how do you remove a broken bearing race? - R6Messagenet.com
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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how do you remove a broken bearing race?

well i was trying to get the bearing out of my rear wheel (not the sealed one, the spline one) and the inside of it shattered out into a bunch of pieces, leaving me with a outer race still stuck in the wheel. it's completely flush against the inside of the wheel and i cant get a bearing puller inbetween....suggestions?

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 03:20 AM
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pics?

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 03:24 AM Thread Starter
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sure hold on...

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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ok here's what i'm working with...



any attempts with screwdrivers or punches have not worked, they just hurt the wheel.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 01:24 PM
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I've had this happen on a couple vehicles. I recommend a dremel tool with a small cutting head on it (not one of the big round grinding stones, use a metal cutter). You will likely go thru two or three of the cutting heads since the bearing race is very hard steel. Be very careful and go slowly, the cutting head will cut into the aluminum wheel much more easily than the steel.

Cut a notch into the bearing race and slowly work toward its outer edge. Once you're almost thru it, stop cutting and try to punch it out from the back again. When the notch is deep enough, the race will break and you can pull it out with pliers.

When you're installing the new race, first freeze the bearing race for a couple of hours. Heat the wheel surface with a small torch to expand the mounting ring. Quickly drop the frozen (contracted) race into the ring and it should make things much easier to press into place.

*edit* oh, and definitely wear eye and face protection!

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 04:50 PM
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A long drift punch from the other side. Or like above cut a notch in in with a sawzall and crack it.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldogr6
A long drift punch from the other side. Or like above cut a notch in in with a sawzall and crack it.
haha...DON'T use a sawzall, I think that's a bit extreme and a bit on the large side for this job.

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its not really physics, more like anatomy. but dragging a knee makes your balls increase in size thus adding a little more weight on the lean side of the bike.
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Can we please start WW3 already i am sick of this shit.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 07:06 PM
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From the picture it looks like a tool called a blind puller would work.If all else fails.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AwwsChwA
I've had this happen on a couple vehicles. I recommend a dremel tool with a small cutting head on it (not one of the big round grinding stones, use a metal cutter). You will likely go thru two or three of the cutting heads since the bearing race is very hard steel. Be very careful and go slowly, the cutting head will cut into the aluminum wheel much more easily than the steel.

Cut a notch into the bearing race and slowly work toward its outer edge. Once you're almost thru it, stop cutting and try to punch it out from the back again. When the notch is deep enough, the race will break and you can pull it out with pliers.

When you're installing the new race, first freeze the bearing race for a couple of hours. Heat the wheel surface with a small torch to expand the mounting ring. Quickly drop the frozen (contracted) race into the ring and it should make things much easier to press into place.

*edit* oh, and definitely wear eye and face protection!
+1 this is how I've done this as well

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-28-2007, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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good advise awwschwa, i'll definitely give that a shot, gotta go pick up some cutting disks while the wheels are getting powdercoated and use the freeze trick when i get em back....and i have been wearing eye protection...i've had some projectiles scare the shit out of me before, i always wear em now.

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