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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have battery power I just checke dit with a multimeter.

when I turn the key.. NOTHING, no fuel pump, no lights, nothing.

can someone point me where to start my troubleshooting?

Regards,
E.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
fuses are all ok

only thing I can think of is that I changed the stator cover and could'Ve fu*ked something with that sensor in there.

I still haven't filled th ebike with oil, but I can'T think of why it would matter.

I should at least get the pump sound and the horn, lights, etc, no?

Regards,
E.
 

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everything to your battery is hooked up right, correct?

I don't know much about this, but that is weird... seems like you should have power like you said. I'm sure someone will reply shortly with a better post. Hope it's something simple for you!


Have you tried doing a search as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
they are,

this morning I had time to unplug the first plug after the battery if you follow the red cable (there is one fuse on each side of that plug). I have power on both "lower" pins

I'll print the wiring schematics and see where I'm supposed to have "live" at the itgnition. I'm guessing something got damaged in the fron near the ignition when I removed my front end or something.

because veen if my oil pump cover (which has a sensor in it) was damaged when i replaced it, it wouldn't stop the bike from having the horn work or something when I turn the key at "on".

I'm speechless about this one heheh

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E.
 

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If you have the 99-02 model then I would take a look at the ignition wire coupling on the right hand (exhaust side) of the the bike right under the gas tank to see if it is melted. It happened to me and it happened while the bike was parked. Parked it working then came back and it was totally dead. The coupling was melted and two main wires shorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll check that tonight, altough, the ignition worked fine last time and biek was already cooled off when I checked.

and it's not the kill switch because it would not change anything to the horn or lights working, and I would hear the pump work (when you turn the ignition you can hear "tictictic")

E.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am reading the manuala nd there is good troubleshooting guides for electrical problems, I'll run them tonight it's very well explained (which switch terminals shoudl have continuity, etc)

I'll let you know as soon as I find out.

E.
 

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catalyst said:
If you have the 99-02 model then I would take a look at the ignition wire coupling on the right hand (exhaust side) of the the bike right under the gas tank to see if it is melted. It happened to me and it happened while the bike was parked. Parked it working then came back and it was totally dead. The coupling was melted and two main wires shorted out.
:withstupi
 

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You check all of your connections (such as the main switch wire) under your tank on the right side. Make sure those are all plugged in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've been working on this for like 4h in a row now.. damnit.

yeah checked the plugs, all fine... I checked also the ignition switch from the main switch connector (under tank) and when I turn the key there is continuity so the ignition works... but when I turn the key.. NOTHING, no light in the dash, no fuel pump, dead, totally dead.

I have 12.64 volts in the battery, I can't beleive nothing would work becauwe I'm under 12.8 volts??? I had an old battery and even if it was almost dead I was still able to get the lights in the dash wrking (but not enough juice to start the engine)...

the only thing left to do is remove the oil pump cover that i just installed and see if there is a short or something in the wires for that sensor in there... I mean I did not change anything since last week aside from replacing the cover... I can'T really see anything else that could be wrong.

I'm totally pissed right now. Stupid bike.

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E.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
check them twice, and thenw ith multimeter

the owner's manual in this section does not have at all the same plugs/wiring diagrams.

the one here says the ignition switch has 3 positions (On Off and P (lights)) - might be european one, I wonder no one noticed this.. our switches only has one off and the park..

the real one is this one: http://www.yzfr6.net/manual/r6_manual_wiring.pdf

now with this I can see where the power is supposed ot go (when the key is not in) to see if the positive side gives the juice.. then if yes put the key in and find out which ground/return is failing.

with this graphin hand I'm now totally confident to pinpoint the problem.

Regards,
E.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
FIXED!!!!

it was indeed the main switch connector. Not fried but oxydated and contact wasn't good.

Damn it was a mess finding it!

without the correct wirin diagram (the one in the manual is not the right one for mine) I would've had a hard time finding it.

thanks for your pointers guys!

E.
 

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:umm I thought you said you checked that with a test light. Maybe i am just making stuff up, but i dont feel like going back to re read
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yes, I checked the switch, meaning that the connection was made when I turned the key.

Then yesterday when checked the current returning (on the battery side) when the plug was connected, it worked because I had "scrubbed" the pins when doing the previous tests.

first time I did not have the correct wiring diagram so I could not test anything aside from the fact that the ignition key was actually working.

Regards,
E.
 

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So are you saying that your connecter from underneath your gas tank, that dealt with the main switch was oxydated? The reason i ask is because im having sortof the same problem, i turn the switch and the fuel pump activates, but when i try to start it, it won't.
 
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