R6 Message Net banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I was in disbelief that this forum didnt have one of these when I was looking for one so I decided to write one up myself. I took some pics too but will incorporate those images later one.

Hope you guys find this helpful!!!


Yoyo Slipper Clutch Install for the ‘03+ R6

Parts the Yoyo kit replaces:
- Pressure plate
- Clutch boss (new piece is a 2 part design)
- Nut and tabbed washer
- 6 bolts/buckets that hold the PP to the CB.

Uninstall

1- Place bike on rear stand. (sidestand will work too)
2- Unscrew and remove clutch cover bolts.
3- Loosen clutch cable and detach it from the little arm that’s attached to the cover.
4- This little arm needs to be rotated counterclockwise (looking downward) and face rearward to make removal of cover easier.
5- Either remove (may make things easier) or pull some slack in the hose that runs from the radiator to the water pump.
6- With a screwdriver try to knock the cover loose…… carefully! (Tip- I actually found it easier to use a long solid rod snaking it through near the shock and tapping it with a mallet on one of the tabs.)
7- Once the side cover is removed, you can now loosen all six bolts and remove the pressure plate.
8- Now take out all friction AND clutch plates, trying to keep things in the same order/direction. This might be a good time to inspect them; I found TWO friction plates cracked.
Note: The last two friction plates are different from the others, don’t mix them up. Also the FINAL plate is a clutch plate (which is .25MM thicker than the rest of the clutch plates) place this one on the side, you won’t be using it. One final note about the clutch plates, take notice to how you put them back in, each plate has a rounded/smooth side and the other is brushed and has a sharp corner (just like a washer). These plates MUST face the same direction, either inwards or outwards but they must be the same.
9- Before loosening the center nut there is a tab that must be bent up, find it, and then pry it up with a screwdriver.
10- If you have a clutch holder tool great, if not, an impact wrench will work.
11- Remove clutch boss.

Reinstall

12- Sit new clutch boss on table.
13- Make sure all six loose bearings are in place in their pockets.
14- Place the geared sprocket looking thing in place being careful not to knock any of the bearing loose.
15- Temporarily place two compression springs two new spring buckets & two new screws (opposite ends of each other) and tighten them up snug to keep these two parts tight. (This keeps the bearings from falling out of their pockets as you’re putting it in place inside the motor. You’ll see what I’m talking about once you get going)
16- Make sure the thrust plate in place on the spline, mine was stuck to the back of the clutch boss.
17- Place this new Yoyo clutch boss in position inside the motor.
18- Place the conical or cupped washer in next, you want the cone facing inwards.
19- Next is the star like washer, be sure the legs fit into their proper place.
20- Now place a dab of Loctite on the threads and finally screw the nut in place hand tight.
21- Again if you have the clutch holder tool great but some of us aren’t that lucky so I just used the impact wrench again. Be sure to give it a good couple of zaps cuz just when I thought she was on tight, I marked the spline and nut and gave it another zap and she still tightened up a bit. (be sure check torq setting on Yoyo instructions)
22- You can now remove those two compression springs.
23- Onto the plates, as mentioned above, the last plate that came out of the motor is the thickest clutch plate, do NOT reinstall this clutch plate.
24- You want to start with one of the two friction plates I told you is different from the rest. If you look carefully at the tabs on all eight friction plates you will see only two tabs are NOT flared, another words they are thinner than the other six plates. These two thinner friction plates go in first.
Note: Friction plates and clutch plates ALWAYS alternate, at no time should either be side x side.
25- Remember to install the clutch plates in the SAME direction.
26- Now put the new pressure plate into place, put all six compression springs, buckets and screws in. Tighten in crisscross pattern. (be sure check torq setting on Yoyo instructions)
27- Reinstall cover and clutch cable.

Some people will tell you to dump the oil before the install, I think it’s a lot smarter doing it AFTER the install just in case any contaminates got in during the install.

Hope this helps anyone wanting to take this on themselves.

Lastly, I am NOT a professional mechanic so obviously use these instructions at your own risk!!!! (unfortunate than one needs to throw in a disclaimer these days.)

© 2006 - R6Messagenet.com - All Rights Reserved
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Well, I was in disbelief that this forum didnt have one of these when I was looking for one so I decided to write one up myself. I took some pics too but will incorporate those images later one.

Hope you guys find this helpful!!!


Yoyo Slipper Clutch Install for the ‘03+ R6

Parts the Yoyo kit replaces:
  • Pressure plate
  • Clutch boss (new piece is a 2 part design)
  • Nut and tabbed washer
  • 6 bolts/buckets that hold the PP to the CB.
Uninstall

1- Place bike on rear stand. (sidestand will work too)
2- Unscrew and remove clutch cover bolts.
3- Loosen clutch cable and detach it from the little arm that’s attached to the cover.
4- This little arm needs to be rotated counterclockwise (looking downward) and face rearward to make removal of cover easier.
5- Either remove (may make things easier) or pull some slack in the hose that runs from the radiator to the water pump.
6- With a screwdriver try to knock the cover loose…… carefully! (Tip- I actually found it easier to use a long solid rod snaking it through near the shock and tapping it with a mallet on one of the tabs.)
7- Once the side cover is removed, you can now loosen all six bolts and remove the pressure plate.
8- Now take out all friction AND clutch plates, trying to keep things in the same order/direction. This might be a good time to inspect them; I found TWO friction plates cracked.
Note: The last two friction plates are different from the others, don’t mix them up. Also the FINAL plate is a clutch plate (which is .25MM thicker than the rest of the clutch plates) place this one on the side, you won’t be using it. One final note about the clutch plates, take notice to how you put them back in, each plate has a rounded/smooth side and the other is brushed and has a sharp corner (just like a washer). These plates MUST face the same direction, either inwards or outwards but they must be the same.
9- Before loosening the center nut there is a tab that must be bent up, find it, and then pry it up with a screwdriver.
10- If you have a clutch holder tool great, if not, an impact wrench will work.
11- Remove clutch boss.

Reinstall

12- Sit new clutch boss on table.
13- Make sure all six loose bearings are in place in their pockets.
14- Place the geared sprocket looking thing in place being careful not to knock any of the bearing loose.
15- Temporarily place two compression springs two new spring buckets & two new screws (opposite ends of each other) and tighten them up snug to keep these two parts tight. (This keeps the bearings from falling out of their pockets as you’re putting it in place inside the motor. You’ll see what I’m talking about once you get going)
16- Make sure the thrust plate in place on the spline, mine was stuck to the back of the clutch boss.
17- Place this new Yoyo clutch boss in position inside the motor.
18- Place the conical or cupped washer in next, you want the cone facing inwards.
19- Next is the star like washer, be sure the legs fit into their proper place.
20- Now place a dab of Loctite on the threads and finally screw the nut in place hand tight.
21- Again if you have the clutch holder tool great but some of us aren’t that lucky so I just used the impact wrench again. Be sure to give it a good couple of zaps cuz just when I thought she was on tight, I marked the spline and nut and gave it another zap and she still tightened up a bit. (be sure check torq setting on Yoyo instructions)
22- You can now remove those two compression springs.
23- Onto the plates, as mentioned above, the last plate that came out of the motor is the thickest clutch plate, do NOT reinstall this clutch plate.
24- You want to start with one of the two friction plates I told you is different from the rest. If you look carefully at the tabs on all eight friction plates you will see only two tabs are NOT flared, another words they are thinner than the other six plates. These two thinner friction plates go in first.
Note: Friction plates and clutch plates ALWAYS alternate, at no time should either be side x side.
25- Remember to install the clutch plates in the SAME direction.
26- Now put the new pressure plate into place, put all six compression springs, buckets and screws in. Tighten in crisscross pattern. (be sure check torq setting on Yoyo instructions)
27- Reinstall cover and clutch cable.

Some people will tell you to dump the oil before the install, I think it’s a lot smarter doing it AFTER the install just in case any contaminates got in during the install.

Hope this helps anyone wanting to take this on themselves.

Lastly, I am NOT a professional mechanic so obviously use these instructions at your own risk!!!! (unfortunate than one needs to throw in a disclaimer these days.)

© 2006 - R6Messagenet.com - All Rights Reserved
Hello! I am new, to the r6 forums and I own a 2011 r6 with a yoyodyne slipper clutch installed by the previous owner. the clutch seems to have given out on me and I am reassembling the clutch. I am in the stage of tightening the boss clutch nut (20). I do not have a clutch holder tool either, do I have to hold the clutch down in any way if I use an impact wrench? Thank you in advance for any help I've never done this before.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top