If you are experiencing any kind of vibration what so ever in your clip-ons, foot pegs, balls then you carburetors/throttle bodies may need to be synced.
This process is essentially the same no matter what year bike you have. I did choose to do this on my ’04 though since it is fuel injected and well… that’s the way it’s going to be.
For those of you with a carbureted R6, you have is easy, it is possible to sync you carbs without removing your tank or your air box, just look real hard for your adjusting screws and you can get to them. For those of us with a ’03 and newer well you don’t have it so easy; we have to remove our air box to get to the adjusting screws.
Things you will need:
Tool girl (optional, as she left ½ way through as she always does)
An almost empty tank of gas (optional)
5mm hex (allen) key
4mm hex (allen) hey
oh and most important a sync tool.
With the mention of a sync tool, let me take some time to plug the John Morgan Carbtune (http://www.carbtune.com). Maybe he will see this and send me some free tools. This is a great sync tool if you need one, I love it you don’t have to mess around with mercury and it cost less then a $300-$600 digital one (those are so cool!) head over to his site to read more about it. It cost about $100 US; it comes from the UK and takes about a week to arrive.
If you think $100 is a lot for the tool, then ask your dealer how much they charge to do a sync and you will see that you make it up in the first use. Also I charge my friends $40 to do it for them so I easily made it up.
If you’re still bitching about the price then look at a mercury sync tool. They are just as easy to use but you have the fear of sucking mercury in your engine. (Not likely to happen unless you rip open the throttle ‘accidentally’).
Kneedraggers.com has one for about $40
First start by removing your seat, 5mm hex.
Then your tank bolts, 5mm hex.
Now some of you don’t know about this, but should. There is no need to prop your tank up with a piece of wood, hammer etc. (As long as you don’t have more than ½ a tank off gas) If you look at the hinge on you tank you will notice these (look at photo.)
Remove the hinge bolt (10mm) and then prop up the tank so the blue (or whatever color you bike is) tabs rotate behind the subframe and then replace the hinge bolt. Your tank is now propped up on its own.
If you have a carbureted model you can go straight to locating your vacuum hoses. If you have FI then you are going to need to remove your air box.
Remove the 10mm bolt up top and the two ram hose hoses (Phillips)
Then you can attempt to remove the 4 hex bolts (4mm) that attach the air box to the throttle bodies or you can just yank it off. Then remove all vacuum hoses attached to the air box, there are 4 keep track of what goes where.
Now we can locate the vacuum hoses, there are 4, one fore each throttle body/cylinder.
You will notice that cylinder 1 is connected to 3 and 2 is connect to 4; I don’t know why, this has nothing to do with the operation of the bike, because each hose is blocked off by the black plugs.
Remove the 2 plugs and set them aside.
Then connect your sync tool to the appropriate hoses.
Now locate your adjusting screws if your have a carbureted model you should be able to see them just beneath the air box (if you haven’t removed it) with the aid of a flashlight. FI models, they are located right on top.
Now syncing your bodies/carbs is a give and take relationship. Think of your 4 bodies/carbs in 2 pairs. 1 & 2 are a pair and 3 & 4 are a pair. When you adjust the screw between 1 & 2 (labeled 1 in photo) you are bringing the butterfly valves of the bodies/carbs into alignment.
For instance if you were to assign valves to each it would be as follows:
Cylinder 1: 5
Cylinder 2: 3
So you will take from cylinder 1 and give to cylinder 2 until both of them equal 4.
Still with me? I hope so
You can see this on your sync tool, as you adjust screw 1 on your bodies/carbs you will see bar 1 and 2 fluctuate, as bar 1 gets smaller bar 2 will get larger.
Use screw 2 to adjust cylinders 3 & 4, then use screw 3 to bring the two sets ([1 & 2] and [3 & 4]) together.
The goal is to have all 4 bars at the same level.
This is what mine looked like (I synced them not to long ago) But you can see cylinder 1 is a bit off from the rest. This isn’t a lot (at all) but this will cause your left hand to go numb if you ride for a good distance.
You can now start you bike up and have at it, if you are doing this on a ’03 or newer you are going to have a code 22 displayed, that's because you disconnected your MAS on your air box, don’t worry about it.
If you read the manual it suggests setting your idle and running at operating temp etc. Your idle should be fine you don’t have to worry about setting it. It has no affect on the reading (in a way). Do have your bike running at operating temp though, about 178*.
Here are some fine tuning techniques.
Don’t do these if you are using a mercury sync tool, unless you are extremely careful. Try opening up the throttle and adjusting while you have air entering at a higher rate of speed. This may require 2 people, one to hold the throttle and one to adjust. This makes a world of difference in the smoothness of the engine. Who cares about how level they are at idle, I want the same amount of air entering while I have the throttle ripped open to 10 grand! Blip the throttle a couple of times and watch your sync tool you will notice some differences, try adjusting while you have someone holding the throttle to about 4-5 grand.
Carb. models are good to go after this.
Now for some observations on the FI models you may want to consider or look into. If you have ever opened up the air box on a stock model, you will notice that cylinders 2 & 3 have some larger stacks that may restrict some air flow.
Now if I sync my bodies at idle then hold the throttle open to 5k cylinders 2 & 3 have more vacuum pressure entering without the air box on (a good amount more too). :wtf This tells me that cylinders 2 & 3 bodies may have a different springs in the slide stops then 1 & 4.
So those of you with v-stacks may want to tune around this by holding the throttle open while syncing. If you have v-stacks and slide stops then you shouldn't be affected.
I haven’t done anything else to test this theory but at the time it is the only thing I am going on. If you bike is stock like mine do the sync at idle and hope the stock air box equalizes it. When I get some more time I will look into this and get some readings with the air box on etc.
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