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Hey, nice marmot!
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've mooched off of this board enough over the past few years, it's about time that I contribute something! :wink

On the AFC Beer Scale this rates as a 1 out of 5.
<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/beer.jpg">
Note: I did this on my '03, different year models should be similar.

1. Grab a pair of needle nose pliers, a 12 mm socket and a 8 mm socket.

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step1.jpg">

2. Loosen and remove these 3 bolts and gently let down the caliper.

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step2.jpg">

3. Use your needle nose pliers to pull these 2 pins out.

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step3.jpg">

4. Use your needle nose pliers to push this rod completely out of the caliper. The pads and plate will fall out as the rod is removed. **Edit - From now until the end of the installation do not squeeze your brake lever, doing this could lead to having to bleed your entire system! (thanks Cever :) )**

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step4.jpg">

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step5.jpg">

5. Compress each of the 4 pistons toward the caliper. You will need to do this so when the new pads are installed they will fit around the rotor.

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step6.jpg">

6. Open up your new package of brake pads. :)

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step7.jpg">

7. Slide your new pads and the plate back in place and slide the rod back through. Notice the arrow on the plate, it needs to point in the direction that the wheel rotates. In this case, the arrow points up.

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step8.jpg">

8. Reinstall your pins through the rod.

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step9.jpg">

9. Tighten bolts to manufacturers specs.

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step10.jpg">

10. Once you have done both calipers, make sure to squeeze your brake lever several times until you get some pressure back into your brake system.

<img SRC="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tezmac/pics/R6/Step11.jpg">


That should be it. The rear brakes are pretty much exactly the same. I didn't include them in the writeup as, well, mine don't need to be changed yet! Be careful on your brakes for a couple hundred miles as they will need a little time to seat to the rotor. If I missed anything please let me know and I will add it to the How To, thanks!

Cever said:
Also be sure that if you properly clean your rotor if required or suggested by the manufactor
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Added to the How-To quick link list....A very usuful contribution!!!


Just a quick word of warning to any potiential non-mechanical types...DO NOT squeeze your lever with the caliper off the rotor...It can be quite a PITA to pull them back apart without bleeding the entire system all over again.
 

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Stonecutter
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Very nice write up, and definately well presented and very helpful. And yes, try to keep the caliper pistons apart during the re and re.

I :love the 'How-to' forum because of these kinds of posts. :hattip
 

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Hey, nice marmot!
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Discussion Starter #5
The pads I took off mine had about 9,600 miles on them and if you look at the one of the pics above I still had plenty of wear on them. When I use mine, I work them pretty hard, but I have alot of in town miles and I mostly engine break. I imagine I would have gotten 15,000 to 20,000 miles out of them maybe?
 

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just a quick tip... you DO NOT have to pull the calipers off in order to change the pads. You can start the process at step #3 above with no problems. That's how I do it anyway.
 

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Hey, nice marmot!
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Discussion Starter #9
Shaggy-R6 said:
just a quick tip... you DO NOT have to pull the calipers off in order to change the pads. You can start the process at step #3 above with no problems. That's how I do it anyway.
You are absolutely correct, but I think it makes it a little easier to have them off, and it only takes an extra few seconds to remove the caliper. Either way it's an easy job!
 

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Gixxer rider
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I'm swapping my pads for some Galfer HH pads today. Any tips on breaking in the pads and I should clean off the rotor with brake clean, correct?
 

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Ramp Junkie
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get a torque wrench, or you can use the ugh scale, 29 ft pounds would be about half an ugh, you want them tight but dont reef on them too much or youll strip the threads and thats a pita. Nice how to btw, good pictures nice write up, wojo lemmie know when you wannna do your brakes ill give ya a hand if i have time.
 

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I was going to change my pads tonight... decided to check the board for a how to and BAM! it's here... I love this place :)
 

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yeah, well ima noob, dont need the front brakes yet, but my 2000 r6 needs rear, and it looks a helluva lot different, mainly, i dont see the pin that i need to take out. anybody got a writeup on that????

if i figure it out on my own ill post pics

**added later
BALLS!!!
i stripped one of the hex bolts that holds on the rear caliper, anyone know where i can get a replacement besides the dealership (mine takes 4eva to order parts)
 

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just to let all the noobs know, i did the front brakes on mine for the 1st time (and i am not mechanical at all) it is super easy, and the same on 99-02 bikes (mines is a 2000). I think the rear brake would be easy too if somebody didnt tighten that bolt so much that i f*ing stripped it, ohh well.

this job does not require any beers. at most open a beer and set it on the counter, then complete the job and drink the beer, it will still be cold.
 

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bleeding HELP

hi

changed pads and brake lines, but the brakes have no pressure at all, tried bleeding but still no pressure. apparantly best way is to vacuum the lines.

but dont know how.

please help

thanks

fraz
 

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firaz said:
hi

changed pads and brake lines, but the brakes have no pressure at all, tried bleeding but still no pressure. apparantly best way is to vacuum the lines.

but dont know how.

please help

thanks

fraz
Did you make sure to bleed the master cylinder also? Did the caliper bleed points squirk fluid when you pumped the brake?
 

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firaz, you still have air in the system. bleed it until no air escapes when you crack the bleeder stems. and check that master cylinder like asphalt said.


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