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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How to: remove the stock exhaust Sensor + exup) (R6 2006)

Hi everyone, here is another version in order to help anyone who needs to remove his stock exhaust on a yamaha R6 2006. Some parts have been already explained, so i just made a small and modest contribution on what i have done on my own this afternoon. Don't hesitate to give me your comments so i can complete it.

Pre-requirements:
This is only applicable for a yamaha R6 2006 if you will install a full aftermarket exhaust system in place of the stock one. In my case, i will install a power commander, so in that case, i have also unplugged the O2 sensor (not recommended if you don't have a PC). As already mentionned, some aftermarket exhaust can have the whole to plug the O2 sensor, so it's up to you to plug it back if you don't use any PC.


Preparation:
The easiest way to access everything is to remove all the fairing. As it's not really complicated, i don't have made pictures... just remove the screws one by one... and avoid to make any scratch on each part. The bike is ready...




Stock Canister & Exup cables:

First of all, remove the black cover on the stock exhaust (hold by 3 screws).



You will see the two cables used for the exup system, just unscrew the 4 nuts indicated by a red arrow in the image below, take out the 2 cables from the canister.



Once done, just remove the screw under the rearset that maintained the canister and remove the "collar" shown on the next picture



The stock canister will come very easy...



Now, you just need to unplug the two cables for the exup system motor behind the rear shock. Unscrew the rearsets and the brake fluid tank, so you can easily access the exup motor, just remove the two screws right/left behind the rear shock.



Just try to move the motor in order to access the cables



After opening the small cover in rubber, then just remove the cables from the end.





That's it: your exup cable is unplugged and the exup motor is still connected, so you will not get any error code at the start (tested).


O2 Sensor:

As already mentionned, only unplug the O2 sensor if you have planned to install a Power Commander with your new exhaust system.
In order to unplug it correctly, you need to access the space below the tank. Remove the two covers under the tank and move the tank.



I am using a piece of wood to keep the tank stable, but i have already seen other nice solutions with some elastics... Mine is working fine (also to access the air filter)



Just touch the cable for the O2 sensor, it's the one that comes into the big 'box' of your exhaust. Just follow the cable until the top, and you will see where it goes under the tank.



Just unplug it.


Stock Collector etc..:

Now it's the removal of the collector, remove the 8 screws. In order to access at the screws in the middle, just remove the screw of the radiator so, you can move it a little bit to access the screws.
The "exaust box" is maintained by 2 screws (left/right). After, it goes down directly.



Just spent two minutes to realize the weight of the stock exhaust... incredible...

it's finished.. just wait now for your new exhaust...



Is it not similar to a old trx now? :hattip

Ps: screenshot of the parts related to the exhaust

 

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Some aftermarket exhausts have the hole for the 0<sub>2</sub> sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Polak said:
Some aftermarket exhausts have the hole for the 0<sub>2</sub> sensor.
Thanks i have updated my post.
 

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hello,
i got a question. i noticed that under the collector box, theres a small hole. when the bike is running it leaks air out quite abit. is this normal? or should i plug it up.

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
d91709 said:
hello,
i got a question. i noticed that under the collector box, theres a small hole. when the bike is running it leaks air out quite abit. is this normal? or should i plug it up.

thanks
Do you speak about the hole for the 02 sensor plug or something else? A picture will be helpful
 

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d91709 said:
hello,
i got a question. i noticed that under the collector box, theres a small hole. when the bike is running it leaks air out quite abit. is this normal? or should i plug it up.

thanks
Thats for condensation - water to drain out if it collects in the pipe..
 

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i lost tremendous low end power upon disconnecting my EXUP cables i wouldnt recommend it. i have to revv the crap out of the bike to do FREEWAY wheelies in 2nd gear. the bike doesnt sounds as nice also.

EXUP is coming back in.
 

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XcessiveR6 said:
i lost tremendous low end power upon disconnecting my EXUP cables i wouldnt recommend it. i have to revv the crap out of the bike to do FREEWAY wheelies in 2nd gear. the bike doesnt sounds as nice also.

EXUP is coming back in.
I stand to be corrected, but I believe you should remove the Exup Valve too when disconnecting the cables or else it is permanently closed, which is why you need to rev the tits off your bike to get it to do anything. :2cents
 

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may i check, which cable from the servo leads to which part of the exup valve? there's indication 1 & 2 on the servo. does cable 1 goes to the inner part of the exup pulley (nearer to the swingarm) or outter part (away from the swingarm)?
 

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HOW TO: FOOL ECU FOR EXUP REMOVAL

I got sick of seeing and hearing my servo motor after I installed my slip-on, so I decided to do a little investigating. I took out my stock servo motor and took it apart. (pics will follow later). Lo and behold, there's nothing to it at all! Its a potentometer and a small DC motor.

I read on the web that the R1 can either use a 7.5K Ohm resistor or a jumper wire between the outside wires and the bike will be fooled in all but the coasting / clutch pulled in position. This still causes erratic tach behavior, but keeps the CEL from coming on.

I checked the resistance in all ranges and across all three inputs on the R6 and found that the Ohms were different (around 10.2K outside, and between 4.8 - 5.7 both middle and outstide inputs. Duh, the outside is twice the inside amounts, I just wanted to confirm this)

Here's how I tricked the ECU into thinking Servo is still there.

1st attempt was to jumper the outside wires with a 10K Ohm resistor...no luck the CEL came on and I had to goto 62 in Diag and reset it.

2nd attempt was to jumper two 4.7K Ohms resistors between left and middle and right and middle...again no luck.

3rd time was the charm, 10K Ohms between the outsides, and two 4.7K Ohms between Left - Middle - Right and perfecto!!!

I went into Diag and ran line 53 to check servo, light flashed twice to test and no CEL!
I went into line 62 to check for errors , and NONE!

Bike rides / runs perfectly and I didn't spend $100 on some EXUP Servo eliminator or whatever!

**** I know this is alot of inside, outside, etc... I'll post picks later to explain better.
 
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