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well im about to the my first oil change at 559 miles. i decided to go with mobil1 1-110 but not sure on what oil i should get.. i live in south cali so im not to worried about the weather. sorry for being such a noob i did the search but still dont understand. plus i cant find the filter anywhere
 

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well im about to the my first oil change at 559 miles. i decided to go with mobil1 1-110 but not sure on what oil i should get.. i live in south cali so im not to worried about the weather. sorry for being such a noob i did the search but still dont understand. plus i cant find the filter anywhere
This is gonna be a long one, sorry guys. I know all this info can be searched, but here it is.

For the first couple of oil changes, you should use NON-SYNTHETIC oil. It helps parts polish more quickly (a little more friction than synthetic) and it's cheaper (you're gonna change it at least twice before you hit 1,000 miles). I used Golden Spectro, it's like 3 bucks a quart. After you have 1,000 miles on it, you can use any oil you want. Now, here's the long part.

Which oil/filter to use is a never-ending argument. Bottom line is this: If you change the oil regularly, any motorcycle oil of factory-recommended viscosity and SAE rating will perform just fine. You can spend 10 bucks a quart on super-slick "race oil" and supposedly squeeze out that last 0.5 hp "trapped by friction", but unless you race competitively, spend 90% of your ride time with the engine within 3k rpm of the redline, and you know your bike well enough to actually feel an extra 0.5 hp, it's not gonna do you a damn bit of good.

I use Castrol Act-EVO oil that I get from Cycle Gear, it's a 10W40 semi-synthetic oil and it's 4 bucks a quart instead of 8 or 10. I use K&N oil filters because that's all Cycle Gear had except for Fram, and Fram is crap. You couldn't pay me to use Fram filters.

Do you need synthetic oil? No. Will it help the engine last longer? Possibly, but no one has any real proof of that. Is there any reason a non-synthetic or semi-synthetic oil will hurt your engine? None whatsoever provided it's the correct viscosity/SAE rating.
 

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Dragraces too much
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You should use OIL.

Does it matter what kind? No, not really. Stop, think, what kind of wear are you seeing? To be honest, you'll see wear when you start up, cold. Synthetic will prevent that to a small degree, becuase it will be there (won't bleed down) compared to dino oil.


There's motors that have gone a million plus miles on dino. There's motors that have blown up under 10k miles, irrespective of oil.

Does treating it well mean more than using certain oil? maybe.
 

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a.k.a LiquidR1
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um what wrong with fram. pleas enlighten. all ive ever used is fram and no problems. 17,000 miles on my 03 with a fram and 8900 on my 05 with a fram. so if somethings wrong with fram pleas tell.
 

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Why did you wait so long to change the oil?


I say change it with whatever you want... its fine to change to synthetic now if you want, no problems. Your bike is WAY broken in already.
 

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if you plan on keeping this bike for a long time I would recommend conventional oil. Synthetics eat up gaskets due to all the additives they use. This world dealt with conventional oil for a long time without synthetics....No problems as long as you due your scheduled change. As for the filter. Many people might disagree with me but Yamaha designed their oil filters for there bikes. Go with Factory Yamaha parts man. Unless you are doing track time and need a place to safetywire your oil filter then you will need the k+N. Hope this helps
 

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phat_r6 said:
if you plan on keeping this bike for a long time I would recommend conventional oil. Synthetics eat up gaskets due to all the additives they use.
:lol Thats not true... hahaha... synthetic eat gaskets huh? hahahaha.... :spit
 

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Thrak said:
:lol Thats not true... hahaha... synthetic eat gaskets huh? hahahaha.... :spit
I guess motorcycle magazine lie's to me as that is what they have quoted. I will look for the issue if i still have it...
 

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ALWAYS use conventional oil during breakin period... and even though most new bikes don't even have breakins I would still err on the side of caution and go to 3k miles and then switch to synthetic... you are better off in the first 3k miles changing your oil at 1k intervals than changing to synthetic I promise you.... You will have plenty of engine life down the road to run synthetic and the factory fill on these bikes is conventional oil and many people run it the whole life of the bike so it cant be too bad...

I bought my bike (05) brand new about 3 months ago.... dealership did the first service at 700 miles and the oil came out nasty and gritty, replaced with dino... I did my second oil change at 2100 miles, oil once again came out extremely gritty and nasty... at 3k miles I'm going to get 2 oil filters and 3quarts of dino and 3 quarts of either mobil 1 or amsoil (still undecided) and going to do an oil change with the dino oil as a flush and then replace the filter again and fill with the synthetic...

I think this is a great way to go about it... but you have to consider yamaha recomends the first change at 600 i think it was (or was it even 500?) and then the next change not until 4,000 miles? I've already changed twice in half this interval and the oil come out with much more contaminants then i would ever have let stay in my crank case...

on the flip side there is possibly some evidence that changing oil too much can possibly be harmful but this hasn't been fully researched and I think that conventional wisdom that it's better to change it too much than not enough is better...

the reason you should use dino during breakin has been discussed time and time again and almost all mechanics will tell you to wait to switch to synthetic til around 3-6k miles... but I definantly wouldnt try it on my engine less than 3k.

Very few cars (bmw, ferrari, mercedes, etc. ) and I don't know of any bikes come factory filled with synthetic... but of course many people run synthetic after the fact... hope I didn't just write all this for nothing...
 

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and yes fram filters are junk... I'm not sure if they make em for our bikes but the best filters I have seen are made also by Mobil 1... if they dont make one for the R6 then i'd stick with OEM yamaha filters...
 

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minig0d said:
ALWAYS use conventional oil during breakin period... and even though most new bikes don't even have breakins I would still err on the side of caution and go to 3k miles and then switch to synthetic... you are better off in the first 3k miles changing your oil at 1k intervals than changing to synthetic I promise you.... You will have plenty of engine life down the road to run synthetic and the factory fill on these bikes is conventional oil and many people run it the whole life of the bike so it cant be too bad...
Have you ever opened an engine after breaking it in to see what it looks like?

I bought my bike (05) brand new about 3 months ago.... dealership did the first service at 700 miles and the oil came out nasty and gritty, replaced with dino... I did my second oil change at 2100 miles, oil once again came out extremely gritty and nasty... at 3k miles I'm going to get 2 oil filters and 3quarts of dino and 3 quarts of either mobil 1 or amsoil (still undecided) and going to do an oil change with the dino oil as a flush and then replace the filter again and fill with the synthetic...
You should've changed your oil much sooner than 700mi.

And doing that "flush" you're talking about is just a big ole waste of money.

I think this is a great way to go about it... but you have to consider yamaha recomends the first change at 600 i think it was (or was it even 500?) and then the next change not until 4,000 miles? I've already changed twice in half this interval and the oil come out with much more contaminants then i would ever have let stay in my crank case...
You changed it at 700. Imagine all that flying around in there for *gasp!!* 100miles MORE than Yamaha recommends!! THE HORROR!!

the reason you should use dino during breakin has been discussed time and time again and almost all mechanics will tell you to wait to switch to synthetic til around 3-6k miles... but I definantly wouldnt try it on my engine less than 3k.
Why? Because thats what you've been told?? Why not do your own research... I doubt "almost all mechanics" have torn down an engine to see how the cylinders have been polished, or do compression/leak down tests to see how the rings have seated.

You dont have a clue....




Look, original poster dude, use whatever oil you want. The only time you have to worry about synthetics "eating away gaskets" is in motors that are really old, or have really high mileage and have always used dino oil. THEN yes, synthetic may cause oil leaks, but only because it is CLEANING away the crap the conventional oil left behind after years of use. On your new motor, with new everything, there is nothing to worry about.
 

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The color of your oil is also a poor indicator of whether or not it needs to be replaced.

As Thrak mentioned todays oils actively clean your engine breaking up and gunk that might collect and absorbing it. You'll find the color of your oil to be drastically darker/dirtier looking after only a short period of time, compared to when you put it in. The color does not tell all though, and although after only a few hundred miles your oil may look dirty, it's viscocity and protective ability is still top notch.

Also like Thrak said there's A LOT of oil myths out there, and no two ppl you talk to will tell you the same thing. The best thing to do is go out and figure it out for yourself as best you can, and keep peoples opinions out of it. There's a lot of junk science thrown around about why an oil type/weight/barnd is better.
 

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By the way there is .7qts of dirty oil in the oil pump,so i drained that out too when i did a oil change. I would recomend not starting the engine right off the bat, turn the engine over a few times to get the oil moved around. I plan on getting 50,000 miles or more out of my engine, I don't buy a brand new bike because i pick up a mommys boy bike after the kids mother say-I don't want you riding a motercycle save at least $2,000 that way:2cents I use full syn oil because it is better, you can tell when you start the engine-not as much black shit comes out when you use syn oil- three cents
 

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MMMMMOOOOOTUL makes my motor shift smoooooother. The more you change the oil the better.

Bikes aren't cars, and the R6 has a lazy oil change timeline. On my CRF i have to change the oil on a weekly basis and the filter every other week, but that's the cost of being a savage...
 

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Thrak said:
Look, original poster dude, use whatever oil you want. The only time you have to worry about synthetics "eating away gaskets" is in motors that are really old, or have really high mileage and have always used dino oil. THEN yes, synthetic may cause oil leaks, but only because it is CLEANING away the crap the conventional oil left behind after years of use. On your new motor, with new everything, there is nothing to worry about.

+1

This dude knows what he's talking about.
 

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i wonder why bimmers come with synthetic oil now, and they are some of the better german cars...

like was said before, use any decent oil, if youre worried about what filter use the yamaha one (many of the r6mn use the mobil m110, m108 is the correct size)... i would use dino oil for one more change if you have so few miles, its cheap anyway
 

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I use EFL 10-50w sny and k+N filter, the oil is made for wet trans and the oil should be good year round, you got 10 weight when its cold and 50 wieght when its hot- perfect for the r6, I pay 40$ for 4L of ELF and the k+N filter has a nut on top so you can torque the filter on perfect, and dain the oil pump oil out too when you change oil. I would change the oil after about 1200 miles or so.:2cents
 

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ptirmal said:
i wonder why bimmers come with synthetic oil now, and they are some of the better german cars...
Not just German cars. The corvette has been coming out of the factory with M1 as well as some Japanese sports cars.

Manufacturing tolerances are much tighter and modern synthetics are much better than when the old "change your oil every 3k miles" crap came out. I run 8-10k miles between oil changes in my 4runner (Castrol SynTec 5w30) and did 7k intervals in my M3 but changed the filter every 3.5k miles.

I use SynTec 5w40 (non-EC) in my bike with a M1-110 filter but I have 2 cases Mobil1 0w40 that I'll be using next season. I change every 2k miles but I think I might draw it out to 3k.
 
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