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Oil and Filter for 2007 R6

I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles, and I want to use it in my bike. What is the best Mobil 1 for my R6? Does Mobil 1 make a filter for my R6? If so, what is the number??? Should I go ahead and change the oil, even though I haven't hit the 600 mile mark??? I am not even close to the break-in oil change yet, but I have had the bike for almost two months...I'm really wanting to get a synthetic in it real bad. Will it hurt to change it so soon???


Thanks

Shaun
 

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kybandit78 said:
I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles, and I want to use it in my bike. What is the best Mobil 1 for my R6? Does Mobil 1 make a filter for my R6? If so, what is the number??? Should I go ahead and change the oil, even though I haven't hit the 600 mile mark??? I am not even close to the break-in oil change yet, but I have had the bike for almost two months...I'm really wanting to get a synthetic in it real bad. Will it hurt to change it so soon???


Thanks

Shaun
The first post in this thread will give you the answers to most of your questions...
 

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^^^I was thinking the same thing, mainly because I read through the 28 pages a couple nights ago. Don't be lazy, do the search for yourself. Trust me, there's a lot of meaningful info in this thread. Hey Rob, you can add me to the Shell Rotella T fan club. I took the advice of many folks, to include you, and purchased some the other day. Mike.
 

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mikewills said:
^^^I was thinking the same thing, mainly because I read through the 28 pages a couple nights ago. Don't be lazy, do the search for yourself. Trust me, there's a lot of meaningful info in this thread. Hey Rob, you can add me to the Shell Rotella T fan club. I took the advice of many folks, to include you, and purchased some the other day. Mike.

Well it wouldn't be too bad, but since all the info in the very thread was posted in 2005 with no updates. On the 07 you have to take the shift rod loose to get the filter off. I want to use a Mobil 1 filter... Is it the M1-110 or the M1-108? I have read all 29 pages, and haven't really found that definitive answer. Some say the 110 is too long, some say its not...which is it??? 108 or 110, I just gotta know??? LOL!!! I am going to use the Mobil 1 10w40 full syn for motorcycles...just need a filter. Thanks guys!!!
 

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kybandit78 said:
Well it wouldn't be too bad, but since all the info in the very thread was posted in 2005 with no updates. On the 07 you have to take the shift rod loose to get the filter off. I want to use a Mobil 1 filter... Is it the M1-110 or the M1-108? I have read all 29 pages, and haven't really found that definitive answer. Some say the 110 is too long, some say its not...which is it??? 108 or 110, I just gotta know??? LOL!!! I am going to use the Mobil 1 10w40 full syn for motorcycles...just need a filter. Thanks guys!!!
I read the same regarding the 110 and 108. Sorry, I couldn't be more helpful. GL and let us know what you find. Mike.
 

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I am wondering what KN filter would go on a 06-07 r5? I like how KN filter have a socket already on the filter and would be a lot easier to remove. + i KN and mobil1 filters are among the best in the market. Currently running an mobil1 and mobil1 10w40.
 

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M1-108 w/ Mobil 1 10w40 Fully Syn. If thats what you looking for. M1-110 is a little long for our bikes. and as for K&N i found it as well reading this thread: K&N Kn-303 filter.
Just read the thread or use a search function. its pretty simple but i knew the awnser so i replied to it.
*Replying on this because i received a pm about what filter is for Mobil1
 

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JWalker said:
Well, you don't have to listen to anything I say, but you should. I have several years testing different oils for several companies of both dino & synthetic oils.

Here's an example of what you should know before you purchase another drop of oil made for diesel engines for your high reving motorcycle.

Shell Rotella T is a synthetic formula designed for diesel engines. This also includes advance soot control, which unless your bike is a diesel, is just extra chemicals that you don't want whipping around the crankshaft. Also, most diesels operate at around 1500 RPM's or so, which the oil is also designed for. Plus, the oil is specifically made to work with diesel fuel, which can leak past the rings into the oil on occasion. This is called "diesel wash", which your bike will never have either. I'm pretty confident that Shell didn't invest millions into oil research for a diesel engine by making an oil that's good to 15,500 RPM's.

Shell Rotella T is also made from the lowest quality of synthetic stock, also known as hydrocracked stock. Still better than dino base stock, but not the best base for the formulation of synthetic oil. Ams Oil, for example, is made from a P.O.I. base stock, which is the best available in the industry. It has the best of everything that the synthetic oil industry has to offer. There are a few other companies that use the P.O.I. base stock, which you can find out on your own by doing a little research on line. I'm in no way promoting Ams Oil, but up to now they seem to have the best out there. I can be more specific at a later date after more testing with my bike is complete.

Now, since your bike only holds between 2.5 to 4 quarts of oil, don't you think it's worth a little extra money to get the best out there instead of guessing?

Kinda old post but here is my 2 cents. Besides riding my R6 i own a few Mercedes benz diesels and 2 gasser benz's too. Mercedes Benz recommends Mobil 1 5w40 delvac (or now turbo diesel truck) in ALL engines pre-2000 whether gas or diesel.

As for 'gas specific' engine oils, even oils from mobil 1 recommended for gas engines like extended performance 5w30, 10w30, 15w50 all carry the CF diesel rating that has soot control.

The soot additive DOES NOT DO HARM TO GASOLINE ENGINES. The additive is there to suspened soot from the high sulfur in diesel fuel to protect the engines components from getting soot build up. Now-a-days diesel fuel is rated at 10-15ppm (almost no sulfur) so the additive hardly works in diesel engines anyway (except for farm equipment which uses 500ppm off-road diesel)

The additive doesnt do any physical harm to any of the components, if anything the soot control additive will help extend the drain interval because even gasoline has sulfur and can create soot (although its VERY little if anything)

As for Shell rotella 5w40, its only a group-3 oil so it isnt the best (and the price reflects it) but it will do just fine and factory recommended drain intervals. Although i wouldnt suggest using it for extended drain intervals, my UOA from blackstone came up crappy with the oil in my mercedes. Id suggest Mobil 1's 5w40 for extended drain intervals its a true synthetic.

And as for your high RPM vs diesel RPM. Diesel engine oil has better film strength and shear stability at high temps thats associated with high revving engines like our R6's.

So you have nothing to worry about when using diesel rated oil.
 

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I am going to change my oil tomorrow and use Bosch 3323 extra long oil filter-this is like adding more filter media than a standard Bosch and a tiny bit more oil cap too and trying out Suzuki 10-40 syn Racing 4 stroke engine oil-$6.25 a qt which is the cheapest motorcycle Full syn that i can find. I take no chances with my old bike R6 02 now has 16,000 miles and runs like a bear-I change my oil and filter every 1000 miles:2cents I would stay away from anything with EC on it or simi syn.
 

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influxeous said:
M1-108 w/ Mobil 1 10w40 Fully Syn. If thats what you looking for. M1-110 is a little long for our bikes. and as for K&N i found it as well reading this thread: K&N Kn-303 filter.
Just read the thread or use a search function. its pretty simple but i knew the awnser so i replied to it.
*Replying on this because i received a pm about what filter is for Mobil1

Not sure if there is a difference between the years, but the M1-110 fit my 2000 R6 just fine.
 

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TRhe best oil filter for a 02 is

14610 Purolator pure one-I could never find one, but now its on ebay or amazon-it has around 40% more filtering than anything-they say change the filter more often than the syn oil,but i change both-using suzuki syn oil at $6.25 a qt and changing the oil and filter every 1000 miles. I am trying to keep the bike running as long as I not enogh for a new bike
 

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I was checking out Mobil oil yesterday, and noticed that on the Mobil 5000 there was no energy conserving label on the back...the Mobil extended performance and synthetics had the EC label...Would it hurt to use Mobil 5000 oil for my next oil change or should I stick with Yamalube until the break in period is over??? If I can use the Mobil 5000, instead of Yamalube...that is the way I am gonna go, since I use Mobil in everything.
 

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I was checking out Mobil oil yesterday, and noticed that on the Mobil 5000 there was no energy conserving label on the back...the Mobil extended performance and synthetics had the EC label...Would it hurt to use Mobil 5000 oil for my next oil change or should I stick with Yamalube until the break in period is over??? If I can use the Mobil 5000, instead of Yamalube...that is the way I am gonna go, since I use Mobil in everything.
Yeah you can use it now.

I'm not sure what weights they offer this type of oil in but I would recommend using a 15w40 or 10w40.

I would personally stay away from anything more spread out than 10w40 (like 10w50 or 0w40). Too many polymers in the oil are not good. :(
 

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I've already got my synthetic now...I'm just waiting to get more miles on the bike before I change it. Will using regular Mobil be alright to use, as long as it doesn't have the EC label on back??? Just curious...
 

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Has anyone used the Mobile 1 high mileage 10W40? It doesn't have the energy conserving label on back.
:rollin haha! The guy in your sig is a friend of mine. That pic took place on a DCSB ride. Glad I didn't go on that one.
 

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I don't think using car oil is a good idea because even if the label doesn't say EC on does not mean its perfect for clutches-they may still be some bad stuff in there that you may not notice ,but it is there and the clutch will per not as well- the cheapest motorcycle full sys that I have found is suzuki 10-40 for about $7-6.25 a qt and it does a excellent job-I go up to 12,000rpm or more and my second gear does not slip. Often labels are wrong on these car oil and bad stuff may still be in there, why take chances like this, for a little more dough you can know for sure the oil is made for the bike:blahblahb
 

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Has anyone used the Mobile 1 high mileage 10W40? It doesn't have the energy conserving label on back.

Regardless of Brand, Use an oil with a JASO Rating of at least MA, MA 2 is the best.

There are new Friction Modifiers on the market that are not covered under the Energy Conserving label. This includes Diesel oils.

Oil is the Life Blood of your engine, it doesn't pay to try and save a Buck on your oil and filters.

Bob S ADG
 
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