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i didnt read all the post cuz there are 38 pages worth so sorry if this has been answered

instead of cutting the wire can you just use something like a tap disconnect (pic below) so you are just tapping the wire instead of cutting it



more like this one but you get idea
 

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Or if that don't work get yourself a PC3...... I didn't read the whole 38 pages but I did read 36 pages.. LOL Nehows, good luck.. :thumbup
 

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Well, I just tried this on my silver '03 R6.

Stock settings:

C1 = 0
C2 = 0
C3 = 0
C4 = 1

Current settings:
C1 = 2
C2 = 2
C3 = 2
C4 = 3

My settings seem much closer together than what others have posted...
 

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Robb235 said:
Well, I just tried this on my silver '03 R6.

Stock settings:

C1 = 0
C2 = 0
C3 = 0
C4 = 1

Current settings:
C1 = 2
C2 = 2
C3 = 2
C4 = 3

My settings seem much closer together than what others have posted...
Just got back from my first ride with the new settings. I noticed a little more power, especially once it got around 5k RPMs and higher.

I am located in Chattanooga, TN and have an Ackropovic slip on as my only mod.
 

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second that!

I did this mod on my bike about two seasons ago and changed my settings to what R6 Saint was experimenting with. I dyno'd my bike with about 9 runs switching my ratio between every two runs and my results were the same 106-107hp range as R6 Saints dyno graphs show. I am also happy with my throttle response and smoothness.

Tater Out!
 

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My buddy did this to his 2005 R1

His stock settings were:

C1 = 3
C2 = 3
C3 = 3
C4 = 3

He then bumped it up by either +2 or +3 across the board, can't remember which. He said that the bike ran unbelievably better.

I kinda find it odd that both of our settings were so close together. All his stock settings were 3 while all mine were 0, except for C4 which was 1.
 

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so what happens if i tap it and just leave it wired up to the battery w/out a switch? will i be able to ride normally and adjust it as i please or will it go into diag mode?
 

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well i wired mine up w/out a switch and man was i running way lean
C1= 0
C2= -5
C3= -6
C4= -3

hopefully i can get a chance to ride to see how it feels

C1=2
C2= -3
C3= -3
C4= -1
 

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kyles r6 said:
well i wired mine up w/out a switch and man was i running way lean
C1= 0
C2= -5
C3= -6
C4= -3

hopefully i can get a chance to ride to see how it feels

C1=2
C2= -3
C3= -3
C4= -1
Just curious, but how did you know you were running lean?
 

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I'm not sure that having a negative value means you're running lean... I think that's just the value that Yamaha decided to set it at. I'm not sure anyone really knows what these numbers mean... but yeah, you probably were running lean if you had v-stacks and no PC.
 

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i went to my local yamaha dealer and asked a guy in service about this. he said that he has done this himself and it does not work. he said that you can adjust the CO 1,2,3,4 but it will only effect how the bike is running at idle. he said that once you hit the gas the numbers will reset to stock...im not sure if this is right but that is what i was told. he said there is no way to cheat a power commander :)
 

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40 pages and almost exactly 3 years later and no progress, there is still nobody that knows what this actually does?
 

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I just did this on the weekend to my 2005 R6.

I did the following changes:

C1 - no change
C2 - added 3
C3 - added 3
C4 - added 2

The bike definately seems to have better off-on throttling (less abrupt) and the surging at 4750 rpm has changed from a harsh bucking feeling to a couple of light sort of hiccups. The bike seems to pull more cleanly through the midrange a part-throttle as well. Top end seems to be about the same.
 
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