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^ so what other parts should i replace? and i dont see a gasket which some people said to replace...
 

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RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT
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694 Posts
I would replace all the small moving stuff. All springs, the small oil seal, I think the collar is plastic. You dont need to, but while your in there, what the hell. The lever assembly and shift shaft should be fine unless you find some damage there for some reason.

You most likely will need a gasket. Its under the dropdown 'crankase cover 1' I think.
 

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If this spring breaks does it rattle while the engine is running? I just got a bike that rattles a little bit, but starts and idles fine. the guy who had it before me said it happened while getting on the freeway, accel thru 1st, shift into second, hear some rattle, pull clutch in and it went away, try to get back into gear and accel more and said it sounded like the rattle got louder so he cut it and hadn't run it since(aside from starting it up so i could hear). Its pretty quite but something is off.

Tyler
 

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WERA#39
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338 Posts
yep, that damn part cost me a race at RRR a few years ago. Leading the race at the halfway point, 165mph going into T1, go to catch my downshifts, and NOTHING happened. Scared the absolute shit outta me. I just pulled in the clutch and prayed to god that i could use JUST front brakes to get me slowed enough to make the turn. I did, and got the DNF on a mechanical. Once i figured out what was wrong, 10 mins and the problem was fixed. Ive still got a few extra springs in my spares box, even tho i dont have the bike anymore.

Since i didnt have the replacement spring at the track, i used a spring off my exhaust system for the rest of the weekend w/o any problems. Got home and ordered the new ones.
 

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Mr. Cycle

Just got my parts in from mr.cycle. The part numbers are 90506-14003-00 tension spring (main detent spring). 5EB-15463-00-00 for the gasket replacement. And 90508-295B2-00 for the torsion spring (the big spring pictured) They ship fast and the fix is well worth doing, even for an upgrade when you have some free time.
 

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Broken Spring

I would just like to say thanks to you guys for the guide here. When my 02 R6 kept giving false neutrals, I feared the wost. Broken gearbox, shitloads of cash.

I saw the guide here, took my bike top bits and found a broken spring! :hyper

Now it rides like new!

Thanks for this great info. :bowdown
 

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If you don't want to change your fluid, how do you keep it from coming out? Do you have to tilt the bike while you do the install?

I've had my spring for a while and it's sitting here, because I don't want to change the fluids, then a month or two change them again. (for the winter)
 

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Just to kinda clarify before I start ripping my faring off :p

My bike will start and run fine. It's in gorgeous condition for it's age (1999 with 16,500 miles)

For some absolutely random reason, when I started my bike after riding, it runs fine, when I go to clutch in, down in to first before moving off, it lurches forwards and stalls, as if the clutch wasn't pulled in at all.

The clutch cable and lever feel okay, and I moved the adjuster so it was biting further out but to no avail, it hardly fixed it and was nearly so bad I couldn't ride - I only had to go 200 metres so slipped it back into neutral when I needed to slow down!

Do you guys think that this is the problem?
 

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had the same problem on my 99 r6 and was very happy to find the detent spring broken, followed the same how- to and now its a champ again:thumbup (thanks to r6messagenet), believe me youd want it to be the detent spring problem bcoz if it is anything else could be expensive, if it is then make sure you order for the oil seal or packing whatever its called along with the spring.

overall from the symptoms u are having i would say its the detent spring
 

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Hey,guys. Do these symptoms sound like the spring could be my prob. The bike goes to the dealer on tues, and if the majority thinks its a high probability, I'm gonna tear it down.
For the record, here are the symptoms:
The clutch works, I can go into 1st and take off. As soon as I want to upshift, it goes into neutral. BUT, if I reach down with my hand and pull up on the gear selector, I can go 2-3-4-5-6 no prob. (I know that's not good, but it was only for about a mile). All the gears work, the clutch is working. Just as soon as I come out of first, it I can't click up to 2nd or any other higher gear, just goes to neutral. But, as stated above, if I reach down with my hand and pull up, I can get it into gear
 

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Just had mine break yesterday on me... I am glad it was only 1/2 mile from home.

I made two down shifts and made a left hand turn on to my street and as I tried to get back on the gas (2nd gear I think) the bike acted like it was in neutral and just wouldn't go into gear. I am glad I wasnt taking the corner all that fast.

Part ordered... Sucks that its $8 shipping for a .74 part that weighs a few grams though.

BTW, the part number for the gasket is;

Under "CRANKCASE COVER 1"
GASKET, CARBURETOR
5EB-15463-00-00
 
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