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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am selling my Ohlins shock off my 2001 R6. I put this up for sale awhile back but ended up hanging on to my bike for a bit longer, now the bike is gone so i am selling the shock again. This shock fits a 99-02 R6 and has a remote preload adjuster, rebound, compression and height adjustment. The shock was serviced about 3 months ago by Evan Steele Performance in Arizona and was valved and sprung for a 160 lb rider. Evan builds the superstock AMA bikes for team ESP's Chris Paris so he does great work. I am in San Diego and I am asking $500 shipped for the shock, let me know if you want it:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
did you sell it for the asking price?

also a little off topic: if im looking to upgrade my suspension should i get front forks or rear first?
I did a valve and springs on the forks first, then saved up for the rear. I think it depends what you can spend and what issues you are feeling with your current set up. The 99-02 fork springs are so soft stock, i would suggest replacing those first and going from there. Shock went to a local member so i knocked off money for shipping. :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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^very cool

ok so then how do i know that i need to change the springs for my weight?

this is what it tells me:
FRONT FORK SPRINGS
Recommended Fork Spring Rate for Racing: 0.913 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Fork Spring Rate: .760 kg/mm (stock)
Available FRSP S3625 Series Springs are:


the stock spring rate says stock, or since its a 99 is it due for new springs anyway?

and when you say springs and valves, what does that mean exactly?
is that basically completely new internals or completely new fork assembly all together?

and how much am i looking at for a fork spring and valve job total cost? i saw the springs were ~110 what else do i need and cost to be able to do this?

sorry for all the questions, i've just been steering away from performance mods and started more towards suspension things.

thanks a lot :thumbup
 

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nevermind i just didn't read it close enough.

its telling me what to get and then telling me what i have already...duh

but nevertheless the other questions still apply.

and i just checked the rear and its recommending a LOWER spring rate than stock. is that normal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah the front and rear springs are always different weights stock and i do not understand why. The stock rear spring should work just fine for you though because the stock valving in the shock is soft. Just get your sag set up to find the right preload setting for the rear shock.

To do you front springs all you need to buy is the springs and i would suggest changing the fork oil while you are in there. 7wt oil is stock and that is what you want, you only need one bottle of it total. you pull the fork cap off, pull out the spacer and washers, pull the spring out then dump out all the oil. Once you are sure you have as much oil out as you can, put new oil back in (about 475cc) of oil in each fork. pour it in and move the dampening rod up and down to get the oil in all the valving, you are looking for the oil to be 110mm from the top of the fork leg with the dampening rod in and the inner fork tube dropped all the way.

now compare the length of the stock and aftermarket spring, if the new spring is shorter you will want to add washers between the spring and the spacer so that the length of the spring + spacer is the same stock as with the aftermarket spring. The springs may be the same length, then you are good to go. put the spring in, spacer in, washer in and before you screw the cap back on the dampening rod, screw the rebound screw all the way in. put the fork cap on the dampening rod then screw the cap into the fork and you are done.......sounds easy right haha.

new valving is new fork internals and you will need a shop or suspension tuner to do new valving for you, the price varies on who does it and what you get. Where are you located? I know of 2 good people, one in the Los angeles area and one in arizona.
 

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whoa...

so the springs are something i could do if i can do engine/tranny work i could do this you think? also, all the parts i would need can i get those from racetech/ohlins? like the spacers and washers? or is that more general like something at lowe's/home depot?

the instructions you gave make sense, and it sounds easy but im sure its more complicated... is this something i would have to take the forks out of the triples? im thinking yes but you never know...

and is the oil cc with/without spacers? and how exact does it need to be right to the mm or a little over/less ok

just wondering if this is something better off taking to a suspension tech or i could do it myself. i understand the valving is something a tech would need to do with a press but the springs sounds like something i might be able to do.

thanks for all the help so far, and sorry for turning this sale thread into a tech question :lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
the springs are pretty simple. You can order springs and oil online or you good go to like a cycle gear or something and get it. The spacers are already in the forks and after market springs often come with some extra washers, if you need them. If you needed more, lowes/home depot is fine. If you have a manual for the bike it goes over how to do it all as well.

you measure the oil height with all the springs/washers/spacers out of the forks and you do want it to be between 110-120mm. too much oil and the forks will not be able to travel all the way. Again, everything out of them and you slide the fork tube and dampening rod all the way down. You will have to take the forks out to do this.

It is very doable for you but if you are not comfortable doing it then taking to a suspension tech would be a good idea and you know it will be done correct. I did it just because i like to learn to work on everything i can. Messing up your forks could have some obvious set backs however.
 
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