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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought the bike a few weeks ago, the bike is originally from NY and has a M4 hi-mount slip on, and jet kit installed already...I knew the bike was running a little rich, but I didn't care because I am a brand new rider, so less power wasn't a downfall for me at the time, but now I am getting better at riding, and I can really notice the bike lacks in "snappiness"...I mean, if I stand behind the exhaust, droplets of fuel are hitting me in the face :)

Where can I get a jet-kit for it? Any suggestions in size??

01 R6
Located at sea level (Panama City, FL)

thanks :thumbup
 

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You have a jet kit for it... just need to tune it.

What jet kit is in there? What jets are in there? What are the needles set at? A/F screws?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You have a jet kit for it... just need to tune it.

What jet kit is in there? What jets are in there? What are the needles set at? A/F screws?
Its a dynojet jet kit, and I don't know where the needles are set at...
 

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Well, you have to take them apart and figure out how its setup first before we can give you any clues to tune it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I plan on doing that this w/e....I will let you guys know
 

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You could probably just call Ivan's and see what recommended starting setup would be. If nothing else, sounds like your mains are several sizes too big (like someone put air pilots in or something). That way you could get parts ordered and get yourself tons closer, as it's really hard to tweak jetting when it's really far out.
 

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fjman said:
You could probably just call Ivan's and see what recommended starting setup would be. If nothing else, sounds like your mains are several sizes too big (like someone put air pilots in or something). That way you could get parts ordered and get yourself tons closer, as it's really hard to tweak jetting when it's really far out.

He has a dynojet kit, so his numbers will be all messed up. Besides, why would Ivan give him any help when he has a Dynojet kit?

You plug up air passages in the carbs when you install a dynojet kit, so its all skewed.
 

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So you buy real jets, which sound like they're going to be required anyhow.

Most good tuners will be really great about telling you recommended setups even when you're not using their stuff: it makes them get business, as a rule. For example, factorypro has always answered stuff when I've asked them questions... and when it turns out that I need a <xx> jet or tool, I'm already on the phone and they stock those...

If I remember right, the passages plugged alter the response time of the slides? That'll throw throttle response off somewhat, but having the correct main, pilots, air jets, and fuel height will help get him into the ballpark.

Sounds to me like someone completely screwed the pooch when they jetted it originally, so getting to a decent baseline is important. Even with the needles set completely screwy, it should be possible to get a smooth idle and good top end (on the main, natch) power. Yes, the midrange/part throttle may be off, and response may be poor... but good luck tweaking that if the mains are too far out of whack.

Dunno, he wanted advice. It's not like you can "adjust" main jet--you replace it. Therefore, who cares what's in there?
 

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Because usually, with dynojet, the main jet size is 7.5 - 10 sizes LOWER than what you'd normally put in there.

They make you plug air passages (the little passages that are on the airbox side, and go to the bowl), AND drill out the slides... on R6's the dynojet jet kit is really screwy.

His main jet might be right.. who knows? Maybe he doesnt really have a dynojet kit... we wont know until he tells us what main jet is in there.

For all we know, it was jetted perfect when it was up north. Now that he's in FLA though, its off.

I'm not really trying to argue with you, but unless you've put a dynojet kit in an R6, and tuned it, you dont really understand how messed up it is compared to Factoty Pro and Ivans... or even just buying jets and shimming the needles w/o a "kit".
 

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No, I'm not understanding, I'm afraid.

The bike runs like shit now. So it's pretty far out.

So, put the screw in bits that should be close. The needle shape and height will still be out, and the slide venting and spring may be crazy as well.

What do you lose? I mean really... Dynojet mains are just as good as anything else, but their numbering system is retarded. However, if you can get the right mains, it doesn't actually matter what the number is stamped into them, you know?

A bike jetted perfectly or even remotely close in one place is unlikely to be extremely far off in another place, unless you commute to the dead sea or the like.

I'll happily argue with you. Give me any needles you want, and let me play with main and pilot sizing, and i'll get a bike that can at least idle cleanly and scream at WOT every time. The needles, slides, and springs, (unless the springs are stupidly too stiff, which is unlikely) have zero input to those parts of the powerband.

And without having the mains properly chosen, it's on the far side of impossible to get the needles right. I've always tuned from WOT down, and it works really well. You get proper plug readings on a chop at WOT, then you do it at 70% or so throttle (perfect to get on the needle's mid, but if you want a perfect needle, go buy a dyno, you'll need it).... 10% throttle I set the float height... on some bikes it can vary a LOT (~6mm on some mikuni's!)... at idle, play with the screws.

Every bike I've ever played with has been the same, honestly. If the mains were wrong, the bike never got right. Once the mains are good, you start working down from WOT conditions, until you nail things down.
 

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fjman said:
A bike jetted perfectly or even remotely close in one place is unlikely to be extremely far off in another place, unless you commute to the dead sea or the like.
So you missed the part where he moved from NY (well above sea level), to Panama City (sea level)?
 

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and I can really notice the bike lacks in "snappiness"...I mean, if I stand behind the exhaust, droplets of fuel are hitting me in the face
Going from well above sea level to sea level means that the air becomes slightly more dense... and the bike will need enriching. Sounds like it's quite a bit too rich already though, if it's passing unburnt fuel through.

Elevation change shouldn't make quite that big of a difference, I'm afraid. I wonder however if it's more likely that it was damaged in shipping a bit. For example, a slide stuck in the up position, a float tang bent some, or a choke sticking. Carbs are pretty delicate beasts.
 

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Sorry, I know this is old, but I have been on a never ending search to find enough info to figure out whether or not it's even possible to replace my dynojet kit. My bike is in pieces and my carbs are off but I havent taken them apart yet because I havent figured out if I should even bother, my bike is tuned pretty well with the dynojet but if what people say is true, an Ivans will do me a lot more good. The slides are drilled out with the dynojet kit? Will I have to replace the slides if I get an Ivans? Can I unplug the passages? I really really need to know what is going on with this stuff.
 

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:umm Thrak and fjman, your both right. We need to know what has he got now and start from there. We don't realy know if his bike is running rich do we?

It does seem that FJman knows a little more about carbs than thrak.
 
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