you're taking the 'breaking in' thing a little too seriously.. you only got 45mph??
I Hate New Bikes
Picked up my new 06 R6 2 days ago and the break in period is killing me. MY top speed is 45 so I can only take back roads everywhere and people still ride my ass and try and swerve around me :furious , but I still love my bike picked it up with 2 miles and I'm already at 200 just 300 more miles till my first service and then another 500 until I can finally feel my bike.
Pics will be up soon but here are the stats
I have 2 bikes
an 03 Yamaha R6 Balck with red flames
and my new 06 Yamaha R6 Raven edition :thumbup
Also I was wondering if anyone who recently bought an R6 was able to negotiate the price below MSRP? Apparently here in Georgia there backordered and there was only 3 dealerships that had any left on hand . I couldn't get a penny off MSRP but I did get free gear so I guess that was cool about $600 worth of gear :hattip
Also I know that the break-in method is a widley debated topic. Yes the manual does say 8800rpm's for the first 600 miles, I've even seen websites and heard of people saying that you should drive or ride your new motor hard for a proper break-in period. Where I got my advice from was a engine builder who been working on bike motors for years and he told me that he pulled motors apart with all types of break in methods and he's always found the cleanest pistons (because of better seated rings) with the under 4000rpms for 500 and under 8000rpm for 1000mi and then start using your motor normally method.
Here is a site that claims you should get on your new motor:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Other websites all stating diffrent things:
http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm
http://laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm
Some people ask me why I don't follow the factory manual exactley since they should know best. Simple some company's but synthetic oil in new motors and that as everyone knows is a huge no-no, which completley discredits the factory for me
but thats just one mans opinion
Pics will be up soon but here are the stats
I have 2 bikes
an 03 Yamaha R6 Balck with red flames
and my new 06 Yamaha R6 Raven edition :thumbup
Also I was wondering if anyone who recently bought an R6 was able to negotiate the price below MSRP? Apparently here in Georgia there backordered and there was only 3 dealerships that had any left on hand . I couldn't get a penny off MSRP but I did get free gear so I guess that was cool about $600 worth of gear :hattip
Also I know that the break-in method is a widley debated topic. Yes the manual does say 8800rpm's for the first 600 miles, I've even seen websites and heard of people saying that you should drive or ride your new motor hard for a proper break-in period. Where I got my advice from was a engine builder who been working on bike motors for years and he told me that he pulled motors apart with all types of break in methods and he's always found the cleanest pistons (because of better seated rings) with the under 4000rpms for 500 and under 8000rpm for 1000mi and then start using your motor normally method.
Here is a site that claims you should get on your new motor:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Other websites all stating diffrent things:
http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm
http://laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm
Some people ask me why I don't follow the factory manual exactley since they should know best. Simple some company's but synthetic oil in new motors and that as everyone knows is a huge no-no, which completley discredits the factory for me
but thats just one mans opinion
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
you can go higher, but dont ride it out all crazy and such. id say.... > 90-100?
Ride that bike a little harder my friend.
Yeah I rode my bike kinda hard when I got it I just changed the oil a little eariler and really keep up with matience...:2cents
break in periods are mostly BS. Has anyone ever bought a new car or truck or anything with a motor and been told to keep the rpm below a certain point.
I might be wrong, but I don't think that AMA or Motogp bikes are being broken in the same way, maybe for the first 20-50 miles.(some 2stroke race bike motors are only good for 300-500 before needing a rebuild.) As far as I know, pistons,rings and cylinders all do the same thing, it should not matter what they are used for.
I think that the reason that we have to keep the rpms below a certain point might be for rider safety. Just think how many people go out and buy a 600 or 1000 for their first bike. What do you think would happen if they could hit redline on their first day? With the BS break in period that same guy might learn to control the bike better after 600 miles of slow riding. Just my :2cents
I might be wrong, but I don't think that AMA or Motogp bikes are being broken in the same way, maybe for the first 20-50 miles.(some 2stroke race bike motors are only good for 300-500 before needing a rebuild.) As far as I know, pistons,rings and cylinders all do the same thing, it should not matter what they are used for.
I think that the reason that we have to keep the rpms below a certain point might be for rider safety. Just think how many people go out and buy a 600 or 1000 for their first bike. What do you think would happen if they could hit redline on their first day? With the BS break in period that same guy might learn to control the bike better after 600 miles of slow riding. Just my :2cents
I just got an 06 R1 ...the breaking in is going....but you can go alot faster....just keep the rpm's under 7k
MotoGP and the likes aren't built with the same tolerances as our "street bikes". They rebuild after every race. It's best to follow the manual, but damn... change gears or something because 45 mph must be like 7,000 rpm in third gear.nick04R6 said:break in periods are mostly BS. Has anyone ever bought a new car or truck or anything with a motor and been told to keep the rpm below a certain point.
I might be wrong, but I don't think that AMA or Motogp bikes are being broken in the same way, maybe for the first 20-50 miles.(some 2stroke race bike motors are only good for 300-500 before needing a rebuild.) As far as I know, pistons,rings and cylinders all do the same thing, it should not matter what they are used for.
I think that the reason that we have to keep the rpms below a certain point might be for rider safety. Just think how many people go out and buy a 600 or 1000 for their first bike. What do you think would happen if they could hit redline on their first day? With the BS break in period that same guy might learn to control the bike better after 600 miles of slow riding. Just my :2cents
As said above, you're allowed to go over the suggested RPM limit, just don't abuse it. In my 04 manual it said to "avoid prolonged operation above 7000r/min", it doesn't say NOT to operate above 7000 RPM. I'd definitely ride it harder than you are.
you hate new bikes? Well, we hate people that complain that they have new beautiful bikes... =) =)
Just don't stay in one rev range, ie. highway cruising at 4k rpm. Vary the engine speed and you should be fine.
rev limits are bullshit. let the bike fully warm up at idle. this gives the cams time to take a wear pattern. after that, beat the crap out of it. your piston rings will thank you later. if the motor is going to blow its best to do it early. almost all motors are run at the factory through all the gears at redline to see if they will pop. i know our porsche engines are dynoed before they are put into the car.
Definitely not riding the bike like you should.. don't be afraid dude.
Wise man once say, if you break it in like a bitch, it will forever run like a bitch.
Seat those rings. You will thank yourself. Think of it this way, you mentioned that you know that synthetic is a no-no for break in right? Well, here's my opinion on that. I agree synthetic is a no-no, because the shit is too slippery. You want something with a touch more abrasive qualities than sythetic can provide. So you run conventional oil to allow the rings to scrub out the cylinder walls and get seated for the ride right? IMO, and only IMO since I'll prob get flamed by those that think otherwise, running a conventional oil, but babying the bike is almost an oxymoron, (for lack of a better term.) I dunno if that makes any sense to you, but it does to me somehow...
Broke mine in pretty hard, takin it up to 100mph and over here and there, running canyons, occasionally redlining it just to wring it out, and varying the RPMs all over the map. Just tried to stay under 14k max for harder acceleration shifts. Haven't dynoed it yet, but the opinion of the dudes at my dealer is that my motor is running phenominally.
Seat those rings. You will thank yourself. Think of it this way, you mentioned that you know that synthetic is a no-no for break in right? Well, here's my opinion on that. I agree synthetic is a no-no, because the shit is too slippery. You want something with a touch more abrasive qualities than sythetic can provide. So you run conventional oil to allow the rings to scrub out the cylinder walls and get seated for the ride right? IMO, and only IMO since I'll prob get flamed by those that think otherwise, running a conventional oil, but babying the bike is almost an oxymoron, (for lack of a better term.) I dunno if that makes any sense to you, but it does to me somehow...
Broke mine in pretty hard, takin it up to 100mph and over here and there, running canyons, occasionally redlining it just to wring it out, and varying the RPMs all over the map. Just tried to stay under 14k max for harder acceleration shifts. Haven't dynoed it yet, but the opinion of the dudes at my dealer is that my motor is running phenominally.
I think you need to ride it a little harder my friend. I would break it in hard but riding it too soft might be just a bad as our friend's above ^ method. Stick with the method the people who actually made the motor recommeond for it. Really, does it matter though, it think the motors are already broken in from the factory. Why wouldn't they do that, so some idiot could f it up later and make them look bad?
I have always been told that you should break it in the same way you are going to ride it!! I have done that with all my dirt bikes, quads and trucks and I have never had any engine problems with them after several years of hard riding.
Let it warm up good, take a good 15 minute cruise and then find a few good roads with less traffic (preferably none) that you can grab a fist full of throttle and give it a work out. Do that for a few hunderd miles and it will always run strong.
Let it warm up good, take a good 15 minute cruise and then find a few good roads with less traffic (preferably none) that you can grab a fist full of throttle and give it a work out. Do that for a few hunderd miles and it will always run strong.
A screw it you only live once! Fist time owning something brand new like this and the last thing I wanted to do is tear the motor up. I just hit 500 so I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow for an oil change (it's free for the first) after that I'm gonna actually ride that bike like it was meant to be ridin :hyper
Punk ass. Ha! But what exactly was wrong with my method, other than not following Yamaha's guidelines? Break it in like your gonna ride it right???Karonic said:I think you need to ride it a little harder my friend. I would break it in hard but riding it too soft might be just a bad as our friend's above ^ method. Stick with the method the people who actually made the motor recommeond for it. Really, does it matter though, it think the motors are already broken in from the factory. Why wouldn't they do that, so some idiot could f it up later and make them look bad?
The imporant part is to make sure it's warmed up enough! (as probably previously stated)
....and just to add, if you've read the owners manual it states nothing in the break-in about keeping it at or below a certain speed.
It says to avoid prolonged operation above the stated RPM range, 0 - 600 miles 8,800 RPM, 600 - 1000 10,200 RPM. No where does it state you have to keep it below 45 MPH. Also, it DOES NOT state that you can not exceed the RPM limits given, it says and I quote "avoid prolonged operation" i.e. running down the e-way at 14 grand.
But I say ride it like it's going to be ridin. My 06 R6 was broken in on the track, enough said. Cheers and congrats on the new bike.
It says to avoid prolonged operation above the stated RPM range, 0 - 600 miles 8,800 RPM, 600 - 1000 10,200 RPM. No where does it state you have to keep it below 45 MPH. Also, it DOES NOT state that you can not exceed the RPM limits given, it says and I quote "avoid prolonged operation" i.e. running down the e-way at 14 grand.
But I say ride it like it's going to be ridin. My 06 R6 was broken in on the track, enough said. Cheers and congrats on the new bike.
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
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