How to: Install Race Railz from Powers Stuntworx

[Bad Highrider]

I recently purchased these "Race Railz" from Powers Stuntworx They are out of Middletown, PA (I believe) and I ran across their jam-packed booth at The Carlisle Summer Bikefest in Carlisle, PA. Initially I was very impressed with their booth and the quality/rigidness of the products they had on display. I began to ask about these Race Railz they had and they were very helpful. Turns out they ran out of black Race Railz for the 04 R6, so I was unable to take them home that day, but they took my order and were going to ship them to me the next business day. I get a call, Monday around lunch concerning my order. The model year on the order was difficult to read so they called me to assure they were sending the right parts and I was very pleased b/c I would much rather have them call and lose a day but send me the right part first; instead of sending the wrong parts and getting me pissed off. Got them the next day then. As far as service goes:

Now here is the How-To:

Tools needed:
-8mm Hex
-5/16" Hex
-5/32" Hex
-14mm socket w/ extension
-9/16" socket (2 or use a wrench for the 2nd)
-Possibly small screwdriver

1. Unpackage all parts. The parts were wrapped/packaged great, there was no way any parts were going to be damaged or scratched in this box. (do not pay attention to parts layout, incorrect in relation to bike)


2. Start on right side of bike (clutch side) by removing the front motor mount with the 8mm hex.


3. Remove the rubber cap on the rear transmission mount to remove the long bolt inside with the 14mm socket and extension:


4. Place the right side Race Rail up to mounts (!!!Notice no plastic removal!!!) Insert the longer socket head shoulder bolt into the front motor mount and check for clearances. After removing the washer & nylock nut off one side of all-thread, slide all-thread through rail and into mounts through other side.


5. I noticed the Rail would fit better if I slightly reemed the front mount by about 1/32"- 1/16" so I did:


6. Now place bolts into mounts and keep very loose but not as to fall out.


7. Move to left side of bike (throttle side) and remove the middle fairing. (If you've done one before, you may get away with out removing fairing, but I wanted to be clear with pictures)

8. Remove front motor mount bolt with the 8mm hex

9. Take left-side Race Rail and hold up to mounts to check for clearances, and if all looks/fits good, begin to thread the shorter socket head shoulder bolt into the mount (leaving loose) Then, begin to thread the nylock nut/washer onto the all-thread, (leaving loose)



10. If all is satisfactory, begin to tighten bolts, starting with front motor mounts. Note: I pulled the front mount as high as possible in the elongated slot to ensure clearance of plastics when I put them back on.


11. Tighten right side front bolt with 8mm hex

12. Tighten all-thread with 9/16" sockets/wrenches (your choice), may be nice to have an extra set of hands.

13. Begin to re-installed left side plastics, I RECOMMEND installing this bolt first as it did want to bind slightly with the weld on the rail but with some manipulation it all goes back on:


14. Then finish re-installing plastics with 5/32" hex.

15. Install sliders into ends of tubes by running the bolt out enough to seperate the aluminum then slide the entire slider into the tube and begin to tighten the socket head screw with a 5/16" hex until tight. (The screw forces the two cut pieces of aluminum to try to expand outwards, therefore putting pressure onto the inside of the tubing becoming VERY secure.)


16. Take pictures and your complete!















First impressions:
I immediately noticed when backing the bike out of the garage, My uppershins do hit the bolts but I believe I will get used to it and will eventually not do it/stop noticing.
These things are SECURE!

They are larger than a slider and should offer more cosmetic protection however, in the event of a wreck they should disperse the force over more than one point and hopefully not bent a motor mount, but in relation to that, I think there may be a better chance of maybe bending/twisting frame. So it's a Catch 22 situation, you gotta give something/take something. Draw your own conclusions.

Thank you and goodnight

[Bad Highrider]

More pictures here

[d2deluxe]

Ok now crash it already so we can see how well they work ... jk sorry they look cool though

[blackonwhite99r6]

^+1.......... ....how about a pic of the biek on its side so we can see case cover clearance.

[Archangelracerx]

Maybe it's just the way I'm looking at it, but doesn't the back end of the bar hit/rub on the top of your shins? Does it make it harder to rotate around the tank when hanging off?

[Bad Highrider]

The only time you hit your shins really is when you're backing up and also say youre making a sharp turn-around in a parking lot. I've rode alot the past week and can honestly say, I do not notice them anymore.

[2074]

how much did they cost?

[Bad Highrider]

I got them at the Carlisle Bike show for the show price of $130.00. I believe, they were upping the price though after the show. Check the website or give them a call.

[fiveninerzero]

are they crash worthy?

[Azr6]

These are used by stunters and WERA racers and are suppose to work really well. If you can drop a bike from 12 or highside at the track and still be able to pick your bike and ride it away then you know they must be doing something right.