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I just used a screw driver and made an / in the rivit and called it good
 

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Discussion Starter #182
R0d said:
I just used a screw driver and made an / in the rivit and called it good
Your Joking I hope? You would be better off using a clip type link with epoxy if thats the case.
 

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Great write up. Used it last weekend to do by 15/50 520 conversion. Getting the master link plate on, though, was a PITA, even with the Motion Pro tool. I had a hell of a time keeping it lined up so the rivets would go through the two holes in the plate. After that, it was a piece of cake. :thumbup
 

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Just did the 520 myself the other day too. Used the motion pro tool kit and went 15/50. Great setup. I'm very pleased. The gold chain looks pimp too.
 

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So I did the sprocket change on my 2003 R6 and the torque value is definately NOT 72 ft/lbs it is 32 ft/lbs per the Yamaha dealership's repair manual. After tightning 4 nuts to 72 the bolt stretch was way past limits so I went ahead and replaced the four that I didnt strip and also had to replace the 2 that I did strip. So anyone who has done this or is planning on doing this, it is a MAJOR concern because if everyone is riding around with 72 ft/lbs they are risking losing those studs and nuts. If they are fine for now, your just running the risk. If you go to replace the sprocket later I would suggest replacing all of the studs and nuts to if you were riding around at 72. That is an insane torque value for 6 bolts of that size. You have whole HUB assemblies on cars at or around that torque spec for christ sake! Aside from that, it was a great write up. One more thing, if you go to cyclegear to try and buy this stuff, they will try to sell you the mini chain press and call it a rivet tool. They guy did the same thing to me. You do need to press the chain link plate on, but that little press will not rivet the master link. The guy sold it to me and I went home to use it and realized what I had just done. It is 3 pieces of aluminum with 2 screws holding all the pieces together and a larger hex set screw on the top plate to press the 2 pressing plates together. If that sounds confusing do a google search for it.
 

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CephasGT said:
:shrug I just torque 'em until they feel right. Good ole' German Torque Spec (Gutentite). :lol
Yup pretty much. The sprocket bolts tend to strip and break often so using torque specs on them isn't recommended.
 

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Azr6 said:
Yup pretty much. The sprocket bolts tend to strip and break often so using torque specs on them isn't recommended.
Using the torque specs are rocemmended, you just need the right one. Torque them to 32 ft/lbs and you will be fine. please if you are going to do this upgrade do not torque to 72. Why do you think so many people keep stripping them...hmm maybe because the torque value is wrong!
 

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wish i had come back on reread this whole post(read it several time when i ordered my conversion) just stripped out like 3 of the bolts trying to torque them to 72....now i have to go order new ones....
 

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Discussion Starter #193
I do give warning in the first post about the torque spec. With that said I changed my rear sprocket probably 5 times with no problems at all using the torque spec in the book. :shrug

If someone can show me a updated repair book with a different torque spec I would be glad to change my write up.
 

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Well, I didnt read this thread to the end and I was too lazy to check the manuals for my 05R6.
I torqued to 72ft-lbs on the rear sprocket with no problem.
Whole job went off without a hitch :)
Sorry to hear others stripped cuz i can only imagine how much that would suck, but mark me down in the happy customer section.

Thanks man. :worship
 

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TEZZMIN said:
Bike 2004 R6

I changed out the stock setup for the 520 conversion D.I.D./Renthal 15/49. Here are pics and some details.


1.) Remove left lower fairing. I do it without taking off the mid fairing because I'm lazy like that. Then remove two bolts that hold on the coolant overflow and cable tie it out of the way.


2.) Remove front sprocket cover and work it out and off bike. I did this without removing the shift rod. While you are in this area you need to straighten the large counter shaft lock washer so it's flat. I do this with a flat head screw driver. Leave the nut tight for now.


3.) Next I wrapped a thick towel around a metal rod (mine is from a floor jack) and put it between the wheel and swingarm to hold the wheel in place as I loosened the sprocket nut (32mm). You can also try holding the rear brake if you want. That method does not work well at all. Once you loosen the nut just leave it on the bike for now so you can cut the chain..


4.) Now it's safe to cut the chain off. I used a dremel and cut off the end of the rivet heads and then popped off the sideplate with a flat head screw driver. Once the link is removed with the bike in nuetral roll the chain off the front sprocket.



5.) Next remove rear wheel and remove rear sprocket (17mm nuts).



6.) Install new sprocket to wheel tightening with cross pattern. Torque 72ft-lbs USE CAUTION! some have stripped the nuts (read this thread)


7.) Install rear wheel and now is a good time to take off the front sprocket all ready loose and put on new sprocket hand tight with new lock washer. Now you need to figure out how many links you need for your setup. With the 15/49 I am same as stock length so I had to cut 4 links off a 120 link chain. Double check before you cut to many off! Then run new chain up and around front sprocket and connect it on the rear sprocket.


8.) Now with a rivet tool press the side plate onto the chain. Then rivet together. I have seen rivet specs on how big you should press the head( I don't have the specs). You want to press it enough, but don't want to crack or split the rivet. The rivet tool is a must have and lasts forever so it's worth the money.


9.) You can now adjust the chain slack and wheel alignment. Next torque up the rear wheel axle nut(80ft-lbs). Then tighten and torque front sprocket nut (65ft-lbs) with wheel wedged reversed from removal. Crimp lock washer with channel locks in two locations.


10.) Install cover, coolant overflow and fairing and your done.


© Copyright 2005 - R6Messagenet.com - All rights reserved.

I see this was posted back in '04. Will this still apply to a '05 R6? Is this what you would recommend as well? (520 conversion D.I.D./Renthal 15/49)
 

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:lol I can't believe you just quoted the whole how-to...

Yes, the procedure is identical for an 05. As for brand/gearing recommendations, there are about 1000 threads on the topic in the Modifications forum.
 

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How do you remove the threaded stud bolt on the rear hub if there is no head for a socket wrench to fit on?

Also, how do you install the new stud bolt without damaging any threads that the lock nut goes on?
 

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some vice grips if you have new studs or use two nuts and back them off slowely then reinstall with loctite unless their some special type of stud
 

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Well my rear sprocket has finally had it after 9k miles. I had a local shop put the 520 conversion kit on my bike this last time. I'm doing it myself this time. When I removed the front sprocket I noticed that the thicker edge was facing towards the engine. After reading this thread I now know that the thick edge should be facing away from the engine:thumbup
 

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