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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This thread will be stickied to point all newbie oil questions to

There has been alot of discussion about oils, oil filters, and which applications are best.

Oil Filters known to work on 99-05 R6 and R6S models
Yamaha 3fv-13440-00
Fram ph6017a
Purolator ml16817
Emgo 10-82232
Perf-form j-503
Wix 51358
Napa gold 1358
Carquest 85358
K&n kn303
Mobil1 M1-110
ACDelco # PF2057
OEM Honda #5410-MCJ-000

06+ R6 known filters
M1-108

Most people prefer the Mobil1, K&N, or Purolator filter, and discourage Fram, although any of those will fit.

Here is a great write up about oil filters, and their internals, with pictures.

Motor Oils
If you read the manual you will notice it says to use Non-EC (energy conserving) oils only. This is what you should look for on the back of the oil bottle, it will not say Energy Conserving on the bottom. Because your motorcycle has a wet clutch, and is actually partially submerged in the oil, some say your clutch will slip. Debates rage on as to whether this is a needed concern, or just a marketing ploy playing on your fears, to get you to spend extra money for motorcycle specific oils.

15w50, 10w40, 5w30 and 5w20 are the most common oils used in our bikes. Brands are generally personal preference, but most here will recommend Mobil1. Mobil1's "Extended Life" 15w50 (Red Cap Replacement) motor oil is a favorite of many, and their new "Truck and SUV" 5w30 is also a great oil, free of any friction modifiers (EC rating).

Others have reported no ill-effect from running oils with the EC marking. Personally, I've used EC rated oils for quite a while, in various applications (endurance racing, spring racing, street use), with no problems on a variety (OEM Yamaha, OEM Suzuki, and aftermarket) of clutches.

Do your own experiments to see what works best for you. If you use an EC rated oil, and your clutch slips, it is very simple to change the oil back to a non-EC oil, and have no long term effects.

Synthetic oils provide the best protection, but at a premium price. Whether or not it is an advantage in street riding is up for debate. You can switch to synthetic oil whenever you want. Lets not forget, that many manufacturers use synthetic oil straight from the factory!

Put in 2.5qts with a filter change, and add oil as needed. Generally, you'll need approx 2.8qts with filter change. Be careful not to overfill.

I encourage others input into this thread.

*Thanks to eventnick for the following link. :thumbup
http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_oil.html
 

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I went to the local Autozone last weekend to get a filter and everyone here says get the Mobil1 M1-110, but when I looked at the threaded hole it was a different diameter than the one that the computer recommended (STP SMO 17). Does anyone have any ideas? Both are recommended on this reference page.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I dont see STP listed in my post... :umm

Get the mobil1... many people use it, none have problems.
 

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thrak, you should add that oem Honda filters fit on the R6.

part number 5410-MCJ-000

Also the STP SMO 17 has the same 20x1.5mm threads, as the mobil1, and OEM yamaha
 

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Well then I must have had the wrong filter in my hand or something, but the one that said Mobil1-110 and the SMO 17 had an obvious different threaded hole.

Thrak,
In the link that AMZ R6 posted, if you go to section [5] you will see the SMO filter. I appreciate all of your help. I just don't want to get in the middle of the oil change and realize it's the wrong filter. No big deal if it is, I just like things to go as smooth as possible.
 

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Proper Villain said:
Well then I must have had the wrong filter in my hand or something, but the one that said Mobil1-110 and the SMO 17 had an obvious different threaded hole.
I just installed the Mobil 1-110 a few days ago, works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Proper Villain said:
Thrak,
In the link that AMZ R6 posted, if you go to section [5] you will see the SMO filter. I appreciate all of your help. I just don't want to get in the middle of the oil change and realize it's the wrong filter. No big deal if it is, I just like things to go as smooth as possible.
I dont know anything about the SMO filter, sorry. Looking at that page though, the SMO is in a different category than the M1-110... maybe their computer was just wrong. It's happened before...

Just get the Mobil1 M1-110 and I promise you wont have a problem. I've been using it for over a year on 2 different R6's.
 

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ok answer me this: I am running 15-50 mobil 1 in my bike and everytime i buy it my dad tells me its not good for the bike. I mean, his argument is sound...basically that the higher viscosity oil is tougher for the bike to circulate and it wont lubricate as well in this respect, especially when the bike isnt fully warmed up. The oil never gets hot enough where the reccomended oil wont do its job...and if our bikes needed a heavier oil yamaha would have told us...

Since our bikes dont have oil temp guages i was wondering what kind of temps we are dealing with because the more i think about it the less i can justify the 15-50 i am running
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not sure what you're asking... are you asking if the oil ever gets up to temp? Are you asking why you use it? Are you asking why use 15/50? Just look at the price of the oils that are "motospecific" and you'll be able to justify it really quick. In my race bikes I use 5w30, but it has friction modifiers that scare everyone that doesnt use it... I've never ever had a problem in 3+ bikes for thousands of miles *shrug*

The only thing I would agree w/ him on is that you should let the bike warm up before you romp on it, but you should be regardless of the oil you use anyway. What background does your dad have?
 

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My dad has been riding since he was a kid....and thinks that his previous truck engine died quickly because of using the wrong oil. I generally trust him because hes an engineer and stuff...but he can also be stubborn as well. I mean, i am a senior at Umass for engineering and i know that if an oil is too viscous that it wont pump through the engine properly...we had this problem in lab.

What i was questioning were the typical oil temps of the 6 to try and determine how much thicker the 15-50 is at operating temp and if it is indeed too thick or not. I use it mainly because i cant find a good synthetic 10-40 without friction modifiers and i dont wanna waste $$ on motorcycle specific oil.
 

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i cant find a good synthetic 10-40 without friction modifiers
I've got some Shell Rotella T 5w40 (no modifiers)that I am going to use in the next week or so.

$14 for a 5qt. bottle, can't beat that. I've heard good things about it. So I am going to give it a shot. I do wish they would've had it in 10w40 though.
 

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NixR6 said:
My dad has been riding since he was a kid....and thinks that his previous truck engine died quickly because of using the wrong oil. I generally trust him because hes an engineer and stuff...but he can also be stubborn as well. I mean, i am a senior at Umass for engineering and i know that if an oil is too viscous that it wont pump through the engine properly...we had this problem in lab.

What i was questioning were the typical oil temps of the 6 to try and determine how much thicker the 15-50 is at operating temp and if it is indeed too thick or not. I use it mainly because i cant find a good synthetic 10-40 without friction modifiers and i dont wanna waste $$ on motorcycle specific oil.
50 SAE is specced by Yamaha in the user manual that comes with the bike as long as your ambient is sufficiently warm, you're worrying too much.

If u want a non-motocycle specific 40 oil without friction modifiers, with plenty of antiwear and acid neutralising additives, try Mobil Delvac 1 5w40. I've tried quite a few oils most of them bike specific, this is among the few that I like and actually continue to perform well past 2k miles. Yes, it is a diesel oil like the rotalla, but it is 100% suitable for wet clutch and petrol engines, don't let marketing confused you into paying more money for a similar or lesser product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well, the oil is a 50wt at temp, instead of a 40wt.

Instead of Delvac1, you might have an easier time finding Mobil1 "Truck and SUV" oil, which is the exact same as Delvac1 in a different container. Still 5w40.

I think you're worrying too much... :D

If your dad was using something even close to what the manual reccomends, I think you can rule out oil for killing his engine... what happened to his engine btw? Spun bearing? Piston seizure?
 

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Is there a issue with mixing non synthetic and synthetic oil? I have (2) quarts of Mobil 1 as well as various quarts of different type/brands of non syth. I could easily just go grab another quart or two but if I have these I am curious if I should not mix them.
 

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You should have no problem mixing a modern synthetic with dinosaur oil...they are completely compatible. If its an older synthetic i wouldnt...the older ones arent compatible (as in when synthetic first came out). I was just going over various oil threads and i am switching to a 5w-40...the 15-50 is just way to thick for where i live (MA)...when i start the bike up when its in the 40's the engine is seeing a VERY viscous oil and that cant be good...although once warmed up its fine its still not good on start-up. Plus 5w40 is plenty thick enough for the 6...i guess i kinda answered my own question!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ah.. Nix, if I had known you were in such a cold climate, I would've said 15w50 might be too thick... sorry I didnt even notice it. Get the "Truck and suv" Mobil1.. its friction modifier free so you should enjoy it.
 
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