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Just-A-Newb
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idk what wire it would be on the 08

for the short stint that he rode it...has said it is smoother, still pulls pretty strong as well. top end hasn't faded away...don't know if i should go down 1 and see how it rides then
 

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does this work on the 05
I just found this thread and i have just recently cut 6" off my Cf slip on and would like to give this a try
 

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So I have been following this thread for almost a year now. I assumed from the beginning that this modification worked. After actually doing it I can assure you that it does do something. I finally did this to my bike today. I decided to do it more as an experiment. I don't condone cheating and since I will be running in the superstock class for racing I don't believe they allow for modification to the ecu. Although they do allow for aftermarket fuel and ignition components. In either case I got to the CO 1-4 as perscribed, recorded my initial settings and began a few tests. My test showed that going + 2 on each setting did show a more responsive acceleration from gooseing the throttle. I went +7 on each setting and this yielded backwards progression. The throttle response was diminished to worse than stock settings. I then set each CO setting to +40 and the results were interesting. The bike started and ran with rough idle and the throttle response was not very good. I then ran the bike with -20 on all parameters. The idle was again influenced but not nearly as bad. Although the throttle response itself was better it was very sluggish. It seemed as if there was less fuel. There was an obviouse lack of abilty for the bike to wrap up when the throttle was goosed. I then changed every other CO setting to the opposite but equal setting so it was set +20, -20 etc. This brought it back to nearly stock behavior. Idle was fine and when the throttle was goosed it reacted in typical fashion. One thing that I noted with each setting is that it didn't seem to effect anything after 4-5,000 rpm. This may shed light on the initial post that the settings may be represent to certain rpm ranges. I in favor of not killing relations with neighbors stopped after running these batterys of tests. I set the machine to the +2 settings that i had originally changed to. This showed the best results of all things that I had tried.

The results of my tests show obviouse results. You can change the setting from -125 to +125 or whatever. The baseline is 0 and most bike will range from within -10 to +10 as mentioned on an earlier post. This was typicle of my machine as well. I believe that the settings are bike specific I.E each bike has it's own setting that will be unlike any other bike. This is confirmed in previouse posts and makes complete sense.

It should be noted that none of the tests were used while riding the machine. My bike is set up for track only use so tearing around the area with the bike is not a good idea. I will be testing next to see if setting the CO values to more isolated settings yield results that will show if the values are not cylinder specific. I want to test and see if they are rpm specific and each one has to do with a specific rpm range. Based on my tests it seems very possible that they are in fact not cylinder specific. I did not alternate the -20 to +20 settings the other way to see if there was a difference. It is possible that doing this may not have yielded the same results. I can say that changing the settings by signifcant values does not hurt the machine. The reason being is that the change will show either improvement or degradation of stock performance. The results are instant and the changes can be made before real damage can occure. If the values are in fact rpm specific it would be easy to spot problems. You can make it better in one range and throttle position and be able to notice the lack of performance in another rpm range etc.

It would appear to me that setting the values +2 works very well because the change is good enough to show improvements across all rpm and throttle positions. This could be why there has not been proof yet to show that it is rpm specific or cylinder specific. Many have stated that mechanics or techs have said it is cylinder specific. I can neither confirm nor disprove this at the moment. And have not seen any other posts that have yet either. I will of course after doing more tests, post my results hopefully shedding light on the truth of operation. According to my tests so far it seems only to effect idle and throttle response. hopefully tommorro I will be able to do more specific tests which will isolate specific rpm ranges or throttle positions. Or perhaps I will be able to make 1 cylinder drop out from cutting to much fuel for it to run. Stay tuned.
 

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well today i decided to try this. beins my bike was in need of some type of tuning and i dont have a power commander. its a 04 with a full d&d, a k&n intake. and a gutted air box my stock numbers werre c1-2 c2-5 c3-5 c4-2 i bumped them all up +3 new numbers are 5,8,8,5. took her for a ride and she has a bit more pull at low end. im liking lol. i need to fund someone in this area whith a dyno and a a/f meter so i can get it a bit more precise even thought i know it wont be perfect. i would like to get it in a darn close range. so if neone out there is in northeastern ohio that has the equipment. let me know im very interested in going. i will definitly say this was extremly easy to do and recommend to anyone who has any mods and needs some type of tuning and doesnt have the cash for a power commander.:hyper
 

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08 R6

I have read this thread several time on. Has anybody done this to an 08? If not does anybody know if it will work? I sure would like to do this instead of buying a power commander.
 

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Doing a follow up>>>>>

As far as the newer bikes are concerned I don't believe that this trick will work. At least not with the same method that older bikes can do it.

I had recently had a chance to play with the settings even more. I set one cylinder to -120 and found that the idle is affected and will appear to kill that cylinder. However after goosing the throttle a couple of times it seems to go back to a normal idle. Adjusting as much in the other direction into positive numbers gets the same results. even setting all cylinders down to -100 or so doesn't really stop the bike from running. I even took the time to see if each setting was rpm specific. It does not seem to matter. The results are always about the same. It would appear that the settings are simply to fine tune each cylinder for best results. This would make sence as each bike seems to have different numbers that have the 2 center cylinders a little different from the outer 2. This would appear to be in line with the fact that the bikes have different snorkels on the two inner cylinders. The inner snorkels are taller than the outer ones. This will improve high rpm performance of air intake. Perhaps the reason why the two inner cylinders have settings that are of marked difference.

In conclusion of my tests I can find no appreciable benefit to this mod without proper measuring tools. The best results that can be found seem to be by adding 2-4 points for each cylinder. This only seems to improve idle and throttle response at lower rpms. Beyond that I see no gain.
 

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Maybe it's just me, but when I get the "dIAG" and press select. I get this funny setting. It's like "d50 1: 30" Pressing "SELECT" or "RESET" just makes the numbers go up or down. (Pressing simultaneously doesn't do anything either) Anybody else get this? Can't seem to find the "CO"
 

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I'm pretty sure that on the 06 and up CO mode only affects mixture at idle. The tuning aspect of it is mainly for EPA testing and Idle emission tuning on bikes with aftermarket parts. You can use it to beat emissions if your area does that sort of testing but that's about it.
 

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Ok it looks like nobody knows how to do it...so I go buy a PC3 !!!

Reverend, on the Europeen bikes you have access to the setting of the mixture (like for the 2004 without cut any wires) and you can modify all the range (not only at idle).
The reason is in some Europeen country like France where I am from (sorry nobody is perfect ! lol) bikes are power limited at 100 HP and the fuel mixture is modify (less gas). To have your R6 full power you have to do a modification in the DECU program and after you must adjust the fuel mixture on all the range, usually it's +8 on C1,C2,C3 and C4.
That's why I'm sure it should work on our bikes but where is this fu...g wire ???
 

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I just read the 44 pages!!!
Too many people that try it and noone has a wideband to check what is truth???
You try to understand from the plugs!!! :) Just go to a tunner and borrow a wideband!!

We still don't know if it change the cyllinders... if it change with rpms.. if it changes only idle..!

All people said that there is improve but nothing sure.

Ofcourse the guy that went to the dyno he didn't see any difference as their air/fuel was ok so there isn't any need for tunning.


When I will go back to home(two weeks), I will fit the wideband from my car and I will tell you exactly what this adjustments do!!
 

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I just read the 44 pages!!!
Too many people that try it and noone has a wideband to check what is truth???
You try to understand from the plugs!!! :) Just go to a tunner and borrow a wideband!!

We still don't know if it change the cyllinders... if it change with rpms.. if it changes only idle..!

All people said that there is improve but nothing sure.

Ofcourse the guy that went to the dyno he didn't see any difference as their air/fuel was ok so there isn't any need for tunning.


When I will go back to home(two weeks), I will fit the wideband from my car and I will tell you exactly what this adjustments do!!
Have you tested yet?? PLease let us know.
 

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2006 model yamaha ben kendi r6 benim motosiklet 20 km kullanıyor 10 litre yakıt tüketiyor
Yakıtı orijinal stok versiyonuna düşürmek için bu ayar değiştirmeliyim.
??? :Ağla::Ağla:
 
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