First of all I will begin by saying that you should not be intimidated to attempt this, like I was.
SO lets begin with the materials needed:
-Everyday assortment of screwdrivers and wrenches
*a thin allen key will be needed to tighten seats under carbs (I think it was 3mm)
-Gunk CARB MEDIC x 1 (spray can with thin tip)
-Household Varsol (second method only)
There are two ways to do this. You either take everything apart in the carburators (jets, needles, floats) and spray them with the carb cleaner stuff, or you can lazy out, get 4L of varsol and let the whole rack sit in it for a while. I recommend the first method and I have been told that the varsol is not good for the rubber diaphragms although I have not noticed any damage.
OK LETS BEGIN
Disassembly (no pictures included sorry)
1. Remove seat
2. Remove gas tank by taking allen screws at the top and under seat off. Now turn the valve under the tank to off and remove the fuel line connecting to it.
3. Remove airbox. Loosen ram air tubes and carb seats under the airbox. Disconnect the funny looking plastic square thing that connects to the rear of the airbox. Disconnect the tubes that connect to the side of the airbox (just pull them off the carbs too), and the one that connects to the top of the airbox.
4. Now the fun begins. Remove the fuel line that connects to the carbs. BEWARE fuel will spill out so have rags ready (sorry for the lack of a good picture).
5. Disconnect the cable that leads to the carbs, a white triangular connector (again sorry for lack of a good pic).
6. If the carbs have not been removed previously this will be the hardest step in dissasembly. Rock the carbs back and forth HARD until they just pop out. The first time I did this it took me 30 mins to do this so if they don't give, you keep GIVIN'.
7. Once they do pop out you will need to deconnect a few more things to get to them out. First we take off the coolant lines under the carb. BEWARE coolant will spill out so get rags ready (sorry for lack of good pic).
8. Next disconnect the choke line (self explanitory)
9. Disconnect the throttle cables on the left side of the carburetors.
10. Go in the neighbour's driveway and tip the carbs in all sorts of directions until all of the fuel is emptied out.
Overhaul:
1. First thing that we would want to do is remove the velocity stacks.
2. We will start at the rear of the carb with removing the black caps. WARNING: there are springs under the cap so dismantle with caution. Then take out the diaphragms and needles.
3. Now we move to the front with the float bowls.
WARNING: THE BRASS SCREWS STRIP VERY VERY VERY EASILY proceed with caution. Once they are off you see something like this (the jets are allready removed in the picture).
4. Remove the main jet and pilot jet (main jet with crescent wrench, pilot with flathead screwdriver). Then screw in the misture screw KEEPING IN MIND HOW MANY TURNS IN YOU ARE GOING. Once you know how many turns out the screws are set at take them out.
5. Remove the float that is kept up by a brass screw at the bottom of the carb. WARNING: These floats are fragile so don't break them, they are $$$$$$$.
Cleaning:
This is pretty self explanitory but spray the inside of the carbs very thoroughly. Stick that nozzle up EVERY hole you see to make sure its not plugged. Do the same with the jets. Then look at the back of the carb (black caps), pull the choke lever in (under carb), and you will notice a little brass opening in the chamber move. Spray that out well. Spray the butterfly valves, as well as any other springs that might be sticking.
Let the whole rack dry. I don't recommend an air compressor because that might just force dust back into the passages.
Assembly:
1. Reverse the dissasembly without forgetting to set the idle mixture screws at their appropriate turns out (ie. 2.5 , 2.75). Also make sure when placing the diaphragms back on the back of the carbs that they are sealing properly or else everything will run very badly. You can check if they are sealing well by pulling the needle back, letting it go, and noticing if it retracts slowly or shuts hard. Make sure they retract slowly and there will be this weird air pressure sound lol.
2. Loosen carb seats and pop the carbs back on. Now here is the headache, you have to access the screws under the carbs to tighten them. GOOD LUCK!
3. Connect all fuel hoses, coolant hoses and throttle/idle cables (do not forget to fill the radiator up to account for the lost coolant, or your ride will run 3-4 degrees hotter)
4. Leave the airbox off and perform a carburetor synchronization (check other How To)
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=21751
5. Airbox on, as well as all of the air/fuel hoses. Tank on. Turn the fuel valve on. Seat on. VROOM VROOM
6. Go enjoy your more economical, powerful, responsive ride

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RIDE SAFE EVERYONE