are the tires ballanced?
sloppy steering after 70 series
i put on PP this week and got to front last night, i went for a ride today and the steering feels sloppy, i didnt shim the rear yet could that be why?
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If you went from a 60 to a 70-series profile front tire and didn't adjust your geometry to account for the taller tire, then yes, you would be having a detrimental effect on the bikes handling.
Shim the rear or raise the forks in the triples to account for the new profile and try riding it again.
Shim the rear or raise the forks in the triples to account for the new profile and try riding it again.
thats what i figured cuz once its leaning its fuckin planted and feels awesome. i didnt get a chance to shim it cuz i dont have jack stands
hwo can you check if the forks have been raised/lowed?
i ask becuase i have a set of PP 60's they were on when ig ot the bike. the person i bought it off no longer is around.
i ask becuase i have a set of PP 60's they were on when ig ot the bike. the person i bought it off no longer is around.
how far the forks stick out from the top of the yokes^
ya, if they're flush (i.e. no fork tube showing), then the front hasn't been dropped (i.e. stock height).bballman01 said:how far the forks stick out from the top of the yokes^
if what youre describing is that the bike is slower to turn (lean) then yes its from not changing the geometry..
Did you lower the triples, if not that would cause it
shim the rear, leave the triples be.
why not raise the forks?eventnick said:shim the rear, leave the triples be.
From the Almighty Thrak
It also gives you added ground clearance, its really really easy to do, easy to change and experiment with and you dont have to make sure that each fork is 100% the same which is a pain in the ass.
__________________You're wrong... dropping the forks *might* be easier, but bringing the rear up will not only increase mid-corner stability, but it will also be just as flickable.
Dropping the forks 8-10mm kills your front end feedback, and decreases stability...
It also gives you added ground clearance, its really really easy to do, easy to change and experiment with and you dont have to make sure that each fork is 100% the same which is a pain in the ass.
Ok, so I understand that it adds ground clearance. Is that really an issue with our bikes? At what point does one need more ground clearance? Will it help clearance when leaned over? How close does one have to be on the edge of traction to needing the small amount that will be added when leaned (because it'll be a fraction of what is added when upright, right?)?eventnick said:From the Almighty Thrak
__________________You're wrong... dropping the forks *might* be easier, but bringing the rear up will not only increase mid-corner stability, but it will also be just as flickable.
Dropping the forks 8-10mm kills your front end feedback, and decreases stability...
It also gives you added ground clearance, its really really easy to do, easy to change and experiment with and you dont have to make sure that each fork is 100% the same which is a pain in the ass.
I can see how it might be a PITA to adjust the forks the exact same, but then again, I have not tried it yet, so maybe that is a personal thing. I can see how it is probably easier to shim the rear than adjust the forks, too.
Here is what I don't understand:
By using a taller tire, you're adding more trail to the bike, which makes turn-in slower, but increases feel and stability when leaned over (according to the Max McAllister -- "Suspension for Mortals" -- Traxxion Dynamics). The idea of raising the rear or dropping the front is to return the trail to near stock, right? Now, stability during leaning is greater with more trail.
So if both methods (shimming the rear and raising the forks) both have the same effect or reducing trail back to near stock, how does shimming the rear provide more stability mid-turn than raising the forks (assuming both result in same trail)?
Please help me understand all this suspension stuff!
EDIT: It would seem that there is more finite adjustability with the forks than shims in the rear. Maybe that is only necessary when you're trying to tune the bike as a racer should, but it would seem easier to make smaller adjustments at the front than with shims.
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