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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
a few months ago my 06 r6s with 35,000 miles on it got hit. so now im thinkin about gettin a 08 r6 n makin it a track bike. anything you guys think i should look out for. and what things should i get right away. i got some money to spend on some parts. i never done a track day but i think i was pretty good with my r6s on the street. use to hit up palamor mountain ALOT. i just want to do a full track bike now.
 

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Buy some tape for the lights and blinkers and get a ratchet set to remove the license plate bracket. Also get someone who knows what they are doing to dial in your suspension!!! Make sure that you have some good gear and you are set. Our bikes are made to go from the showroom to the track with minimal tweaking. Eventually some new tires, exhaust, pcIII, etc. but unless you want to get crazy and want to try to make some money on racing, not much is needed except skill and some huevos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
do u think brake lins should be on the top of the list. i was thinking at first bodywork, exhuast system and air filter. im not sure if i should get a power commander and ing module thoe, if i do i wanna dyno it, but it its not that needed i rather buy some pretty good suspension, im thinking ohlins txx shock in the rear and front end cartg. in the front. what you guys think? and will i need a damper if i build the front end
 

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get the stuff you NEED first then wants

brakes are more important than looks IMO.

get the stop fast stuff first before you get the go fast equipment...

also do your front first, then rear

look into traxxion suspension as well. there site is very good for learning about suspension, i think its cheaper but just as good. so unless you wanna pay for a name then go with whats best for you
 

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I would get a new SHOCK and get the front end sprung for your weight, SS brakes, maybe better pads.

I would definitely do the suspension upgrade. It made a world of difference on my race bike.
 

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I would get a new SHOCK and get the front end sprung for your weight, SS brakes, maybe better pads.

I would definitely do the suspension upgrade. It made a world of difference on my race bike.

IMO you don't need the 25mm Ohlin Cartridge kit. You're skill level will not exceed to that potential. I would either go with the AK20 or ohlin 20mm superbike kit with springs sprung for your weight. The rear I have the TTX36 which is super nice. There are other options out there too...such as penske triple or elka triple.

Body work I would choose Armour Body or Shark Skinz
Brake line: Speigler lines are the shit

Exhaust/Power commander is a must for the 06-08 R6 because most bodywork won't work with stock piping.

Damper I like the piston style ones. They were design for sportbikes and the rotary are design for dirt bikes, but I guess you buy what you can afford.

I would definitely give Rob Oliva at Lithium Motorsports a call if you want to get all these things. He can definitely give you his opinions and what the best route is for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i will for sure look into all those things. since my crash i decided to ride only at the track and not the street, for now, till i cant hold out any more) so i plan on doin at least 1 track day a month, if i can afford it 2. im even thinkin about signing up for keiths supes riding school. but i feel that i got a good hang for a bike riding my r6S.

i know i need exhuast system to fit the race body, but do you got to tune it? (just seeing if i can save almost $1,000 on p/c, ing, moudle and dyno)

i goal is to get race body and spend the rest of the money on handling, not so much on making the engine fast
 

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Catalyst bodywork held up fine with the stock exhaust. When I switched to e-racings it melted.


Suspension and tires are going to give you better lap times than HP mods.
I'd do lines & pads ASAP also.
Bodywork as well.
Then start getting the little things like rearsets, levers, etc.
You'll enjoy the 06-08 R6 a lot more with -1, +2 sprockets. That may vary based on track but I've ran that on huge open tracks, and tight technical tracks and liked it.
If you cant afford a race school read books like twist of the wrist 2. Talk to other racers and have them watch your form & give pointers.

You'll have to get your suspension done at the track cause each rider and each set of tires on each track under different temps will all change the settings you use. You can set your sag before you go though.

Upgrade suspension after the above, once you are fast enough to need it.
Do HP mods last.

that's HMO on the matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i wanna wait till i hit the track to change my gearing so that i dont lose more top end then i want to. ill probley stay at streets of willow most track day since im in san diego. but i wanna take a race school for sure the first time out on the track.

can i put on a full exhuast system (plus bmc air filter) and hook up the 02 sensor instead of tuning it with out havin the engine out of wack?

suspension will prolly be a must for me, im pretty good at findin good deals on the net, check out how cheap i found the rear shock for at graves. $1,000. pretty good dont you think? http://www.gravesport.com/Products/Bike-Yamaha-R6-2008.shtml
 

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here is a correspondence between todd (owner of cal-sportbike.com) and me concerning brake pads. look below to get some VERY good information.

my questions in italics and his response:

Question: Galfer or EBC HH pads?

You sold me on the fact that galfer holds its friction longer per say than
ebc. if it were on a graph the friction line would be horizontal for galfer
and negative slope for ebc. i just dont have the facts to back it up.
can you help me out on this?


EBC pads have stronger initial bite since their higher copper content means
they build heat faster. But according to THEIR OWN marketing ads, their peak
friction rating is .6u. Galfer is .7u, or roughly 15% higher peak friction,
which means stopping power. However, Galfer uses higher ceramic content in
their sintered mix, meaning the pads cool faster thus they put less thermal
demand on the rotors, so they're more "rotor friendly" than EBC pads. Also,
a difference in feel comes because ceramic builds heat in a more linear
fashion, so some people THINK EBC pads are better, but it's a difference in
FEEL (only initial bite) not in peak performance. Like having a car geared
strong in 1st and 2nd but gets beat in the 1/4 mile, ya know?

O and am i correct in saying that rotors and pads have to be made by the
same company? For instance you can't get ebc pads with galfer rotors or
vice versa yes?


It's a very good idea to use rotors and pads from the same company in many
cases, mostly because they only warranty their components to work together.
Makes sense, because they would use THEIR pads to test on their rotors, so
Galfer, EBC, Ferodo, and others, tend to not want to warranty rotors if you
use someone else's pads. And quite right IMO.

one more question: can you compare the different series of galfer HH pads.
I know we had discussed this as well between the 1396 series and the 1375
series and whatever other HH line they have.


The one numbers that matter for you is 1375 versus 1370. 1396 is for offroad
applications basically. So the 1370 and 1375 are both bronze-based ceramic
compound. However the 1375 also adds a ceramic coated backing plate, which
is a heat barrier to lessen thermal bleed through to the caliper pistons and
thus the fluid. Any time you lower the temp of your fluid, the more you stay
away from the dreaded boiling point which causes total fluid degradation. So
this is why the 1375 compound is more expensive, but is much more popular
for track riders and serious sport riders who understand the facts about
braking performance.

Now, to help you understand that I'm not just cheerleading Galfer and
ignoring anything else...understand that I don't always run Galfer pads on
MY OWN bikes. In fact, my Ducati 888SPO has Ferodo XRAC pads on BrakeTech
Axis ductile iron rotors, which is a step UP from the Galfer setup. But the
iron rotors can stand up to the higher thermal demand of the XRAC pads.

And on my track bike, with a Brembo setup and 19x18 radial master cylinder,
I really loved the Galfer 1375HH pads since they complemented the way the
radial master applies a lot of force quickly. I actually tried Vesrah pads
(sort of between Ferodo and Galfer in friction) and they were too abrupt, so
I wanted a more linear feel for predictability in all conditions.

Hope this helps!


Best Regards,

Todd Robinson - Owner & GM
Cal-Sportbike * Toll Free (877) 234-5150 x3
 
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