Main instrument cluster NOT working!

[flyingrigger]

Hope someone CAN help! Started the bike this morning, but have NO speedo or rev-counter display! All the warning lights are working in the bottom panel (Neutral light, indicator light, high beam, low fuel) But no main display, rev counter or oil light! Have checked the main plug in the back of the binnacle and its in tight, the white connector is together, and tight, and I've checked the main fuses under the seat. Is there any "hidden" fuse that I've missed, or can someone tell me how to check the various wires? HELP!!!! :

[brym]

Check the fuses they are near to the battery first. You have done that already all ok
Check battery connections are good & not corroded.
If they are ok check your battery is charged & that the charging system is working properly this can make the display do strange things even if it is only a bit low on the voltage as I found out when the connector to my rectifier burnt out!
You can check the charging system is working by measuring the voltage across the battery before (should be around 12.8V DC) & while running the engine to see the increase. When it is running rev it to 5000 rpm it should go up to 14V DC. If it is lower I would check the connections to your rectifier they might be a bit corroded if so clean them up to get a good connection again. If they are burnt out you can cut off the standard plug & use some crimps they go straight on the rectifier if the wiring is not badly damaged.

The rectifier regulates the AC voltage from the altenator to DC voltage which is what your bike works on it will not like AC and throw a tantrum which is what i suspect your clocks are doing but might be wrong.

Failing that maybe a break in the wires check they have not got to close to the cooling fan by the radiator & nicked a cable should be ok if they were fastened up properly or a break were the cables bends check for continuity (buz them through) between the red wire + on the battery to the red wire at the back of the clocks. Check all the earth connections also black wires. Split the white connector by clocks to get on the pins to check them through to the battery.

I will check back tomorow let me know how you get on

[flyingrigger]

Originally Posted by brym

Check the fuses they are near to the battery first. You have done that already all ok
Check battery connections are good & not corroded.
If they are ok check your battery is charged & that the charging system is working properly this can make the display do strange things even if it is only a bit low on the voltage as I found out when the connector to my rectifier burnt out!
You can check the charging system is working by measuring the voltage across the battery before (should be around 12.8V DC) & while running the engine to see the increase. When it is running rev it to 5000 rpm it should go up to 14V DC. If it is lower I would check the connections to your rectifier they might be a bit corroded if so clean them up to get a good connection again. If they are burnt out you can cut off the standard plug & use some crimps they go straight on the rectifier if the wiring is not badly damaged.

The rectifier regulates the AC voltage from the altenator to DC voltage which is what your bike works on it will not like AC and throw a tantrum which is what i suspect your clocks are doing but might be wrong.

Failing that maybe a break in the wires check they have not got to close to the cooling fan by the radiator & nicked a cable should be ok if they were fastened up properly or a break were the cables bends check for continuity (buz them through) between the red wire + on the battery to the red wire at the back of the clocks. Check all the earth connections also black wires. Split the white connector by clocks to get on the pins to check them through to the battery.

I will check back tomorow let me know how you get on

Thanks for the input! Rec/reg is fine nothing "crisp", nothing broken. Stuck a meter over the battery, 14volts, spot on! It's starting to look like a damaged cable, or duff clocks! It's too dark to check more, so I'll have another go at the wiring tomorrow! Why run cables where they can be checked easily, when you can tape all the F***ers together, and hide them under the tank, and air box?? ......................To be continued!!

[R Sitch]

I'm looking at the circuit diagram in the haynes manual for a '99 R6 and it looks like there's 2 fuses in the circuit. The main fuse (prob just after the battery) and then a back up fuse (in the fusebox). From the backup fuse there's a red wire taking power to the dash, from there it's all pcb distributing power to tacho, neutral light, oil light, and fuel light. High beam indicator is a seperate wire for power as is indicator and also the lights for the dash (one wire each). Most have a common earth apart from indicator light.
From all this I'd say open up the dash (its not too hard the worst bit is taking the nose off) and check for corrosion on the pcb as they seem to have the same power source and earth route.

Hope this helps

[flyingrigger]

Originally Posted by R Sitch

I'm looking at the circuit diagram in the haynes manual for a '99 R6 and it looks like there's 2 fuses in the circuit. The main fuse (prob just after the battery) and then a back up fuse (in the fusebox). From the backup fuse there's a red wire taking power to the dash, from there it's all pcb distributing power to tacho, neutral light, oil light, and fuel light. High beam indicator is a seperate wire for power as is indicator and also the lights for the dash (one wire each). Most have a common earth apart from indicator light.
From all this I'd say open up the dash (its not too hard the worst bit is taking the nose off) and check for corrosion on the pcb as they seem to have the same power source and earth route.

Hope this helps

Thanks for all your hard work! I assume from the above that I am not looking for bad joints, or breaks in the loom. I've just phoned a mate who has a spare dashboard.so I'm going to wait till that turns up (hopefully tomorrow) and drop that in. That will prove continuity of all the cables, plugs, fuses etc. Then I'll rip my dash apart, (and keep his spare if mines F***ed)!! Should be a result. Will keep you all informed!
PS Can these things be "refurbed"? if so anyone know, who can, and how much? Oh, (last question) can the mileage be "corrected" Mines a genuine (documented) 15k, I think his has got 30k+ on it!

[R Sitch]

£80 for a "correction" round our way

[brym]

Thats handy having a spare clock will be a lot quicker to fault find

[brym]

Refurb clocks? well depends whats wrong see if the spare clocks works first If yes then open up your old one and post some pics might be something obvious like a dry solder joint (the sodler joint can appear dull not shiny sometimes indicates a dry joint) Not sure what components are inside them not had one apart before could be a dodgy diode or just a dodgy copper track on the pcb etc etc etc but could be repairable if something is wrong with them not sure about correcting the mileage.
Might be worth having a chat with a Yamaha mechanic they are usually quite helpfull (my local one is skellerns in cheltenham)

[flyingrigger]

Originally Posted by brym

Thats handy having a spare clock will be a lot quicker to fault find

Hi! Thanks for all your help with this! It WAS the clocks Just plugged the other clock set in, and everything works Going to rebuild the bike (when it stops raining) then I'll pull the old clocks apart and see if there's anything that an electronic illiterate can see wrong! I'll keep you posted

[brym]

glad you got it sorted easily