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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

New Information! Please Read Again!

This is in reference to another post… I couldn’t have done this without the help of the member who posted the information which was on the R1 forum.

Origianl Post
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14388

This was so much fun to do and in my opinion well worth it.

New info: If you have a Euro model, then you can skip the grounding of wire 29, move stright to adjusting the settings. Only US/Canada models need to ground wire 29.

You are going to have to ground wire 29 coming from you ECU, so first remove your seat and then you are going to need to locate the wiring harness leading into your computer


Disconnect it and look on the side where the wires lead into it. If you look closely you can locate the number “27” on the bottom area. The wire you are going to need to snip is wire “29”. Move over two wires and cut wire “29” give yourself enough room to reattach the ends when you finished.


Attach the end of the wire that comes from the harness to a ground, the negative battery terminal is right there so you might as well use it.


Now with a secure ground on wire "29" press both the "RESET" and "SELECT" while you turn the key to the “ON” position. Keeping them pressed for about 8 sec. you will see “DIAG” apprear.


Press “SELECT” once and you should see “CO”. If you don’t see “CO” turn your bike off and check your ground and try again. If you are sure your wire is grounded properly try cutting wire “27” and ground one of those two (wire “27” loops around and connects with wire “29” theoretically either one will work.)


Now with “CO” on the LCD screen press both “RESET” and “SELECT” for about 2 sec. and you should see “C1”


Use the “SELECT” or “REST” buttons to select the cylinder you wish to adjust. Then press both “SELECT” and “RESET” for about 2 sec. and you will see the current setting.


My settings from factoy were as follows:
C1: 0
C2: -6
C3: 0
C4: -10


I recommend writing these numbers down because this is what you are going to need to use as a starting point.

New Information

Now here’s the dilemma… no one can come up with proof as to what exactly these settings do… I have had people contact me telling me the following but when I asked them for documentation which they claim they read it from they couldn’t come through.

Theory 1: C1 is cylinder 1, C2 is cylinder 2 and so on; and the reason for the different numbers was due to a staggered pattern often seen in many carbureted bikes. You must adjust all 4 as needed.

Theory 2: C1 is cylinder 1, C2 is cylinder 2 and so on; and the reason for the different numbers was due to a staggered pattern often seen in many carbureted bikes. You must adjust all 4 as needed but only affect rpm range from 3k or less. Adjusting these settings will do nothing to help performance at higher rpms.

Theory 3:


Download this PDF

Download PDF

The information is on page 29 (25 if you go by document page numbers.)

Fuel injection Adjustment

Fuel injection amount can be adjusted in the following four ranges:

Code C1: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed

Code C2: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine speed

Code C3: Fuel amount injected at 25% to 90% of throttle opening

Code C4: Fuel amount injected at 90% or more of throttle opening

Before changing the settings, check the engine for its characteristics in normal condition. It is recommended that the settings be checked with an A/F measuring instrument.



Guidelines for setting

Code C1:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed:
This affects the idling stability and the feeling experienced during races. Too rich an air-fuel mixture may foul the spark plugs.

Code C2:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine
speed:
This affects the feeling experienced during engine braking and at initial
throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time while checking for any resulting changes.

Code C3:
At 25% to 90% of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at half throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time and check for any resulting changes.

Code C4:
At 90% or more of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle. Adjustment to too lean a mixture will lead to engine breakdown. Adjustment by checking the A/F is recommended. In particular, to adjust on the leaner side, make a change of 1 to 2% at a time while checking for the result. 12 to 13 is a targeted A/F.


To change the setting select the cylinder you want to adjust and then hold the “RESET” and “SELECT: buttons for two sec. this will display the current setting as shown above. Once you can see the current setting you can adjust using the “SELECT” button to go up in number or the “RESET” button to go down in number. Push both “SELECT” and “RESET” when you finished setting your new numbers.

Now turn your bike off and then reconnect your wire “29” back to itself using what ever you wish, and take it for a ride!

Also I am curious in the diffrence in numbers on the bikes... So if anyone does this post your year bike and your numbers. mine was an '04

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re:

i remember one of the expert riders at willow springs was looking at my bike, he said he's getting his own shop or something. Helped me with my suspension and sag, turned out great. but also just by looking at my exhaust he tells me i'm running rich ( i got a mig high mount cf on my 03 in case y'all don't know) cause he said my exhaust burn is whiter than normal. So i am curious as to what i could do to help adjust for this. If anyone does this mod any time soon chime in with what year bike/what mods you got already.
 

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Curious as to why you had to snip those wires to begin with...
~Z~
:smilecool
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you don't ground the 29 wire it won't allow you to go into "CO" mode. This is something that Yamaha really doesn't want you screwing with unless you are quailfied to do so. So... if you don't ground the wire, you won't have the option to enter into "CO" mode.
 

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But the question remains, what exactly are we changing here? How did the test ride go? Notice anything different at all?

Thanks again for posting this. Very interesting stuff.:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Test ride results…

Not having a dyno to confirm my results I was extremely satisfied none the less. My motor felt smoother, and the power in the lower rpms was increased for sure. The higher rpms around 10 or higher felt about the same.

But I have also noticed this…
With throttle fully open it really picked up for sure. A lot more power then before, a half open throttle felt a lot smoother. Then the slightly open cruising around with the throttle cracked a little felt soggy. Don’t misunderstand me though the bike still felt smoother but I could feel the “richness” (let’s say) when I wasn't more than 1/4 open throttle.

Hopefully that could provide some insight… I think if you look on the R1 forum someone has a dyno test of the difference. I will see if I can get my shop to dyno mine for me so I can show the difference.
 

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So this totally supports what I've been saying could be done a few weeks ago on another thread - where's that thread
 

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I may have to give this a try since I know I'm running quite lean...
What numbers did you eventually end up setting your thingy to??

Oh yeah...I can't help myself...
:threadjac


HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARY-KATE AND ASHLEY!!!
:happybirt
~Z~
:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #14
New test ride results...

Yesterday when I took it for a ride it was really humid outside as it was about to rain in my area, which I was eventually caught in.

So today on my way to work it no longer felt soggy with a little throttle it felt great and smooth also it definitely picked up some from 8k to 12k. I thought maybe I was receiving a little placebo effect so I tried to bounce a second gear wheelie, and it came up easier and faster then ever before on my first try.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
R6StangDriver said:
What numbers did you eventually end up setting your thingy to??
New numbers were all +3 from the original

C1: 3
C2: -3
C3: 3
C4: -7

Since my soggy test ride the first day I was going to reduce each one by -1 today but since my ride to work was better I think I will keep them. If I ever get it on a dyno I will do a better tune.
 

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We get the Euro R6 over here, there is no wire at pin 27 & 29. But wait, I was able to get to the Co menu without splicing and shorting anything at all, able to change toggle the value and the new value is registered and retained after restarting bike :hump

Add: Back from a spin around the streets, impression is that the bike is smoother in the low to mid range, hesitation in the low rpms is reduced. Swopped back and forth the settings along the way, the differences are definately real but subtle, more pronounced in the low/mids, but hard to tell in the high rpm because I do not have any highways nearby for some high speed top gear roll ons.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thwwx said:
Back from a spin around the streets, impression is that the bike is smoother in the low to mid range, hesitation in the low rpms is reduced. Swopped back and forth the settings along the way, the differences are definately real but subtle, more pronounced in the low/mids, but hard to tell in the high rpm because I do not have any highways nearby for some high speed top gear roll ons.
Another satisfied customer
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thwwx said:
We get the Euro R6 over here, there is no wire at pin 27 & 29. But wait, I was able to get to the Co menu without splicing and shorting anything at all, able to change toggle the value and the new value is registered and retained after restarting bike
Another reason why the Euro R6 is better... :curse
 

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great job man. I am gonna do it before my ride this weekend. Thanks to the persone who started the other post and thanks to ochlocracy for finishing this and sharing with everyone. :bowdown
 
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