this can be used in conjunction with my how to on painting
HERE, or to just remove surface scratches.
tools/supplies needed:
variable speed buffer
6.5 or 8 inch foam cutting pad
6.5 or 8 inch foam polishing pad
3m rubbing compound (liquid)
3m hand glaze (liquid)
1200 / 1500 / 2000 grit sand paper
a bucket o' clean water with 3-5 drops of dish soap
clean microfiber towels
tack rag
well lit area
this is tedious and time consuming but when done right it makes a paint job stand out. this smooths the imperfections and removes the dirt, dust, and bugs that get in the clearcoat during painting like in
THIS pic. it's ok but can be better, the clearcoat is rough loooking (ie:
orange peel) and needs to be smoothed out.
i'm doing the gas tank on my just painted 750
color sanding:
1. wash the piece to remove any grit or dust, then gently dry it with a clean microfiber towel. next, take a tack rag and wipe it again to make sure the paint is absolutely clean. the smallest particle of grit can make this project go to shit real fast.
2. start with 1200 grit paper. soak the sand paper in the water/soap for 10 mins or so. sand a small section using short straight strokes. make sure to keep the sandpaper wet so it doesn't clog. use a microfiber cloth to wipe off the water so you can inspect your work. repeat the steps: sand, wipe, inspect. take note of any edges or corners. you don't want to sand through them. don't worry about sanding out all the imperfections with 1200 grit, the 1500 / 2000 will do that. sand the entire piece.
3. sand with 1500 grit. repeat the steps: sand, wipe. inspect. until the scratches from the 1200 grit are gone. sand the entire piece.
4. sand with 2000 grit. repeat the steps: sand, wipe. inspect. until the scratches from the 1500 grit are gone. sand the entire piece.
your piece should look like this after sanding:
very dull but smooth. it wants to be polished, it's begging to be polished ... so give it to it
polishing:
1. take your buffer, cutting pad and rubbing compound. shake compound well. pour a half dollar sized amount onto the pad and smear it onto the area about 10x10 inches. i do this to minimize the splatter. DO NOT start buffer while resting on the fairing/tank.
2. buff on a slow speed and slightly tilt it toward the working surface. use the 12, 9, or 3 o'clock positions on the pad to do the work. tilt your buffer away from any sharp edges.
3. once the compound gets hazy wipe off with microfiber cloth. inspect your work. move to the next area to be buffed. DO NOT buff the same area for a long period of time, you may burn through the clear coat and have to repaint the whole damn thing. keep it to moving. do the entire piece, repeat the steps: buff, haze, wipe, inspect. you should see the marks getting finer and finer until they're gone.
3. take your buffer, polishing pad, and hand glaze. repeat the steps: buff, haze, wipe, inspect. until the piece is shiny.
4. you could take it even further and use a polishing pad and liquid polish but that's not recommended for something that was just painted.
your piece will look like this when finished:
that's my truck in the reflection.
(and YES, that's the same tank ... you bastids!)
how to: color sand and polish
Linear Mode
