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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is a basic how to remove your entire Air induction System 03'-04' R6 for about $2. (For 06's refer to post #136 for added info.)
If you have questions on why you would remove it there are some threads on this board that explain it.

You need:
-One 1/2 inch hose cap sold at any Auto Parts store
-Two 5/8 inch hose cap
-3 small hose clamps to secure caps

1.) Remove or prop gas tank. I usually prop my tank for basic work like picture shows. For the AIS removal I decided to remove the tank. The AIS hose that runs to air box is circled. Soon to be removed..


2.) Remove air box, flip it upside down and plug the hole the AIS hose connects to with a 1/2 inch cap. In this pic I already have the cap installed (circled) on the upper right hole (with it upside down as shown) and I am holding the same cap in my hand to show what it looks like before installed. Put a clamp on it.


3.) Remove plastic heat shield. VERY hard to remove and install. Make sure you remember to install it back on the bike. It is important for heat reduction. It is held on with two plastic type rivet buttons and then wires are cable tied in two locations to it. Pop out plastic rivet and cable ties and gently remove shield. Shown in pics on bike and off bike.



4.) Now remove the one bolt holding on the AIS(cut off valve unit). You can see it directly over radiator and get to it from front of radiator and behind front wheel. First pic is AIS on bike (circled) and the Reed covers (circled) you will soon be removing in step #6. The second pic is showing the location of the one bolt you need to remove from the AIS unit (circled area). It's hard to see in pic.



5.) Now with bolt removed slide off hose clamps on the two hoses that go to engine, disconnect wire harness and take out the AIS unit. Thats all that holds it in place. Now cable tie the wire harness that is left on bike to a safe location out of the way. I put electrical tape over it just to keep it clean.


6.) Remove both reed cover plates the hoses that are connected to them shown in picture #5. (two allen bolts hold on the cover plates). Gently pry off reed plates. They should pop out fairly easy. First pic shows one in my hand. Second pic shows it removed from bike.



7.) Now you unscrew the tiny screw holding the curved arm in place and flip the curved arm over so when you tighten it back up with the screw it holds the reed completely shut so no air can go in or out. Make sure the reed stays centered over hole for good seal. Here is a pick of one done and one stock. The reeds on the left have been flipped and on the right is stock position.


8.) Replace reed plate and plate cover. I decided to cap the holes even know there is no air flow anymore. I would think this is optional. here is a pic with everything removed and capped (circled).


9.) Put heat shield back on exactly how you removed it. This is a pain but you need it on the bike! Put air box and tank back on and your done. here is a pic of everything removed.


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Discussion Starter #4
SONIC6 said:
What is the difference between the complete removal of the AIS than just blocking it?
Most likely no difference. Just another option for people that want it gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
TimR6Rocstarz said:
again..what does this do..... :banghead
"AIS takes clean air from the air box where it is distributed and pulled (under vacuum) past the reed valves and in to the exhaust port where it mixes with
the unburned fuel and ignites @ 1200 degrees it in the exhaust header. " (quote by 04UpInFlames). Well said.

If you get allot of deceleration popping with a slip on or full system this removed will help reduce it. The AIS helps the bike put out "cleaner" emisions. Thats why a "racer" would have no need for it and if you get a after market pipe some choose to remove it.
 

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TEZZMIN said:
"AIS takes clean air from the air box where it is distributed and pulled (under vacuum) past the reed valves and in to the exhaust port where it mixes with
the unburned fuel and ignites @ 1200 degrees it in the exhaust header. "

If you get allot of deceleration popping with a slip on or full system this removed will help reduce it. The AIS helps the bike put out "cleaner" emisions. Thats why a "racer" would have no need for it and if you get a after market pipe some choose to remove it.

ah i see...

thanx
 

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Nice write up Tezz, thanks for all the work and time!
Ride Safe.
Russ
PS I appreciate you quoting my AIS explanation, I'm honored.
 

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Tezz,
Please confirm two things for me, one, if you left the air box on the motor,
is the AIS hose to the airbox, the hose towards the front of the bike,
or the one to the rear. Two, would you be able to remove the AIS hose
from the airbox, without removing the airbox from the engine???
I might just want to install a plug in the airbox hose and reattach it to
the airbox. I think this would serve the same purpose, with less work.
Thanks.
Ride Safe.
Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #10
04UpInFlames said:
Tezz,
Please confirm two things for me, one, if you left the air box on the motor,
is the AIS hose to the airbox, the hose towards the front of the bike,
or the one to the rear. Two, would you be able to remove the AIS hose
from the airbox, without removing the airbox from the engine???
I might just want to install a plug in the airbox hose and reattach it to
the airbox. I think this would serve the same purpose, with less work.
Thanks.
Ride Safe.
Russ

In the 1st pic I posted you can just see two hoses connected to the air box. The AIS hose is the hose furthest to the rear of the bike. If you have a service manual it also shows the hose just to verify it. Yes it can be slipped off the air box and I think there is enough play in the hose to work with it so you should be able to plug the hose without airbox removal.

Oh ya I should have put your name next to the quote so i will edit it. :)
 

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Tezz,
Thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it.
I thought it was the hose to the rear, but
just wanted to make sure. Glad I will not have
to remove the airbox, this will make the job much easier. :)
Great work, thanks again.
Ride Safe.
Russ
PS I love the way your exhaust can looks, is that a stock one
that you painted or anodized?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Russ. It's a stock can I lightly sand blasted and painted with 1200f high temp paint and then polished the end capps. So far it has held up to the heat and if anything the heat from the can has made the paint even stronger like it's baked on. :D
 

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It is entirely necessary that you reinstall the plastic heat shield? I was in there the other day replacing plugs and left it out b/c it was such a PITA. Didn't look like it performed any really useful function except pissing me off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Discussion Starter #16
Most likely no gains in my opinion but I don't really know. Any weight savings is a plus even if it's just a little here and a little there. I do know the bike is easier to tune on a dyno with it blocked.
 

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TEZZMIN said:
I do know the bike is easier to tune on a dyno with it blocked.



O2 readings are more accurate---makes sense to me. i think i'll try this this weekend. i am becoming a pro at putting that damn heatshield back on---this time it only took me 20 minutes to reassemble everything i took apart to change my coils :lol




thanks for the write-up. very good read :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #20
HighBimminR6 said:
Wow nice how-to. For those who just wanna block the AIS and not completely remove it, you can go to HighBimmin.com for the how-to..
Yes your write up is very nice. Thanks for the link. I remembered seeing that somewhere. I had mine blocked also. Since I was working on my bike in the area and there was a thread about completely removing the system I decided to take it all out. Either way will work.
 
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