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I'm having a problem of the new tubing getting kinked when it's routed to the AIS tube...any fix for that or just find re-inforced tubing?
 

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thrak, I recently removed my AIS, and so I can't really perform this mod t4raditioanlly. I'm interested in the way you were talking about with a catch can. Couple questions:
1. Got any pics of your setup?
2. Where would be ideal to mount it (the can)?
3. any idea on size/volume of the can?

I like the idea of keeping the hot oily air out of the airbox, but I'm not very experienced in engine tinkering yet. Thanks in advance for your two cents!!
 

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Are there any disadvantages to doing this modification? Will it cause error codes to come up on an 05 R6?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
epiphone3 said:
Are there any disadvantages to doing this modification? Will it cause error codes to come up on an 05 R6?
It will not cause any error codes. I do not know of any disadvantages.
 

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the only disadvantage i can think off is that you'll have to spend some money on tubing, hose couplers, caps, and spending time at home depot.:)
 

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I might give this a shot this weekend
 

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Air injection
The air induction system burns unburned exhaust
gases by injecting fresh air (secondary air)
into the exhaust port, reducing the emission of
hydrocarbons. When there is negative pressure
at the exhaust port, the reed valve opens, allowing
secondary air to flow into the exhaust port.
The required temperature for burning the unburned
exhaust gases is approximately 600 to
700 °C (1112 to 1292 °F).
Air cut-off valve
The air cut-off valve is controlled by the signals
from the ECU in accordance with the combustion
conditions. Ordinarily, the air cut-off valve
opens to allow the air to flow during idle and
closes to cut-off the flow when the vehicle is being
driven. However, if the coolant temperature
is below the specified value, the air cut-off valve
remains open and allows the air to flow into the
exhaust pipe assembly until the temperature becomes
higher than the specified value.


that is a direct copy and past from the 06 r6 service manual pdf under air induction system. if the ais system is hooked up like the mod says with the cut off valve installed, then this mod would only provide gains when you are at idle and under operating temperature. am i correct or just mistaken? if this mod is to make gains wouldnt you want to either remove the cut off valve and install a t connecting to the exhaust portion and use the reed valves to keep the exhaust from going into the crankcase. or make it so the cut off valve is allways open, can anyone confirm if the cut off valve is normally closed or normally when voltage is not present? if it is normally open then u must disconnect the connector going to this cutoff valve.
 

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Sounds like the cut-off valve could be a bit of a hinder if its cutting off the vacuum from the exhaust port.
Is it because this cut -off valve that the AIS seems to cause the popping noises on decel when the RPM gets below 6,000? Maybe this is when it opens, and introduces the air into the exhaust.
So to do this pcv mod. The pcv hose would have to attach between the cut off valve and the exhaust port, not between the cut-off valve and the airbox right?
In that case, the exhaust better have negative pressure at all times.
 

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For now my AIS is just blocked off. How bad is decel popping when crankcase breather is hooked to AIS? I would imagine there wouldn't be a whole lot of popping since it's not fresh air being pumped into the headers, but I figured I'd ask.

Also, I'm going to replace the AIS solnoid with a T-pipe so that there is a constant draw on the crankcase breather. I'll report back with what happens later on... for now I'm wrestling with the damn heat shield :curse
 

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I'm not sure that this mod did much of anything. I think it pulls a little more in the midrange, but the butt dyno isn't very sensitive.

When I first started up my bike, it was completely cold, and as I was letting it warm up I gave the engine a couple revs, maybe to 4k - 6k RPMs. I let it idle again and it died. Not really sure why. It's run fine since I've taken it out though.
 

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Figured I'd give a little update...

5 months with this mod and no ill effects. When I take the oil dipstick out and put my finger over the hole I can feel the vacuum. Airbox definitely stays cleaner now.
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread guys!

I just installed a crankcase breather on my 2000 R6, it's alleviated the problem of stalling when idle (apparently the bike's been down on one side when running so too much backpressure is present at idle now). But there's so much damn smoke when i stop at lights! It looks like i'm on Del boy's robin reliant!

Will this mod fix the smoke factor for me? :)

-Mark
 

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I am looking into doing this PCV mod, but between this thread and the AIS removal thread I have become confused.

I have decel popping with my Devil slip-on, so I want to block off the fresh air introduced into the exhaust when I let off the throttle. However, I also want to vent my crank case some where other than the air box. A catch can sounds like the best method so far, but that would not yield a negative vacuum. So, what is the best alternative to vent the crank case in a place other than the air box, while still having a negative vacuum?

Could I vent the crank case to the hoses that come off of the Reed Covers by using a Y or T connector? If I do this, then should I remove the Reeds or not? Someone mentioned that if the Reeds were removed, then you would have unburned fuel, hot air, etc. feeding back into the crank case, which sounds bad to me. On the other hand, if I leave the Reeds in there, then they will become clogged with oil, correct? Any input would be appreciated.
 

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Here is the long awaited "How To" for the Crank Case Breather Modification. This modification vents the Crank Case into the AIS. This will only work if you still have the AIS, if you removed it this modification cant be done. I have rode with this modification since I got my 2004 R6, it was done by a race mechanic for me. I just removed it because I needed to do a complete AIS removal because of deceleration popping with my new full Hindle exhaust system. I have had no problems with this modification, it has been done to many bikes by my race mechanic and many other mechanics without any issues. This modification has shown 1-2 hp increase on the dyno, no BS! If you want to know more about this modification, read these comments.

You will need:
2 - 1/2 inch caps sold at your local auto parts store
2 - hose clamp to secure the cap
Approximately 14 inches of 1/2 inch tubing
1 - tubing connector for 1/2 inch tubing above (may use a piece of pipe)

1. Remove or prop up gas tank


2. Remove the gray AIS hose on the left


3. Place a cap with hose clamp on the outlet


4. Remove the gray hose from both the crank case and the airbox
(mines black)


5. Place a cap and hose clamp on the airbox where you removed
the gray hose from #4 (the pic shows the cap, but no clamp)


6. Connect the piece of (14 inch ) tubing to the crank case, retain
hose clamp from removed hose (I used clear for illustration purposes)


7. Route the tubing from the crank case along the side of the frame
to the gray AIS hose you removed in #2. Cut 1 -2 inches off the gray
AIS hose to remove the molded bend. Install your tubing connector
in the gray AIS hose. Cut the excess tubing you ran from the crank
case and connect the two tubes. (mines gray and clear) (air box
removal isn't necessary, had it off to do something else)


8. Make sure everything is connected and clears when the tank is
down. Bolt down the gas tank and your done! :woot Treat yourself to a :beermug or :beermug :beermug :beermug :thumbup


© Copyright 2005 - R6Messagenet.com - All rights reserved.
Here is the long awaited "How To" for the Crank Case Breather Modification. This modification vents the Crank Case into the AIS. This will only work if you still have the AIS, if you removed it this modification cant be done. I have rode with this modification since I got my 2004 R6, it was done by a race mechanic for me. I just removed it because I needed to do a complete AIS removal because of deceleration popping with my new full Hindle exhaust system. I have had no problems with this modification, it has been done to many bikes by my race mechanic and many other mechanics without any issues. This modification has shown 1-2 hp increase on the dyno, no BS! If you want to know more about this modification, read these comments.

You will need:
2 - 1/2 inch caps sold at your local auto parts store
2 - hose clamp to secure the cap
Approximately 14 inches of 1/2 inch tubing
1 - tubing connector for 1/2 inch tubing above (may use a piece of pipe)

1. Remove or prop up gas tank


2. Remove the gray AIS hose on the left


3. Place a cap with hose clamp on the outlet


4. Remove the gray hose from both the crank case and the airbox
(mines black)


5. Place a cap and hose clamp on the airbox where you removed
the gray hose from #4 (the pic shows the cap, but no clamp)


6. Connect the piece of (14 inch ) tubing to the crank case, retain
hose clamp from removed hose (I used clear for illustration purposes)


7. Route the tubing from the crank case along the side of the frame
to the gray AIS hose you removed in #2. Cut 1 -2 inches off the gray
AIS hose to remove the molded bend. Install your tubing connector
in the gray AIS hose. Cut the excess tubing you ran from the crank
case and connect the two tubes. (mines gray and clear) (air box
removal isn't necessary, had it off to do something else)


8. Make sure everything is connected and clears when the tank is
down. Bolt down the gas tank and your done! :woot Treat yourself to a :beermug or :beermug :beermug :beermug :thumbup


© Copyright 2005 - R6Messagenet.com - All rights reserved.
I had a question about why my crank case gets extremely hot? The previous owner wrecked it and it never ran hot before I replaced it but now after running for a short time it gets really hot making the fairing really hot! Didn’t change anything but the cover, hooked everything up the same and seals? Any answers?? Pics are below!
 

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