the clip ons were put under the triple and the forks were lowered, check for a 70 series tire, if its a 60 then you will be in for one sketchy ride.
it took only 3 days of kissing to awake this beast
Not sure if it was only kissing, maybe some of the penetration was a bit deeper - but yeeehaaa, it runs!
(BTW this means I will keep bugging you guys with questions even more now!)
Here's the story:
Got the float chamber fuel level checked. Pretty easy job, get a clear piece of tubing, attach to that strange protrusion next to the plug screw (and I was wondering what the heck those two wacky sticks are doin' down there), unscrew the plug and check the fuel level in the tube. Repeat for each carb.
Of course, the drain plug screws are a btich to get at, but as with carb clamp a small ratchet and a 3mm allen bit make the job so much easier. Until you drop the bit down into the engine and have to fish it out of the starter well, of course
Overall, half an hour job if you alreay have the airbox off. And luckily all floats were just perfect on this bike.
So I cleand everything again and triple-checked all the fuel-related stuff. Rolled the bike out of the basement and into the garage, hooked it up to the car anticipating a long cranking session. Ignition is still broken so hot-wired it again. Push the starter button with some trepidation and again it does the same damn thing - catches a little bit but doesn't start. For maybe half a minute, and then WOOHOO it just started and settled into a perfect, consistent ~1K RPM idle. So I let it rumble a bit then crack the throttle open a bit. It died right away, without any increase of RPM at all. Started it back up, went away to talk on the phone. Came back and it's not running. Probably heated up and died. So started it again, idles real well. Hit gas - revs go up just ever so slightly then it's dead again. [email protected]#k, vaccuum leak somewhere or some such!
Ok, start it again and feeeather the throttle just a tiny bit up. Ok, added maybe 100RMP and didn't die. Then another 100. Then another. Then I got tired and just nailed it. It reved past 8K and promply died again, but hey that's progress! Started it again and yep - revs to red line (poor neighbors!) just fine, idle is good, everything just works!
So it looks like something was still a bit gummed up down there and I cleand it enough to get the bike started, but not enough for it to run well. Then it probably just cleand out by itself while the bike was running.
A few things I've learned:
1. The bike starts just fine without the whole front cluster plugged in. No lights, no tach, no nothing - still starts! Of course I have it hot-wired via the main plug 'cause ignition key is still not cooperating, and the bike is not stock so I'm not sure if it will work on a bone stock bike that was started with a key. But if you're out there in the boonies and your battery is almost dead it might be a good idea to just disconnect that big white plug below the fairing stay. My battery is pretty much dead, but it was able to start the bike just fine without all that other junk (lights, instruments, etc). Plug that all back in and there's not enough juice to even crank the bike.
2. Well, hot-wiring via main plug works. You gotta have a fairly thick wire fot two of those contacts though - I did it with a slightly more wimpy wire than what's in the bike and that wire got pretty hot just from turning the bike on so I had to re-do the crimping with a better wire.
What do racers who strip away the ignition use as the ignition switch? I'll try to get to dremeling away the lock cylinder tomorrow but it just doesn't look like a few hours of work.
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Looks pretty mean with no plastics Note how the fork sticks out by over an inch from the triple-clamp, is that how they came stock or it's lowered?
(BTW this means I will keep bugging you guys with questions even more now!)
Here's the story:
Got the float chamber fuel level checked. Pretty easy job, get a clear piece of tubing, attach to that strange protrusion next to the plug screw (and I was wondering what the heck those two wacky sticks are doin' down there), unscrew the plug and check the fuel level in the tube. Repeat for each carb.
Of course, the drain plug screws are a btich to get at, but as with carb clamp a small ratchet and a 3mm allen bit make the job so much easier. Until you drop the bit down into the engine and have to fish it out of the starter well, of course
Overall, half an hour job if you alreay have the airbox off. And luckily all floats were just perfect on this bike.
So I cleand everything again and triple-checked all the fuel-related stuff. Rolled the bike out of the basement and into the garage, hooked it up to the car anticipating a long cranking session. Ignition is still broken so hot-wired it again. Push the starter button with some trepidation and again it does the same damn thing - catches a little bit but doesn't start. For maybe half a minute, and then WOOHOO it just started and settled into a perfect, consistent ~1K RPM idle. So I let it rumble a bit then crack the throttle open a bit. It died right away, without any increase of RPM at all. Started it back up, went away to talk on the phone. Came back and it's not running. Probably heated up and died. So started it again, idles real well. Hit gas - revs go up just ever so slightly then it's dead again. [email protected]#k, vaccuum leak somewhere or some such!
Ok, start it again and feeeather the throttle just a tiny bit up. Ok, added maybe 100RMP and didn't die. Then another 100. Then another. Then I got tired and just nailed it. It reved past 8K and promply died again, but hey that's progress! Started it again and yep - revs to red line (poor neighbors!) just fine, idle is good, everything just works!
So it looks like something was still a bit gummed up down there and I cleand it enough to get the bike started, but not enough for it to run well. Then it probably just cleand out by itself while the bike was running.
A few things I've learned:
1. The bike starts just fine without the whole front cluster plugged in. No lights, no tach, no nothing - still starts! Of course I have it hot-wired via the main plug 'cause ignition key is still not cooperating, and the bike is not stock so I'm not sure if it will work on a bone stock bike that was started with a key. But if you're out there in the boonies and your battery is almost dead it might be a good idea to just disconnect that big white plug below the fairing stay. My battery is pretty much dead, but it was able to start the bike just fine without all that other junk (lights, instruments, etc). Plug that all back in and there's not enough juice to even crank the bike.
2. Well, hot-wiring via main plug works. You gotta have a fairly thick wire fot two of those contacts though - I did it with a slightly more wimpy wire than what's in the bike and that wire got pretty hot just from turning the bike on so I had to re-do the crimping with a better wire.
What do racers who strip away the ignition use as the ignition switch? I'll try to get to dremeling away the lock cylinder tomorrow but it just doesn't look like a few hours of work.
Looks pretty mean with no plastics
Note how the fork sticks out by over an inch from the triple-clamp, is that how they came stock or it's lowered?1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Glad you got the bike going
Please don't post anything related to hotwiring your bike or it will be bah-leted.
We acknowledge that there are times when a bike needs to be hot wired but at the same time it is board policy not to have this info out in public - you never know when a budding bike thief is watching :wink
Oh and Scooter glad to see you around man, its been a while :thumbup
Please don't post anything related to hotwiring your bike or it will be bah-leted.
We acknowledge that there are times when a bike needs to be hot wired but at the same time it is board policy not to have this info out in public - you never know when a budding bike thief is watching :wink
Oh and Scooter glad to see you around man, its been a while :thumbup
Aha! That makes sense, I'll put them back up for now. And yes the front is '70. Can you share why 70 or 60 makes a big difference?blackonwhite99r6 said:
I swear I don't!SCOOTER6 said:
Must've been a diesel!
Nope. There's a "main switch check" listed in the service manual under "electrical", it has a description of where that plug is, what color those wires are and what to connect to what. Just make sure you have a pretty thick piece of wire or the whole thing will go up in flames.
Not only that, but there's a nail sticking out of the back tire too. I'll still take it for a spin around the block
Oh yea, forgot to ask:
The bike has Factory velocity stacks and they're different size for #1 and 4 cylinder and #2&3. I think the PO got them wrong though, the taller ones were on the outer cylinders and short ones were on 2&3. It's logical that the center cylinders would get taller velocity stacks, am I right?
Ah, found the answer to this ^^^ in the how-tos. I was right, the stacks were put incorrectly.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
