Hi guys (and girls), my name is Jeff and this is my first How-To guide as well as my first post. I hope this is useful information that can help you guys save some money as well as understand more about your beloved babies, err, bikes.
This is a guide to specifically rekey the passenger compartment lock if yours breaks. and you need to replace it but use the same key as your ignition and gas cap. After reading this guide though, I am hoping that you will be able to apply this knowledge to the other locks on your bike (ignition and gas tank) and possibly squeeze your way out of buying an entire lock set. I have not tried this with any other lock on the bike since i just haven't had the need but I'm sure if you can somehow get the lock itself out, you can probably take it apart and figure it out.
This was done with the seat lock from a 2003 R6.
This is not a thread to teach you how to pick locks or anything like that. While the information contained does teach you how to take apart the lock and I guess gives a bit of insight that can be translated to help an person understand how to pick locks, it does no more to "teach lock picking" than teaching someone how to replace their ignition key mechanism "teaches" motorcycle theft.
I was riding and got PWNED by the street. This is what happened
If you look at the lock in the tailpiece/rear fairing/side cover whatever it's called thing, you'll notice that the lock mechanism is crooked and not facing straight out like it should. I couldn't get the key in so I thought I could open the compartment by squirming around under the plastic after taking off the main rider seat. I was wrong. I ended up just sticking a screwdriver in the lock (not far enough to jam it or jack it up) and forcing it back up into the regular position. Luckily, the lock was still somewhat attached so I could open up the compartment with the key. After I took off the plastics, this is what the lock assembly looked like:
As you can see, the plastic lock thing is cracked and that just won't do.
Later on, I actually had to break the lock off, pull it out, and then open the compartment manually by pushing the lever for it since it was starting to not work.
Old lock assembly
New lock assembly
Brain with ample intuition
Here is the lock broken away (thats why the plastic used to mount it is all gone):
The back of the lock will look like this. Take off the screws and watch out for the spring (which you can kinda see). This is the spring that turns the key back into the locked position. Remember how you take it apart.
When you take the center thing from the sleeve, watch out for the gold things which are spring loaded. I doubt they will shoot out but it doesn't hurt to be safe.
When you take it out you can see all the little parts of the lock. This lock in particular is a wafer tumbler type of lock. If you take out the little wafers, you will see that some are different.
Take these "wafers" out in order and remember where they belong. The order of them is a sort of combination regarding the grooves in the key.
Here is where you transplant these wafers, in order, into the new lock assembly you have bought.
Putting the key in the lock, you may better understand the way it works (or you can just look wafer tumbler locks in Google). Without all the wafers, you can see where the grooves in the key actually affect the pattern of wafers. When you put the key in, the wafers become flush with the center tube and can freely spin in the plastic sleeve around it.
If your lock isn't as scuffed as mine or if you don't mind having a slightly scuffed lock, you can leave all the wafers in and just transplant that last thing right into the new lock assembly. If you don't have the old lock anymore (I don't know how it would be missing) then this becomes much more complicated. I'm guessing there is a set of wafer heights that correspond to the groove heights in the key. You could figure out the system of wafer shape vs groove height on the key but that may be complicated. A lock may or may not have the right numbers of different wafers that can be re-arranged to work with an old key. There is no rule to what you do, just think a little bit and you'll probably figure it out. It's really an easy thing to do. You can save from 30 to 300 dollars on this instead of taking it to a locksmith to be rekeyed or buying someone elses complete lock set.
I ordered the OEM seat lock assembly from a website for about $23 dollars. The part number for it (2003 r6) is:
There are many options and these methods can probably be applied to the other locks but that will be up to you.
You may have a problem if you don't have the old lock assembly anymore since the new one may not have the correct number of unique wafers to match the pattern of your old motorcycle. In this case you will have to find the right size wafers. I suppose if you could get your hands on any discarded locks, you can collect the wafers and hope that you can match them with the key you have.
I hope someone understood this.
I found a place to buy cheaper parts. Mr. Cycles
has the seat lock assembly for much less (around $18 I think, and the handlebar is only around $62). Good luck all.
I noticed that on the new seat lock assembly, the wafers don't just come out. You may have to force them out from the bottom. just *CAREFULLY* force them out from the bottom with a screwdriver or something else flat. ok. good day.
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