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SO SINCE MY BATTERY HAS DIES A FEW MORE TIMES THAN IT SHOULD HAVE (LOST COUNT OF HOW MANY) SO IT WILL NOT BE CHARGING RIGHT I GUESS WITH A VOLTMETER I GET 12.84 AFTER CHARGING ALL NIGHT ON THE TRICKLE CHARGER AND 13.32-13.36 WHEN RUNNING SO IS IT MY BATTERY OR STATER ALL R/R PLUG GOOD AND NONE BURNED OUT ANY THOUGHTS
 

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Where can I purchase the 5 pin plug? I am having no luck finding it anywhere.
 

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My whole plug fried so i cut the entire harness. My only problem is that I'm not sure which white wires go to which prongs. Does this matter; i'm assuming that only the neg and pos wires need to go in their space and the whites are interchangeable? can someone back this up?
 

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Thanks

Just wanted to say thanks to the forum for saving me a huge headache. I have a 99 R6 with an 02 tail. I was stopped at a light when I experienced all the symptoms at once. When I got done pushing her home, I started trickle charging my battery (ended up taking 6 hours at 1.5 amps). While the battery was charging I fixed the connector as per the original post (using the female spade). I used the connectors from Autozone (I think they were locktite). Anyway the connectors had heatshrink tubing preattached that made a really clean look and waterproof. I also tightened the other connectors as per a suggestion further on and I filed the spades on the R/R to get them nice and shinny. I used bulb grease to keep the connections from oxidizing and keep them clean. I also hit up the stator side and the connector for the starter relay. All I can say is ...man I should have done that when i got the bike. It is much more responsive, sounds cleaner, idles better, lights are def brighter, and it wasn't a very painful process. And one more thing. I went ahead and hacked up a voltage meter I had laying around and mounted it up on the handlebars with alligator clips to the steel brake runner and the brake positive side. The voltage with the key on and not running was about 11.9, with the engine idling it was about 13.5, and above 4000rpms+ I was getting 14. Thanks again.
 

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My whole plug fried so i cut the entire harness. My only problem is that I'm not sure which white wires go to which prongs. Does this matter; i'm assuming that only the neg and pos wires need to go in their space and the whites are interchangeable? can someone back this up?
Yes the white wires can be switched around on the bottom 3 male terminals.

only the + and - wires matter like you said.
 

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I'm having a problem removing the plug from the rectifier, as it seems that I'm not applying enough pressure to the plastic locking thing that locks the two together. Maybe the plug is fried where it melted the two together?

Any suggesstions would be helpful!!! Thanks!
 

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replaced stator and R/R, than ECU fried

after replacing my stator and R/R and fixing the plugs I turned it on and noticed the wires geting hot again so I shut if off untill they cooled down and re cheked the whole charging system wiring everything looked fine so I went to turn it on again and was working fine for a minute when all of a sudden my ECU starts smoking and bike completely shuts off, whats crazy is that none of the fuses blew before this happend. What would cause this to happen? I check the ECU and thru the bottom there are two lil copper coils that melted thru...has anybody else experienced this delema. What the hell is going on with this charging system on these models? Some one help I'm runing out of patience replacing one thing after an other.
 

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Just found out this plug was my problem to. Just got my R6 in late april 08 and my battery runs out of juice to the point where she wont start about every other month (r6 being my daily driver, bout 100mi daily). Key on i am getting bout 12.5 volts, while starting drops to bout 8 volts, and idle/revs is 12.5 again. Since I got my new battery after the last one completely died, I have noticed that about every two weeks, when starting the bike, she kicks over slower and slower. So I have been getting in the habit of using the trickle charger every couple weeks or so. Then I read this thread and checked my plug, and its fried!!! the one wire is completely burnt off. Im gonna fix the harness and check my voltage readings again.
 

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F%^*^ rectifier!

I had this problem on my '02 R6, fixed the wires because they were burnt to a crisp, burned the rectifier female connectors and the battery was swollen like an African casrcass. Almost two years later, same thing happens again, wires are burned to a crisp but no other damage. replace wires, bike starts, go for test drive. I heard a loud pop and the dreaded smell of burned wires. Tried to start again and the starter relay keeps going off like grandma's vibrator. checked the wire connections and they looked good. Could the wires have shorted somewhere else or do I have to look into new relay or something else?
 

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It seem's that the burnt rectifier plug is a comon problem, Im currently trying to deal with it. Fixed the plug and 4 days later the same thing happened. What I want to know is what the [email protected]#K is cousing it. They did not design it to burn up on purpose, and everyone says that they just redo the pluge and it works, no one says what coused it. I bet if someone knew what coused it, it would help prevent it.
 

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It seem's that the burnt rectifier plug is a comon problem, Im currently trying to deal with it. Fixed the plug and 4 days later the same thing happened. What I want to know is what the [email protected]#K is cousing it. They did not design it to burn up on purpose, and everyone says that they just redo the pluge and it works, no one says what coused it. I bet if someone knew what coused it, it would help prevent it.
Same here. I replaced mine in November and the wires burnt again yesterday. Makes me want to sell this damn bike. Mine's an 05 too.
 

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I got a surprise last weekend.... On the way home from lunch my bike backfired, light went out, blinkers stopped working, then then the speedo quit. 1/2 mile from home the tach stopped and it started belching. then it was over.

I'm pulling out the rectifier to check. 9,800 miles.
Fail.
 

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cause of rectifier problems

there was someone on here that said no one says why it happens, In responce to this when something burns it typically means it is from heat. The problem with the rectifier from doing some research is from the lack of proper placement of the unit, there is simply not enough cooling for it. Some people have relocated it to the front near the radiator not completley sure where. Some have dropped it thru the tray and remounted, and others have put fans. Everyone has their own way of fixing it but you probly ride your bike very hard so your rectifier is working very hard. It regulates how much current and converts ac to dc voltage on its return to the battery from the stator.

I found most info on ************** and they have links of explanations of how to place a fan on it, ultimately get rid of the heat get rid of the problem....I remember when I was really into computers there was a overclocked 3ghz processor to 5 ghz and they used liquid nitrogen in a tube to keep the cpu from getting hot, suprised nobody has given something like this a shot, I assume it wouldn't take much space to have something fabbed up to hold the liquid nitrogen and would provide excellent cooling. However I personally have no idea how long liquid nitrogen lasts.
 

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Thanks Jetted6 for posting this. I looked at the connection and 2 of the connectors were burnt. I followed you suggestion and the repair took a bit over an hour and the bike works fine now. I spent less than $90 for female plugs, dielectric grease and a new R/R. This helped me save another $150 for a service shop to do and maybe more on a whole new wire harness.
Now I got to change the plugs and air filter.
 

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I have an 04 with a recharge problem as well. I checked the rectifier plugs and they look fine and actually pretty clean. I threw some die-electric grease in there as maybe the connection is loose.

Where is the other plug I should check for melting? I looked under the gas tank and there were QUITE a few plugs under there. None of them looked corroded though.
 

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Its funny how everyone thinks replacing the plug and regulator is gonna solve the problem. Just give it a few weeks and you will be right back to square one.
who ever said to replace the R/R? it rearely goes bad.

but why dont you back up your statement with some substance...
on either this board or the old board someone posted a part number for this exact plug from somewhere like partsfish....i will try to find it for thise of you with really badly burnt plugs.
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