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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
tools neccesary:

10"mm socket wrench (small socket & wrench)
Dykes
female wire connector
screw driver

1.) remove brake fluid resivour (the screw, and move it out of your way)
2.) remove lower 10"mm bolt on the rectifier
3.) remove upper 10"mm bolt on the rectifier
4.) pull rectifier down and remove the wire connection
5.) use dykes to dig out, and cut a section out of the "fried" part of the connector.
6.) pull fried piece of metal off of the end of the wire.
7.) if the wire is in good condition, put the female connector on the wire. if the wire is bad, cut the tip of the wire and use a small portion of wire to make up for it.
8.) connect the wire connector and the new female end to the rectifier at the same time. push everything till you get a good connection.
9.) follow directions 4-1 and your finished.

attachments are as follows.
1.) modified connector
2.) another view of how the new connector fits.
3.) resivour removal
4.) rectifier removal
5.) finished product

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Great write up.

Since its such a common issue on our bikes, this will help a lot of riders out there.

:rockon :thumbup


and dammit, i been removing the rider's seat, and tank to get to the rectifier all this time :myfault :curse
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i removed the seat... rear fairings... and a lil bit of everything... then i found out how easy it actually was..

tip...

remove seat, and remove battery, and the first 2 bolts... that way you can move the tray around a little to easier get the bottom bolt.
 

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Ronin_R6 said:
theese are the female connectors you used I assume.


Ronin_r6 you're a great big plus to this forum.

You're :firstplac

You helped me out when my rectifier had gone out.

Thank You :smilecool
 

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i hear of u guys "removing this, and removing that" to get the rectifier off......

WHY???? nothing has to be removed people!!!....... i'll admit one bolt was a little harder than the other, but it doesnt justify removing half the stuff you've mentioned above.

just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i put that in tips... all you have to do is remove the 2 10mm bolts.. read it carefully first.. then flame.


i just used one female end... but the one on the right is it.
 

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HEY, I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY RECTIFIER AND IT FRIED AND MELTED HALF OF THE WIRE HARNESS. SHOULD I REPLACE THE RECTIFIER OR JUST CUT OUT THE MELTED PIECE OF HARNESS AND INSTALL A FEMALE CONNECTION TO THE MELTED WIRES.

THANKS,
JIM
[email protected]
 

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b111b222 said:
My question is why is it necessary to be replaced and does it affect all years of R6?
That's because the stock spade connectors are unusually loose and tend to fry the harness from the heat generated by contact resistance. This write up by Ronin is to describe a fix without having to purchase a new plug (rare). If your plug is still good, this situation can be totally avoided by pulling the plug out and prying the female end of the individual connectors to make them grip tighter on the male ends. Then shove it back onto the rectifier, it'll be a bitch to shove in, but you know it is fukking tight now. If you have some good conducting grease (NOT silicon/dielectric grease), smear some on the contacts, it will help. FYI, my stock harness was so loose that it will slide right out if you push the catch, that's BAD considering the magneto is pushing out 300W (21Amps at 14V) through that tiny loose fitting +/- connector, small wonder it frys.

There's another junction that's problematic, and that's the 3 prong connector between the magneto coil and rest of the harness, lift the tank and do the same.

2yrs in the tropics, including riding in wet/rain, my connector is still fine.
 

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JDRR62002 said:
HEY, I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY RECTIFIER AND IT FRIED AND MELTED HALF OF THE WIRE HARNESS. SHOULD I REPLACE THE RECTIFIER OR JUST CUT OUT THE MELTED PIECE OF HARNESS AND INSTALL A FEMALE CONNECTION TO THE MELTED WIRES.

THANKS,
JIM
[email protected]
just replace the wires. from the 3 pin white plug under the tank (as mentioned) to the R/R with new female connectors. That should fix your problem.


b111b222 said:
My question is why is it necessary to be replaced and does it affect all years of R6?
they burn to a crisp and no longer make contact, and thus the battery does not charge the battery.

It is much more common on the 99-02 bikes, but is still possible on the others
 

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Its funny how everyone thinks replacing the plug and regulator is gonna solve the problem. Just give it a few weeks and you will be right back to square one.
 

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Rhymesayer said:
Its funny how everyone thinks replacing the plug and regulator is gonna solve the problem. Just give it a few weeks and you will be right back to square one.
who ever said to replace the R/R? it rearely goes bad.

but why dont you back up your statement with some substance...
 

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Ronin_R6 said:
who ever said to replace the R/R? it rearely goes bad.

but why dont you back up your statement with some substance...
Not true. They go bad quite frequently. In the stock location they tend to overheat because they dont get enough air. Notice where the 600rr has theirs mounted. Right in front near the radiator. The 03 regulator was redesigned and cools much easier. The best mod you could do for the 99-02s is use the 03-05 regulator and mount it up under the battery box near the edge to draw in a lot more air. You will notice the difference just buy feel. Also with the plug you dont always get a good connection so the spades are much better to use than another plug. I have gone through numerous burnt plugs and such and after I did that not a single issue. I have typed this many times and just dont like to keep repeating myself. Again this is prooved so you can argue it all you want but sit back and think about what your doing. Replacing the plug? I mean come on it doesnt take a genious to figure out replacing a piece of plastic will not solve the problem. Is that enough substance for ya?
 

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Rhymesayer said:
Not true. They go bad quite frequently. In the stock location they tend to overheat because they dont get enough air. Notice where the 600rr has theirs mounted. Right in front near the radiator. The 03 regulator was redesigned and cools much easier. The best mod you could do for the 99-02s is use the 03-05 regulator and mount it up under the battery box near the edge to draw in a lot more air. You will notice the difference just buy feel. Also with the plug you dont always get a good connection so the spades are much better to use than another plug. I have gone through numerous burnt plugs and such and after I did that not a single issue. I have typed this many times and just dont like to keep repeating myself. Again this is prooved so you can argue it all you want but sit back and think about what your doing. Replacing the plug? I mean come on it doesnt take a genious to figure out replacing a piece of plastic will not solve the problem. Is that enough substance for ya?
2 yrs and going strong for mine. I guess mine's a production reject, the autodestruct feature failed. Mine's an 03, last I checked, people are still frying the plugs regardless, the RR is fine mostly, the plugs fry from contact resistance.
 

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Did you not read the thread?

NO one in this thread has recommended to get a new plastic plug. I think i am the biggest opponent to replacing the OEM R/R plug with another one of the same. I just had this argument last week over this.

And The R/R rarely go bad on R6s. the platic connector gets hot and fries before the R/R gets hot and fries, so the R/Rs rarely go bad bad because the plug fails first.
 

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So I was having this exact problem, pull my rectifier off and found my connector melted to the rectifier assembly and the green wirer completely burned off. what should i do? I really need a whole new connector. I think i have the worst case scenario. this sucks. :mad: Any help would be good. thanks
 

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What size connector did you use? Also, do you know what gauge the wire is? It looks like it's a 12 or 10 gauge but im not certain.

By the way, although I'm sure you've heard it enough at this point, thanks very much for taking the time to put together that detailed "how to". Although it is a very simple process, until you actually do it, the pictures are extremely helpful. Also, anyone who was able to get those rectifier bolts off without using a special rachet, or removing anything from the bike must have some munchkin hands!

thanks
 
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