How-to: Free hp - A front end how to (and short video)

[TZRaceR6]

After some requests, I have decided to create a how to on getting free hp. This was done on an 06 R6, but can be applied to any bike. What I am going to say here is nothing new, and has been written about many times. The free hp I'm referring to is via the front tire. Many people only get one or possibly two revolutions out of the front tire. This can be due to many issues, including misaligned forks, stiction, brake calipers mounted improperly, etc...

This how to does not include anything about brake calipers or pads. It is assumed you have cleaned them and ensured that the pistons function properly and pads are in good condition.

So here you go.

Tools needed:
36mm socket - for steering stem
allen wrenches - for triples and axel pinch bolts
12mm socket - for brake caliper bolts
socket for axel bolt (Can't remember the size? 20mm maybe)
micrometer or sewers tape measure
Front and rear stands

1. Remove upper and lower fairings
2. Remove front tire
3. Place axel back into the forks, do not screw in the axel bolt
4. Loosen the lower and upper triple tree bolts, but don't loosen the upper triple bolts to the point where the fork can slide down, or so you can't turn the front end left or right. You just want about 5-9 ft/lbs or torque on these bolts.
5. Loosen the steering stem bolt (you will have to push the clip-ons all the way to the left to loosen this bolt)
6. As soon as you get the steering stem loose enough to be able to loosen it with your hand, tighten the bolt back down with just your fingers.
7. Now turn the clip-ons back to the right, so that the entire front end is lined up with the bike.
8. Loosen steering stem with your fingers, so it is completely loose.
9. Measure the top of your forks above the triple. You must ensure they are the exact same height. Even .5mm difference can effect wheelspin.
10. Pull axel out of the forks. Did it come out easily? It should be very easy to go in and out of the fork tube opening. If it didn't come out easily, then you need to leave the axel in and loosen the top triple tree pinch bolts, and remeasure your forks above the triple again. Once they are both the same height, tighten down the top triple pinch bolts again.
11. Check and make sure axel moves freely in and out of the fork tubes. You should be able to do this with just your fingers.
12. Once the axel moves freely, put it back into the forks and then tighten down the steering stem bolt (85 ft/lbs of torque I think. Check the manual or download it from this site.)
13. Tighten upper and lower triple tree pinch bolts to correct torques.
14. Check for free play with axel again. It should move easily in and out of the fork tubes.
15. Place front tire back on and use lithium greese on the front axel.
16. Tighten down all bolts as per norm.
17. Pump brake to ensure pads seat correctly.
18. You should now have a good 5-10 spins out of the front tire. If not, check your brake calipers. Cause your front end is now aligned.

Here's a vid of mine:
http://www.zippyvideos.com/9144803275111446/wheel_spin/

[blackonwhite99r6]

daaaaaaammmmm, sweet write up, nice vid, good going, def going to do this on my bike when I finish putting it together. Thanks

[Jerzy]

greatttt write up

Ps. the tool is a 19mm I think. Also many people don't have this tool, so we just use a 19mmBOLT ;)

[rl6]

Thanks for the write up TZ!

Just had a thought, perhaps recomendation before i do this -- Do you think a jack stand or similar type of support under the front axel (assuming you're using a triple tree pin type front stand) will allow you to un-tighten the triple tree allen bolts completely vs. having to "guess" what's loose enough to work?

Edit = Or a regular car jack actually under the axel and it will help to set the fork height in the triples. I don't know, maybe not...

[Meth]

the Pitbul "new" style front end with the peg that goes up into the tripple tree would be ideal for doin this, as it leaves the forks completely free. Check into those if you want the ideal solution.

[TZRaceR6]

^^^ Correct, you need a front end stand that has the pin that goes into the triple tree lower.

[onesmoothr6]

i guess ill be the first

that seems like a lot of work for a easier gliding front wheel. is it a noticeable seat of the pants gain when aligned right and spinning free? Is it worth it?

Thanks

[blackonwhite99r6]

I really dont think it will be noticable to the seat of the pants dyno but I think it will be noticable when you are goin through the gears real quick as far as the front end coming down is concerned, and coming down from wheelies, the quicker your wheel slows down when on the back wheel, the slower it is going when you touch down and the less stable it is and more it takes to get it back up to speed, so the stability will increase as well, but it really depends on how bad it is before you adjust it.

[MrCLoWnY]

Thanks for the write up...


Can you feel any difference after the mod?

[bbirnie]

I dont think TZ is saying you are going to have the fastest bike on the track after this mod, and no it won't give you the equivelent of 5-10 hps....... but an air filter wont win you races alone, a power commander won't win you races alone, a lighter rear sprockret, or lighter rotors won't win you races either. The point is to take all the gains you can, add them all up and it they will all make a difference together. I'm no racer but I'm pretty sure true racers take every gain they can no matter how small, especially when the one mentioned above only costs you time.