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I was preparing to winterize my bike and changed the oil. I put in Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30 ( automobile oil ), no energy conserving additives. After the oil change, while on the rear stand, I started up the bike and put the bike in 1st gear... while my clutch is pulled in all the way my wheel still is being driven by the motor, it's acting like I wasn't even pulling in the clutch. What happened??? Any ideas why this would have happened. I had no problem with my clutch last time I rode the bike.

Mike
 

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Ok try this, pull the clutch and step on the rear brake. You should kill the engine if the clutch isn't engaged.

Did you put enough oil back in it?
 

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Was the wheel spinning fast? You probably just need to adjust your clutch cable. When I do the same with my bike the wheel will spin slowly.
 

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It's normal, if you ever take a look at a clutch and how it fuctions you will know why.

Same thing will happen with it in netural.

just stick your foot on the side wall and it will stop spinning.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If I apply the rear brake, with the clutch pulled in, the bike stalls... If I put my foot against the side wall, the wheel still turns :(

I put in about 2.75 quarts of oil. As far as adjusting my clutch, I don't think that is the problem but I will try that... Clutch was working fine last time I rode.

Could it be the oil, I am in western NY and it is about 35 degrees out right now.

:(

Mike
 

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I can't begin to figure out how you did this during an oil change.......
 

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I've seen bikes do this after they've been stored for a while. The clutch plates will stick together and not disengage when you pull the lever. Usually, it will free up through use. If not, it's just a matter of taking the clutch pack apart, re-oil the plates and re-assemble.
 

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oh, I see what you're talking about.

My bike does that too on the rear stand. Grab the tire with your hand and see if you can stop it. You probably can. I don't know what causes this but there is no friction behind it. Normal for me
 

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Firetire, that's stupid ^ Grab it with your hand and it's not just the normal false spin and you'll get hurt.
 

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I'm with Cever. It's dangerous grabbing the tire. Besides the tire is too wide, if you really want to slow the spin, just wrap your hand around the chain, much easier to get a grip on.

By the way, most modern bikes have this thing call "a brake". Check to see if your bike has one. There is a small pedal thingy typically mounted on the right hand side in front of the driver foot rest. I've heard they can be an effective way of reducing rear tire spin and occasionally lowering the velocity of the bike while in motion. If your bike does not have one, take it in to your local bike shop and see if they can put one on for you. If they ask you who recommended you get one, just tell them Fred Flintstone sent you. He said his feet were wearing thin from stopping his stoneage mobile and that these new-fangled brake things were the way to go. It may be a little pricey, but at least you get to keep all your fingers.....
 

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:spit Nice very nice
 

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The wheel will spin a little when on a rear stand with cold oil. I have heard of clutch plates sticking togeather but have never had to deal with it so I can offer no sound advice on that issue.
 

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Stock Tiip ARIO!
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Not a good idea putting wrong oil in even a oil change will not remove all of it,take the oil out and new filter and take oil out of the oil pump too, this won't fit the clutch most likely:2cents
 

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^ Don't offer advice if you don't know what you are talking about, and don't take advice from someone that can't get the bolt off the rear caliper
 

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I could get the bolt off if I have the right tools, but i don't right now, a allen wrench can only go so far. A impact driver would get the bolt off with a socket allen thingy,but don't listen to me just put auto oil in you bike should make it run real smooth:arguematcSomebody over tighten that bolt too.
 

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Cever said:
^ Don't offer advice if you don't know what you are talking about, and don't take advice from someone that can't get the bolt off the rear caliper
hey man, i am all for insulting sonofwolf b/c he is stupid, but when you just lump everyone who cant get the bolt off the rear caliper together then i get thrown in too. I stripped the shit out of it and then shattered a craftsman #3 blot remover on it, still havent gotten it off.:myfault

but yeah, if i ever see sunofwolf's name, then i know some dumb ass advice is comin up next:thumbdown :thumbdown :thumbdown

sunofwolf isnt the guy who put 60 weight oil in his bike just b/c it said it was for 4cycle motorcycle engines is he????

i put "car oil" in my bike and it runs fine
 

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funklab said:
but yeah, if i ever see sunofwolf's name, then i know some dumb ass advice is comin up next:thumbdown :thumbdown :thumbdown

sunofwolf isnt the guy who put 60 weight oil in his bike just b/c it said it was for 4cycle motorcycle engines is he????

i put "car oil" in my bike and it runs fine
No, that was another guy... sunofwolf is the guy that uses lead additives and octane booster... :lol
 

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sunofwolf said:
Ibut don't listen to me just put auto oil in you bike should make it run real smooth:arguematcSomebody over tighten that bolt too.
Yeah too bad you are wrong because there is no such thing as "auto oil". It is all oil. your so called "auto oil" will work fine in a bike. In fact the typical "false spin" that has been mentioned, which is the result of the plates sliding against each other with cold thick oil, would actually be reduced (in theory) using "auto oil" that has energy conserving additives because they reduce friction. Of course that should be avoided, as our OP did, but several people on here will also tell you they have used EC oils with no problems. I've tried it recently but the jury is out. I seem to have to be much more agressive on race starts to keep from just spinning in place [shrug] but I have no shifting problems on track. I've also got half stock and half Barnett springs with new friction plates [shrug].

So ... yeah don't listen to someone who doesn't know what they are talking about. If someone says they choose to use the more expensive "bike oil" that is fine but as soon as they actually try to claim that "auto oil" is bad they lose all credibility.

As for the topic at hand ... if the bike wants to stall with the rear wheel on the ground, or worse you actually feel the bike want to lurch forwards when you put it in gear with the clutch pulled in, then yeah you have a problem and the first thing to do is adjust the clutch lever to make it pull the cable a litle more. specifically adjust the clutch so that you feel tension on the level further away from the grip. This will pull the clutch plates further apart and hopefully solve your problem. if it doesn't, come back here and we'll all try to figure it out.
 
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