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Discussion Starter #1
I have a lovely 02 r6 with 16k miles, stock exhaust and all that, and its a bit hard to start, especially when cold. with the choke open, it will kick once then just crank. i always have to hold the throttle open a little while cranking, then when it fires it shoots up to like 6k (due to open throttle). um.. is this normal? i get the idea its flooding or too rich when starting maybe? my exhaust smoke when cold is good and white too.
when the bike is warm, choke closed, it sorta creeps to life when i start it. its not hard to start, it just like mumbles up to idle, as opposed to springing to life like every car ive owned.
my idle is always nice, but sometimes it will run run terrible off idle up to 4k. right at 4k it takes off. most the time it has decent power below 4k (smooth). the problem comes and goes with no apparent warning.

so- what does this sound like to you carb expert peeps?

~thanx for reading my rediculously long explanation~
 

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sync your carbs...choke is normal for cold weather...at 16k miles your bike is going to show it's age....let it warm up...maybe check into some jetting for you bike...i know with stock exhaust jetting isnt required..but was jetting installed prior to your owning of the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i really dont know whats up with the jets- i got it at 14k and its history is pretty questionable.. (its pretty beat up, and it used to have a slip on). I have a micron on the way- i guess i'll see how its behavior changes with the new exhaust
 

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My 01' R6 was the same way. Was hard as hell to start in the cold weather. I use to have to jump it off a trolling motor battery, that's how bad it was.:myfault

I started my 05 for the 1st time in a month and it fired right up. Ahh I love FI.
 

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As long as it starts don't worry about it. I've had a few carbed R6s and sometimes they don't start at all during the winter. I'm in cold-ass Minnesota so maybe that has something to do with it but if it's below freezing it's definitely not going to start like it would when it's 70. I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yah i keep the choke open until a tepmp shows up on teh guage. then i drop the choike and ride away. i'll let you guys know what happens when i get my micron. i guess if it was jetted with an open exhaust before, putting the stock on on would mess with the mixture.
 

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josh18_2k said:
yah i keep the choke open until a tepmp shows up on teh guage. then i drop the choike and ride away. i'll let you guys know what happens when i get my micron. i guess if it was jetted with an open exhaust before, putting the stock on on would mess with the mixture.
Before i flip out can someone who has read the manual post. On my honda it said not to run it more than 15 secs as your just pouring fuel in the cylinders and it can impair lubrication. Dont know if the 6 is the same.
 

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I have the same prob. I have to choke and give throttle to get it started but I live in cali so the temp is around 60. It a 00 and I got it with 6k mi on it. It runs good but if I turn the choke off after it's started and the temp is not showing it will shut off. Is that normal? Should I get an exaust too?
 

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Karonic, that is not normal, you should be able to turn the choke off after a few seconds, I'd get a tune-up and have them check your carbs.

And about how long to choke, definitely do not choke it until the temp reads, that's way too long. F3 rider, I don't have a manual but that is about the maximum time I'd use it on any bike. You should only use it as long as you need to.
 

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^^ Yeah, don't run the choke ANY longer than absolutely necessary.

During the summer months - I never need to use my choke to start my bike. Even when it's sat for a few days.

Now in the winter, it will still 'start' but it won't stay running for more than a few seconds, so after it starts, I add about 1/2 choke for 10 seconds or so. Just enough for it to keep running.

Now, for those of you with FI bikes... You do actually have a built in 'choke'. I am sure you've noticed that from a cold start, your rpm's shoot up to around 3k rpms.

The main differance is us guys with carbs can control it. If you have a FI bike, you have no control.

The day will soon come when I 'upgrade' to a FI R6 but that is the one thing I will miss about my old '99
 

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Discussion Starter #13
you guys say the choke shouldnt be open for very long at all- but on FI vehicles, the idle is raised by a cold start injector, which just dumps extra gas in (like a choke). the cold start injector stays running on FI vehicles for a good amount of time (usually a few minutes) so I don't see why the choke would be any different.
 

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josh18_2k said:
you guys say the choke shouldnt be open for very long at all- but on FI vehicles, the idle is raised by a cold start injector, which just dumps extra gas in (like a choke). the cold start injector stays running on FI vehicles for a good amount of time (usually a few minutes) so I don't see why the choke would be any different.
I don't know much about the FI built in 'choke' But it can't dump the same amount of fuel for the few minutes your talking about.

At least with my car, the RPM's will shoot up to around 2200 for about 1-2 seconds on start-up, then drop down to around 1200 and slowly work it's way down to the base idle speed of 850 over the next minute or so.

You should only need to use full choke for the first 5-10 seconds, then drop it down the 1/2 choke.

This is what I did when I first got my bike, but after I cleaned out the carbs, new plugs, and did a carb sync, It hasen't been necessary to.

This little section I read from motoman here is the main reason I always try and avoid using the choke; http://mototuneusa.com/circular_logic.htm

Tip #2:
Even if you don't turn up the throttle on start-up,
the factory does it for you ...

Did you know that most motorcycles are designed in a way which actually causes their engines to wear out faster ?? When the "engineers who design the bikes"* write the owner's manuals, besides teaching millions of people to break it in easy, they also tell people to use the choke to start the engine.
* The more you learn about engines, the more you'll realize that much of the "engine information" in the owner's manuals wasn't written by the engineers and has absolutely nothing to do with good engineering.

The "choke" on most bikes enrichens the fuel/air mixture, but it also increases the engine speed on start-up. The fast idle choke causes the cold engine to rev up to 2,500 - 3,000rpms, which greatly increases start-up wear.

Because of this, using the "choke" causes almost all of the engine wear the bike will ever
get !! Much more than during any other running condition -- even when the engine is at redline !!

If possible, don't use the choke at all. If your engine absolutely won't start without it, use the least amount of choke so that the engine idles as low as possible on start-up (ideally 1,000 - 1,250 rpm on most motorcycles).

Some might say, the manufacturers can't help this .... how are you supposed to start a bike, doesn't the mixture have to be richened up when it's cold ?? My answer is: the enrichening effect of the "choke" isn't the problem, the high idle effect is, and that's not at all necessary for cold starting.

Since most consumers and magazine tech writers are unaware of this -- as far as the manufacturers are concerned, there's no problem.
The $ bottom line is: the high idle "choke" design creates an increase in the overall sales of parts, bikes, and mechanical work for the dealerships.

I think this high idle choke effect is still used on newer cars, but I'm not 100% sure.
Can any readers confirm ??
 

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I'm not sure about FI R6s but my 636 has a cold start knob. I've never had to use it and the bike usually drops down to normal revs after a few seconds even when it's really cold.

My R1 was FI also and never idled high like that, I think the FI bikes are different than a carbed bike choking on start-up. If it was idling at 3k for a couple minutes it would be hard to ride. I'm guessing the FI bikes don't just add fuel like a carbed bike, they probably add fuel while keeping the mixture and idle at the right levels.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
something i find interesting- on rotary engines, they always preach a gentle warm up- how its very important to not rev the engine up, run it hard, etc, until its nice and warm. but when you start an rx-7 it shoots up to 3500rpm and stays there for about a minute, before dropping to about 1500 for another minute or so. the 3 rx7's i have are all above 160k miles and on their origional engines. i dunno.
 
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