000 miles. I am currently running the Yamaha Synthetic (the blood red oil). No problems noted.

-Al
Unfortunately, it is not a simple an answer as some would like to believe.

Follow the ownes manual... if it says 4000, that is it for a STOCK Daily Driver under Normal conditions..

Severe Conditions are differnt, Frequent Sustained High Speed, High Heat Driving, Dusty, Dirty Conditions, Hard Driving, Aftermarket Air Filters or Performance Upgrades are some of the reasons to adjust the mileage interval to 50% of OEM Recommended.

Bob Schultz
 

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Cuban Croc
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Bob, thank you for your reply. Bob, I am a fan of Amsoil due to use to having a diesel. The closest dealer I know is in Emory, Texas. Are there any places near Rockwall, Texas? What Amsoil would you recommend running in my bike? Thank you for your time and concern.


-Al
 

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You can click on our banner ad and find a dealer in our group that can take care of you. We currently have about 18 dealers there and a different one should come up each time you refresh the page. Do a little homework, call a few toll free numbers and se who has the best deal.. Although we are advertising as a group, we all run our own deals. So a little investment in some time for a few calls, may net you some savings.

Bob Schultz
 

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I have recently bought a 08 Yamaha YZF R6. This is my first sportbike to own. I have been looking at a lot of oils most of my friends use honda 10/40 syn. moto. oil. But I have been looking at valvoline`s 4stroke syn. moto oil have any of you guys used it or any other suggestions
 

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I have recently bought a 08 Yamaha YZF R6. This is my first sportbike to own. I have been looking at a lot of oils most of my friends use honda 10/40 syn. moto. oil. But I have been looking at valvoline`s 4stroke syn. moto oil have any of you guys used it or any other suggestions
Valvoline is a Hydro-Cracked Product which means a Highly Refined Petroleum Product, allowed to call itself "synthetic" by law..

Honda now has 2 GN-4 oils I believe, One is a blend, and not a bad oil, the other is supposed to be a synthetic.. too new to have any good info on it..

Personally, If you are not going to run AMSOIL, run the Mobil MX 4T.. it did quite well in the tests..

Bob Schultz
 

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Well I went ahead and tried the valvoline moto oil, and I have noticed a huge differance. The clutch grabs much quicker and the bike just feels so much stronger, so far very impressed.
 

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Guy at the shop told me to do 50-50 dino and synthetic when changing over from Yamalube to synthetic. Can anyone substantiate this?
"Guy at the shop" doesn't know what he is talking about ! That is the problem talking to a mechanic or parts guy that usually has Zero Technical training in Lubricants.

First off, you could have disimilar additive packages that may adversely effect the oils performance and the life of the oil which could cause engine damage. Although most oils today are compatible to the point where you can add in an emergency, it is a standard recommendation from all oil manufacturers not to blend oils not only from a different manufacturer, but even between their own grades and types for the same reason. It is recommended to change ASAP if you do so.

Next, that whole break-in thing is so antiquated, it needs to disappear. The only thing you need to do is run the initial oil to the OEM's Recommended first service interval which is usually 500-1000 miles depending on OEM. This is primarily to remove machining and casting debris from the engine. You can at that time change to ANY Motorcycle Specific oil of your choice.

You can change to synthetic at anytime, but I still like to see the initial sevice performed at the OEM recommended to flush the debris out and I can't see wasting synthetic for that.

Bob Schultz
 

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This thread will be stickied to point all newbie oil questions to

There has been alot of discussion about oils, oil filters, and which applications are best.

Oil Filters known to work on 99-05 R6 and R6S models
Yamaha 3fv-13440-00
Fram ph6017a
Purolator ml16817
Emgo 10-82232
Perf-form j-503
Wix 51358
Napa gold 1358
Carquest 85358
K&n kn303
Mobil1 M1-110
ACDelco # PF2057
OEM Honda #5410-MCJ-000

06+ R6 known filters
M1-108

Most people prefer the Mobil1, K&N, or Purolator filter, and discourage Fram, although any of those will fit.

Here is a great write up about oil filters, and their internals, with pictures.

Motor Oils
If you read the manual you will notice it says to use Non-EC (energy conserving) oils only. This is what you should look for on the back of the oil bottle, it will not say Energy Conserving on the bottom. Because your motorcycle has a wet clutch, and is actually partially submerged in the oil, some say your clutch will slip. Debates rage on as to whether this is a needed concern, or just a marketing ploy playing on your fears, to get you to spend extra money for motorcycle specific oils.

15w50, 10w40, 5w30 and 5w20 are the most common oils used in our bikes. Brands are generally personal preference, but most here will recommend Mobil1. Mobil1's "Extended Life" 15w50 (Red Cap Replacement) motor oil is a favorite of many, and their new "Truck and SUV" 5w30 is also a great oil, free of any friction modifiers (EC rating).

Others have reported no ill-effect from running oils with the EC marking. Personally, I've used EC rated oils for quite a while, in various applications (endurance racing, spring racing, street use), with no problems on a variety (OEM Yamaha, OEM Suzuki, and aftermarket) of clutches.

Do your own experiments to see what works best for you. If you use an EC rated oil, and your clutch slips, it is very simple to change the oil back to a non-EC oil, and have no long term effects.

Synthetic oils provide the best protection, but at a premium price. Whether or not it is an advantage in street riding is up for debate. You can switch to synthetic oil whenever you want. Lets not forget, that many manufacturers use synthetic oil straight from the factory!

Put in 2.5qts with a filter change, and add oil as needed. Generally, you'll need approx 2.8qts with filter change. Be careful not to overfill.

I encourage others input into this thread.

*Thanks to eventnick for the following link. :thumbup
http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_oil.html
How much oil do I need to put in a 2005 R6 with an oil filter change included?

Thanks, Jon
 

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I just switched to full synthetic Repsol 10 40. In reading the thread it seems that as long as the oil light doesn't come on we can use whatever. Yamaha Dealer talked me into it, but I couldn't argue because I didn't really know. I guess the guys at the dealership that race use it exclusively, but I am sure they get a great deal. But I think it will work just fine. Any comments?
 

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CCSGP62AM
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No, that is overfilled... 2.75 qts with a filter according to the book

You can blow seals out or push oil out.

Bob
Screw the book. I'm a motorcycle mechanic and a CCS racer.
I have an '01 R6 and an '08 R6 and have found that if you only put in the "specified" amount of oil in, once the bike is running, the oil will actually be low and may trip the oil light. The only way to get an accurate level is to run the engine for a few minutes then check the level as soon as you turn the engine off. If you wait for a minute for the oil to drain back to the pan, you will get an inaccurate reading. Remenber this, when the engine is running, all the oil gallies in the block, crank, cams and the top-end are full of oil, (up to a pint). When you let it sit, all that oil drains down to the pan. What you need to check for is the RUNNING level...

BTW, all oil levels are checked with the bike upright, with both tires on the ground, not on the side stand or on a rear stand.
 

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Screw the book. I'm a motorcycle mechanic and a CCS racer.

BTW, all oil levels are checked with the bike upright, with both tires on the ground, not on the side stand or on a rear stand.
Congrats! I was a Certified Tech, Owned, Operated and sold 3 shops and managed several others.

The R-6 actually holds 3/4 of a qt of oil that Never drains out unless the engine is disassembled. 2.75 qts IS THE PROPER amount of oil with a filter.

Please show me where there is ANY example by an OEM that the oil level is checked at running level in an engine.

2.75 qts with a filter and you will NOT have a problem



Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 
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