And if someone says this thing is too weak compared to the real deal air wrench, I should outright say "yes, I agree!". 240lb/ft is not the best but it's still better than stripping heads off by hand.
big socket sizes
I just got an electric impact wrench and it didn't come with any sockets (but it was only $50 so I took it anyway).
Now I'll definitely find use for it wrenching on cars, but right now I'm more into getting my R6 on the road (track actually).
So, for a 1/2" driver, what impact socket sizes are useful on the R6? I could go off and try to make a list, but maybe someone has that in memory..
Thanks!
Now I'll definitely find use for it wrenching on cars, but right now I'm more into getting my R6 on the road (track actually).
So, for a 1/2" driver, what impact socket sizes are useful on the R6? I could go off and try to make a list, but maybe someone has that in memory..
Thanks!
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I really dont think it would be that useful...atleast imo...the only thing it would be useful for is taking axle nuts off...but you should be torquing the nuts back on so i dunno.
How about the sprocket? Or a steering head (is that a 24mm?)almightyares said:I really dont think it would be that useful...atleast imo...the only thing it would be useful for is taking axle nuts off...but you should be torquing the nuts back on so i dunno.
Steering stem nut- 36 mm
Front Sprocket nut-32 mm
Rear sprocket nuts- 17 mm
Front Sprocket nut-32 mm
Rear sprocket nuts- 17 mm
BTW, is there anyone else here who thinks torquing stuff to spec is overstated?
I mean, I've dealt with enough bolts and nuts of all sizes and made of all sorts of materials, and I think I know better how the one I'm wrenching at should be torqued. At least because I can take things like condition of the surface into account, and because I have a direct feel for how it responds to getting force applied to it.
Some things surprised me though. Spark plugs were SO lightly torqued on my bike, it's scary. I didn't lean on them when I put new ones in, but damn that was loose. Is that by design or the PO just forgot to tighten them?
I mean, I've dealt with enough bolts and nuts of all sizes and made of all sorts of materials, and I think I know better how the one I'm wrenching at should be torqued. At least because I can take things like condition of the surface into account, and because I have a direct feel for how it responds to getting force applied to it.
Some things surprised me though. Spark plugs were SO lightly torqued on my bike, it's scary. I didn't lean on them when I put new ones in, but damn that was loose. Is that by design or the PO just forgot to tighten them?
rear axle 32
the one thing I never tighten to spec is the oil drain plug.
the one thing I never tighten to spec is the oil drain plug.
That one's easy on my bike 'cause I have to safety-wire it anywayserpentracer said:rear axle 32
the one thing I never tighten to spec is the oil drain plug.
Why is that?serpentracer said:the one thing I never tighten to spec is the oil drain plug.
because its way too much. its just fucking crazy to tighten a plug bolt that tight. no sense in risking a broken oil pan.Nas19320 said:Why is that?
you dont want this to happen...http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86338
I only just snug it up. been doing that for 3 years. no leaks or loose bolt.
Nas19320 said:Steering stem nut- 36 mm
Front Sprocket nut-32 mm
Rear sprocket nuts- 17 mm
36mm is the size of the oil filter head on my BMW car, that's definitely not the steering stem nut size on my '99 R6. More like 32mm. Steering stem is the center of the triple-clamp, correct?
Steering stem nut changed in size in 01 I believe, when the stem was changed to alum.
99 rear sprocket nuts use a 14 mm wrench to remove, I'm not sure when the switch to 17 mm happened.
99 rear sprocket nuts use a 14 mm wrench to remove, I'm not sure when the switch to 17 mm happened.
I second that on the oil drain plug, Aluminum engine cases crack like butter. Make it snug and safety wire it, even if you're on the street. Then there is no problems
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