R6 Message Net banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some help from the electrical gurus out there! I have a mystery electrical problem that killed my bike. Here's what happened. I have noticed on a few occassions the guage pod go out and start blinking. Normally, it would return to normal and only happen once a month or so. First time I worked on it, I found that the headlight bulbs were too high a wattage, so I replaced them. I also noticed that the headlight connector had melted, so I replaced that with a new one. I thought this fixed the problem. Rode several times after that without a problem. Then I went for a ride yesterday and it returned. I parked the bike for a while, and then the battery was dead. I jumped it, reved the motor and saw that the lights got brighter with revs, so I figured it was charging. I continued to ride, and then everything shut down. No guages, no headlights, won't run, starter won't turn over. But I did have guage backlights, blinkers, and tail lights. I checked the battery and it was red hot and appeared swollen. I changed out the batttery, charged it up, and still had the same problem. I put a meter on the new battery, and everything seemed fine there. Bike is now dead. Did the battery damage the elecrical system or did the electrical system kill the battery? Any thoughts? What could be the problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
check your rectifer regulator plug to see if it is burn. if it is then go to the How-to section on this website and look for the 99-02 rectifer fix, then that should solve your problem. running your High beams alot is what tends to burn them up, so with your "high voltage" headlights you could have burn it up too. the only things that u have left to check after this would be your stator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,014 Posts
check your rectifer regulator plug to see if it is burn. if it is then go to the How-to section on this website and look for the 99-02 rectifer fix, then that should solve your problem. running your High beams alot is what tends to burn them up, so with your "high voltage" headlights you could have burn it up too. the only things that u have left to check after this would be your stator.
+1 it's a common problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I pulled the rectifier plug, and it was indeed crispy. The red and one of the white wires were charred. The plug was beyond repair, so I pulled out the spade connectors and soldered on new ones as necessary. I then heat shrinked all the wires so they were insulated. I rewired the r/r and the problem is still there. The electronics act the same whether the r/r is plugged in or not, so does this mean the r/r is shot? I noticed that it was not OEM, and someone had worked on it before. hmmmm.... Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
you could be one of the few that needs to buy a new recitfer(expecially if it is already been replaced once with a aftermarket one). i would also check the stator because that is what puts out the AC voltage and the rectifer converts that AC to DC voltage. there should be something in the service manuel that tells you what your stator should read on the DMM as well as which wires to test(same with the recitfer). do those tests and see what you find. it could be one or the other or a combination of both. you also may wanna try cleaning the contacts on the recitfer with some electrical cleaner they could have some trash built up on them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
you may also wanna read the post that is going on right now that HONDACAFE posted like two spots down from your post. there is alot of numbers on there that might help you out. its titled "99 R6 charging problem"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anyone know how to test a rectifier/regulator?

My problem persists. I am planning on buying a new r/r, but wanted to know if anyone out there knows how to test them. I double-checked my work, and noticed that I wired the r/r differently than the manual. When looking at the connecting side of the plug, I have the red wire on the left. The manual shows the red wire on the right. But I don't know if the manual is showing the wire-side or the connecting side of the plug. Just to see if it changed anything, I switched the red and black and immediately blew a fuse. Does anyone know how it should be wired? Is there a good procedure for testing an r/r?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Bro I had that same problem last year. I ordered a new RR and plus changed the stator. Problem was still there. Took it to yamaha and they said when the RR went out, the bike was using all the battery. So your battery might be shot. I cleaned the crisp parts of the old RR and out the old stator back on and i have been riding on it with no problems. Try it and good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
My problem persists. I am planning on buying a new r/r, but wanted to know if anyone out there knows how to test them. I double-checked my work, and noticed that I wired the r/r differently than the manual. When looking at the connecting side of the plug, I have the red wire on the left. The manual shows the red wire on the right. But I don't know if the manual is showing the wire-side or the connecting side of the plug. Just to see if it changed anything, I switched the red and black and immediately blew a fuse. Does anyone know how it should be wired? Is there a good procedure for testing an r/r?

I just replaced both the Stator and the Rectifier/Regulator and it fried my ECU smoke came out from the bottom of it, it did not blow any of the fuses tho just directly burned my ECU not a cheap part. Thers something jacked up on the charging system on the models. Its just one problem after the other any body else gone thru this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dude, I smoked my ECU too. At this point, I am replacing the whole dang electrical system. Not cheap, but I am kind of fed up at this point. A tip to all - I took my rectifier/regulator to my local shop and they tested it for free. Of course, mine tested bad, and I knew that it would. But it feels good to rule it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I found out last night that my recertifier was melted! I did the how-to, still no luck. My start button works, but it doesnt turn the starter. I checked online for the starter relay (where the 2 30-fuses are located) and I dont know if its the original 1 ( has "MS5F-631" in white letters). Does anyone know any solutions? Ive only had my bike for 3 weeks and ended up buying 3 different batteries, and only got it to ride 4 times :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Has anyone found out what has caused your ICU's to fry? Last year I tore my bike (2002) all the way down to the frame to rebuild it, replace the engine, and clean it really good. Shortly after getting her all back together she ran like a brand new bike :D She made it approximately 300 or so miles before crapping out. The battery was cooking hot, and the IGN fuse was blown. I threw her on a trailer, and replaced the battery upon arriving at my destination. Right after we put in the brand new and fully charged battery the ICU physically smoked upon turning the ignition key. The IGN fuse blew again. So I towed her all the way home where I have been trying to troubleshoot this off and on at my leisure. During attempting to diagnose the problem I also came across the discovery that the rear tail / running lights were not functioning either. I am positive that the turning signals, and rear BRAKE lights do still work though. I also think the headlights, and horn still work as well.

I didn't initially think it would have been related directly to the stator or regulator since they were new and basically new since I replaced the engine (came with it). I was initially checking for any shorts, loose or missing ground connections. I was not able to locate any obvious culprits. Then when I discovered that the rear running lights / tail lights no longer worked I began to think the problem was more directly related to the stator, or regulator parts of the charging system. (I have the Tail light / Brake light / Turn signal integrator made by clear alternatives BTW if anyone wanted to know). So as of now I am thinking more along the lines of; the charging system allowed a voltage surge, or too much voltage to pass through, or that the regulator / rectifier allowed AC voltage to pass through?

Now where I stand is still some confusion. I am in a battle with myself over trying to continue on myself, or take it to a stealership. At this point I would almost rather take it to a stealership, as so I can make sure anything & everything that is wrong with the electrical system gets fixed or replaced as I *cannot* afford to replace ANOTHER ICU! If I think I have fixed it, and I am wrong when I go to fire it up again (I got lucky, the new engine I bought came with an ICU too, so I do have ONE spare ICU * knock on wood *) I am screwed! Because [obviously] if I cook a second ICU that just means that I am still going to have to take it to a shop to fix whatever is causing it, PLUS the cost of another ICU. I just would not be able to afford it at that point! So if anyone here has any further insight as to what I should be looking into, or what is known fact to be the culprit(s); I would GREATLY appreciate it!

ps)
-I have already replaced the battery
-I plan on replacing the clear alternatives integrated rear light assembly because I have been happy with their product since 2003!
-I am prepared to have to replace the regulator / rectifier and even the stator
-I have a known working ICU to use when I know whatever has caused this catastrophe has been resolved (just cannot afford to "think" I have solved it to wind up frying it!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
The circling fight with myself, over working on it myself, or taking it to a stealership is: Since almost nothing on the bike works / functions w/o the ICU plugged in anyway; how would I know that the problem that cooked the ICU is resolved w/o it being plugged in. Yet I cannot risk plugging it in for testing purposes at the risk of frying it!

So; I don't want to risk frying it until I know everything is okay, and I am 100% sure that it is NOT going to fry, but how would I know it's not going to fry until I put it in!

I have just developed a massive headache over this whole thing again! (and this is why I just let it sit most of the winter instead of working on it like I would have liked to) Basically, even if I replaced the stator and the regulator / rectifier what is to say there isn't something else, somewhere else that has caused the ICU (and battery) to cook that I overlooked, or missed. Like a short or missing ground that I missed (or anything for that matter). When could I be 100% sure that it is safe to plug the ICU back in to fire her up, or even just for troubleshooting !!!??? {or should I just take her to a stealership to let them deal with it!!!???}
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I also just recalled that since the "rebuild" the neutral light hasn't worked. I have yet to decipher if this is a problem on its own (physically a bad N/Switch etc) or if it is tied directly into the overall problem(s) that has cooked my battery and ICU...
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top