[saefirebird]

FOR KIT PRICES, PLEASE SEND A PM TO APH OR SAEFIREBIRD, OR EMAIL [email protected] OR [email protected]

Basic Kit

A. High Beam Side Low Beam Light (with bulb)
B. Low Beam Side Low Beam Light (with bulb)
C. Wire
D. Quick Disconnects for Low Beam Lights
E. Butt Connectors (2 Large, 2 Small)
F. Set Screws
G. Grommets


Premium Kit

A. High Beam Side Low Beam Light (with bulb)
B. Low Beam Side Low Beam Light (with bulb)
C. Quick Disconnects for Low Beam Lights
D. Heat Shrink Tubing
E. Set Screws
F. On/Off Switch to control Low Beam Lights
G. Butt Connectors (2 Large, 2 Small)
H. Grommets
I. Wire

Here is a basic schematic for the wiring of the headlight assembly.

1.) Remove headlight assembly.

2.) Remove outer lens by placing headlight assembly in oven. (Place in oven at 250 for 3-4 minutes.)

3.) Remove projectors by unscrewing headlight adjustment screws.

4.) Drill a 9/32 - 19/64 hole in housing assembly on each side right at curved portion about 1" in.

5.) Cut small notch out of housing above ram air

6.) Cut 4 pieces of 16 ga. electrical wire and place grommet on each end.

7.) Install grommets and feed wire through assembly. (NOTE: Feed wire so that quick disconnects already mounted are on the high beam side of the assembly)

8.) Cut low-beam factory plug inside of housing in approximately the middle.

9.) Splice the low-beam factory plug into two of the wires in housing (Use large butt connector). These will become the wires for the low-beam light on the low-beam side.

*OPTIONAL FOR SWITCH* Solder one wire from the OEM plug to one lead on switch. Connect another piece of wire to the other lead on switch and splice into low-beam wires. (AS SHOWN IN PICTURE ABOVE)

10.) Connect quick disconnect adapters to low-beam wires (Use small butt connectors). This is the low-beam plug on the low-beam side.

11.) Quick disconnects are already mounted on wires on high beam side of assembly. These are the low beam wires on the high-beam side.

12.) On low-beam side, attach the OEM H7 plug to the remaining two wires. This is now the high beam wiring/plug on the low-beam side.

13.) On high-beam side, cut high-beam factory plug in approximately the middle.

14.) Splice the high-beam factory plug into the two high beam wires in the housing (Use large butt connector).

15.) Attach the OEM H7 plug. This is now the high beam plug on the high beam side.

16.) Remove the three gold screws holding the projector together.

17.) Insert low-beam housing into projector. (Make sure to insert the shorter low-beam housing with the bracket on it inside of the high-beam side projector.)

18.) Drill small hole for set screw into bottom of projector to hold the low-beam housing in place. Install set screw. (Make sure you do set the screw to far in and poke through the low-beam housing. Although the screw not visible, you can use a black sharpie to color the screw so it blends in more).

**THIS STEP WILL BE REPLACED AND LOW BEAM LIGHTS WILL BE MOUNTED IN PROJECTOR USING JB WELD KWIK SET** (Picture will be posted)

19.) Drill small hole for the low-beam wires to slip through when projector is reassembled.

20.) Slip wires from low-beam light through the hole, and reassemble projector.

21.) Repeat steps 16-20 for other projector.

22.) With projectors reassembled, and low-beam housings in place, reinstall the projectors into the housing assembly.

23.) For proper alignment of headlights, adjust the top screws so approximately 1/4" of the screw is visible on front side. Adjust the side/lower screws so approximately 5/8" of the screw is visible.

24.) Reinstall outer lenses (optional, use black permatex silicone for an added or sealant in addition to the OEM glue/adhesive) and push them into place as much as possible.

25.) Reheat glue in oven (250 for 3-4 minutes), and push lenses completely inside of housing (how it was before you took them apart).

26.) Crimp with pliers along the edges of the seal to insure that the seal is tight.

27.) Reinstall headlight.

28.) Adjust headlights as needed.

*When connecting the wires, you do not need to worry about polarity. (You can connect to either wire).

** It is recommended that all connections should be soldered and covered in heat-shrink tubing for insulation.

*** Please test both lights with a 12V power supply before completely installing the kit / assembly incase the bulbs were damaged during shipping.

**** Do not touch the glass part of the bulbs as the oils from your skin can damage the bulb. If you accidentally touch the bulbs, please wipe them of with rubbing alcohol and let dry before installing/testing.

*****If you live in a humid/wet climate or plan on riding in the rain the premium kit is recommended. It is important to have the housing as waterproof as possible because if water enters the housing it can damage the lenses and cause the center lenses to crack. (Cold water + hot glass = shatter). So if you were to encounter rain and were unsure of the quality of the resealed assembly, just to be safe shut off the low beams until the rain stops and your bike is dry.

*******All parts come with a 1 year excluding bulbs. If anything should happen to any of the parts included in the kit, they will be replaced free of charge (you will have to pay for shipping costs only). If bulbs are damaged upon arrival, they will be replaced free of charge.

********The kit has been tested for an overload/short. The 20A fuse in the fuse panel will blow before any damage can be done to any wiring. Low Beams were tested outside of the assembly at 4 hour intervals for potential heat damage to the lenses and overloads, the high beams were overloaded/shorted while assembled and on the bike.

*********It is recommended that you change the flat lens to a curved len, so all 4 lenses are curved. If you cannot acquire a 4th curved lens, swap the lenses to find a setup you like best (PRIOR TO RE-INSTALLING THE OUTER LENSES)

.....FINISHED PRODUCT.....

NO BEAMS......

LOW BEAMS.....

LOW BEAMS & HIGH BEAMS......

HIGH BEAMS........

Any questions....contact SAEFIREBIRD or APH.

 

[Ratheon]

well done guys

 

[thenightcrawler]

great effort! very detailed

 

[Wessinger03R6]

How much to just pay you to do it?

 

[stphnman20]

Well about time! nah j/k. great job guys.

 

[riggz]

wow that how to was intense! lol. great job! my only concern is... if you have a bulb burn out in the low beams, you have to remove the entire assembly again?

also can you still use the sheilds to create that cut off line?

 

[saefirebird]

With a bulb burnout, you would have to take off the headlight assembly, open it up and pull out the projector to change the bulb. (But even with highbimmin you have to take off your assembly and mail it off to him to get it changed, at least this one you can do yourself).

Aph has been running his for about 2200 miles now and hasn't had issues with bulb burnout yet, he even had some water in his housing due to it not being sealed properly.

For the cut off lines, you wouldn't be able to use the stock ones for two reasons:
1.) They normally break when you take them out.....
2.) (if they are still salvagable) The shields curve in towards the bulb. We haven't tried, but due to clearance, they would hit the bulbs. The option we tossed around was to use a flat piece of metal (paint it black with high temp paint) and install that in the low-beam lights to create the cut-off lines.

 

[riggz]

how did the flat piece of metal work out?

 

[saefirebird]

how did the flat piece of metal work out?

We didnt' try it out. We tossed the idea around, but overall we were both happy with the finished product without the cutoff lines.

 

[aph]

As saefirebird suggested, I can take some feelers for me doing the install. PM me and we can talk about it, I really need to see how long it takes me to do it before I figure out what to charge, I was thinking 50-65$ range. This week I will be busy shipping kits out, so wouldnt be able to happen till next week.

 

[davebluer6]

Thank you so much Aph. Is very great that you make all this. Thank You again!:worship


Now, what's about a angel eye kit? :thumbup

You can do it. I'm sure
:rockon

 

[HighBimminR6]

6.) Cut 4 pieces of 16 ga. electrical wire and place grommet on each end.

You should use 14g. Each side on your headlight is running 110 watts. The specs for 16g are up to 69 watts. The specs for 14g are up to 109 watts which is close enough to 110.

 

[ohm4life911]

ah i'm too lazy to do this, and plus Highbimmins conversion is TIGHT!!!!!!!

I got it and its pimp, hahha i love it. I got my headlight back and put it on the same day and started riding............i would consider getting High Bimmin's and pay an extra $300ish to do everything........

 

[aph]

Thank you so much Aph. Is very great that you make all this. Thank You again!:worship


Now, what's about a angel eye kit? :thumbup

You can do it. I'm sure
:rockon

Hey Dave! Thanks for the kind words! I am working very hard and it is WONDERFUL to hear things like that.

Sadly I can't see angel eyes happening in the near future. After this I have a couple other projects that need to be a priority.

Thanks again!

 

[saefirebird]

Highbimmins conversion is TIGHT!!!!!!!

Yeah, Highbimmins conversion does look very nice can't deny that. I also like the stock look of this conversion though.

ah i'm too lazy to do this

For those of you that are not mechanically inclined or too lazy to perform this mod, either one of us would be willing to mod the headlight for you for a small fee.

i would consider getting High Bimmin's and pay an extra $300ish to do everything........

Even with installation costs, this would still be an inexpensive mod. Total WITH install would still be less than $200.

I got my headlight back and put it on the same day and started riding....

Turn around time would be the same day or next day back in the mail. So you wouldn't be without a headlight very long. PM either of us for details.

 

[saefirebird]

You should use 14g. Each side on your headlight is running 110 watts. The specs for 16g are up to 69 watts. The specs for 14g are up to 109 watts which is close enough to 110.

Information gathered from Phillips Manual:

Wire Gauge Selection Chart

Using Ohm's Law, we can determine the maximum wattage capacity for wire.

E = I x R or V = I x R

Whereas E (V) equals voltage;
and I is equal to current in Amps;
and R is equal to Resistance.

Assuming we are using a 12V Power Source (i.e. Motorcycle Battery), and the current limit is set at 20 Amps (determined by OEM Yamaha/20A Rated Fuse), we can determine that the maximum Watts that can be carried from the battery, or fuse panel, to the most distant lamp (at 10 Ft of 16G wire) is 240 Watts. (Please refer to Wire Gauge Selection Chart for more information)

In this kit, we use approximately 1 foot of 16G wire and a maximum of 110 Watts (2 bulbs at 55W each).

Handy Wattage Calculator

http://www.electrician.com/resist_calc/watts.htm

*While we could have performed this modification using smaller gauge wire, we felt it necessary and safe to match the OEM wiring for this kit.

**In order to produce a safe and quality product we consulted two engineers with decades of experience in this specific field. If you feel uncomfortable with the information that we have compiled from Phillips, and using Ohm's Law, we can direct you to either of the engineers. We don't want to publish their number publicly, but we are more than happy to relay it to you if you have any concerns.

 

[Gator Kev]

Thank you so much Aph. Is very great that you make all this. Thank You again!:worship

Now, what's about a angel eye kit? :thumbup

You can do it. I'm sure
:rockon

Well myself and saefirebird both are getting the Clegg's Angel Eyes done by Steve Clegg. I beleive they only go for around $100 and come with detailed instructions for installation. It is a lot of work to do the Angel Eyes and $100 is a good price for what is involved. We will both post pics and let you know how it goes but I think that they will be a great product.

 

[nowak]

how about XEON lights? Are there conceptions how to do it? I've already seen one with BMW 3er conversion... any other ideas?

 

[saefirebird]

Well myself and saefirebird both are getting the Clegg's Angel Eyes done by Steve Clegg. I beleive they only go for around $100 and come with detailed instructions for installation. It is a lot of work to do the Angel Eyes and $100 is a good price for what is involved. We will both post pics and let you know how it goes but I think that they will be a great product.

Gator Kev will be having Angel Eyes installed on his stock headlight, and I will be having Angel Eyes installed on my modded headlight. We should have some info on both (stock and modded) for you guys on how they work and some pics.

Steve Cleggs seemed like a nice guy on the phone and stands behind his product. This will set the record straight. I will be posting pics once I have them done so you can see how they look, and also after using them for a while, I will post some more pics.

 

[ohm4life911]

Yeah, Highbimmins conversion does look very nice can't deny that. I also like the stock look of this conversion though.





For those of you that are not mechanically inclined or too lazy to perform this mod, either one of us would be willing to mod the headlight for you for a small fee.





Even with installation costs, this would still be an inexpensive mod. Total WITH install would still be less than $200.





Turn around time would be the same day or next day back in the mail. So you wouldn't be without a headlight very long. PM either of us for details.

lol damn man just tore up all my posts in quotes huh hahahaahah

iono i might do this conversion as well........do both keep this just for the hell of it for now.......