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rear axle nut: forward or backward thread?

3888 Views 19 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  serpentracer
So I got a 32mm impact socket and was pleased that I couldn't get the steering stem nut off by hand yet the impact driver got it off in a pinch. That thing was expensive though, $15 for a socket - wow.


Then I moved to removing the rear wheel and, well, no go. The 32mm nut just won't give in. I'm going to get some big-ass breaker bar (spendy!) and sit someone really heavy on the bike to try to get it off, but I need to make sure the thread is standard, not reverse. Is it? How about the front axle? It's a 18mm hex if I measured it right, will go get one today.

Oh, and what about the front sprocket nut? It's also 32mm, is it reverse thread? There's so little thread sticking out that it's hard to tell for all of these cases.
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The rear axle is standard thread. No sure about the front but I'm sure someone will chime in shortly. If you have a pipe that will fit around your socket wrench you can also use that, that's what I use and is also free!
Well, I do have a pipe but the whole thing just becomes too springy and it looks like the wrench will simply break.

Maybe a 32mm socket for a 1/2 inch driver is not a good idea after all, sholda gotten one for a 3/4 inch driver and a braker bar in that size. Ugh. Money seem to be flying out of my pocket with these tools - and that's just to remove the freaking wheel!

Oh well. At least that's for mounting some race take-offs - full set with good thread left for $120 is saving me a few hundred on rubber right there.

rice_smuggler said:
The rear axle is standard thread.
Oh yea, thanks for the information, I'm releived that at least I wasn't tightening it even more :)

But damn, I leaned on it so well the front wheel wanted to get off the ground and still no go.
I used a pipe that was about 4 ft. long, leverage is your friend.
rice_smuggler said:
I used a pipe that was about 4 ft. long, leverage is your friend.

What size wrench did you have - I mean, the square piece that goes into the socket?
I use a 3/8" ratchet with a 1/2" adapter onto a 1/2" socket.
rice_smuggler said:
I use a 3/8" ratchet with a 1/2" adapter onto a 1/2" socket.
Wow, and it didn't break from a 4' pipe pulling it. I gotta get brave with my tools :)
The front sprocket nut, front axel nut and rear axel nut are all standard thread. Someone must have really torqued the rear axel nut, I've never had a problem getting mine off with moderate force. In fact, I usually just use my 1/2 ratchet and don't even bother with using my breaker bar.
you do realize there is a wrench for your rear axle bolt in the tool kit dont you?
and you stick the tube that is smashed on one end over the wrench for a longer handle.
on my 03 the front is a 27 mm.
serpentracer said:
you do realize there is a wrench for your rear axle bolt in the tool kit dont you?
and you stick the tube that is smashed on one end over the wrench for a longer handle.
on my 03 the front is a 27 mm.

There's no such a thing as "your tool kit" when you buy a used race bike :) There were some things in there like a 8/10/12 open-end wrenches and a spark plug extractor but that's about it.

And besides, I don't expect a crap tin tool out of a tool kit to actually work better than an impact wrench, which in turn wasn't able to undo the nut.
dakh said:
There's no such a thing as "your tool kit" when you buy a used race bike :) There were some things in there like a 8/10/12 open-end wrenches and a spark plug extractor but that's about it.

And besides, I don't expect a crap tin tool out of a tool kit to actually work better than an impact wrench, which in turn wasn't able to undo the nut.
its actally about 3/16 of an inch thick and I have used it many times. btw get a real impact gun or start working out puss:p
serpentracer said:
its actally about 3/16 of an inch thick and I have used it many times. btw get a real impact gun or start working out puss:p

This one's pretty good huh? Haven't done stuff this dumb in a while.


So I went and got a big-ass breaker bar during lunchtime. Came home and of course the bike is on my way from the garage to the house, so I start fiddling with stuff without even changing clothes. Yeah, I have the tool kit wrench. And yeah, I got the nut moving with it right away. So all this running around and spending time and money on sockets and bars and wrenches is just that, I coulda done it all without leaving my garage at all. Good lesson.

The kit wrench actually IS better than a socket with a driver. It's better because it allows you to apply force on the same plane with the nut, while the socket/breaker bar combo offsetts the plane by the socket length plus part of the bar that sticks out.

Here's the poor thing with the wheels off:






In other developments: the damn ignition key is also putting up a good fight. I took the triple-clamp off and dremeled some slots for a flat screwdriver in those blind screws. And then proceeded to break a very big and sturdy half-inch screwdriver bit while trying to scew out those bastards. So it looks like I'll have to dremel their heads out and then drill them out of the triple-clamp. Ugh. The blind screws that hold the whole ignition lock cylinder together (there are 4 of them) look even more intimidating 'cause they're small and are hidden in recessions. Damn. If not for this ignition mess I'd be taking the bike out for the first time tomorrow.
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serpentracer said:
btw get a real impact gun or start working out puss:p

Let's step outside and I'll show ya who's in shape and who's not :devilwink :)
Off topic: I thought the steering stem was a 36mm nut?

As for the rear wheel, the axle should be tq to somewhere around 80ft/lbs.. That is a good bit of force being used to lift up the rear end w/o anything pushing the bike down. I use a breaker bar for the simple fact that i can loosen the nut w/o lifting the bike off the rear stand, unlike when i use a ratchet.
You need a 19 mm allen wrench to remove your front axle.

Edit: I guess you already figured that out...
FrkyMnky1487 said:
Off topic: I thought the steering stem was a 36mm nut?
Looks like on a 1st gen it's 32 and on later ones it's 36. Or my bike has a non-stock nut to accomodate the steering damper. But I think a 36 would still fit in there.
YamRZ350 said:
You need a 19 mm allen wrench to remove your front axle.

Edit: I guess you already figured that out...
no you dont, just thread the bolt in a few turns and tap it out with a mallot or hammer. it should slide out very easily. at least thats how I have always done it.
serpentracer said:
no you dont, just thread the bolt in a few turns and tap it out with a mallot or hammer. it should slide out very easily. at least thats how I have always done it.
The 99-02s the fork tubes are actually threaded so you cannot just tap it out.
I can't believe nobody noticed how my racheting strap that the bike is hanging off of is color-matched to the bike!

Oh my, the shop I went to to mount tires charges $37 PER TIRE to mout them, plus $4 to dispose. Of course I'm too lazy to turn around and walk away, but $80 for changing two tires??? Are they way out of line or is that normal? Note that this does NOT include taking wheels off the bike, I dropped off the wheels/tires and all they need to do is unmount, mount and balance. :furious
ehh yes that is above normal for my neck of the woods. its usually 20 if you have a tire on the rim. 12 if its tireless. also bringing them the rim.
more if they remove it of corse
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