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Old 09-08-2004, 08:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How to: Replace Stator (Generator Rotor) Cover

How to replace a stator cover.

Materials:
4mm alan head wrench (for lower and coolant cover removal)
10mm socket (for coolant reservoir)
5mm alan head wrench and socket (to torque spec)
torx bit
gasket maker
OEM stator cover gasket

First you’ll need to remove your left lower fairing, coolant cover, and coolant reservoir. If you want you can remove the seat and tank to unplug the end of the wire that leads into the cover but the switch can be done without doing this so I didn’t include it. Just try to work as much slack out of the wire as possible and some kind of step stool for the cover to rest on while you take the stator off.

Next remove the 9 screws that hold the cover on the engine. To take the cover off you need to get a good grip on it and tug on it because its held on there pretty good by the magnet.

When you get it off it will look like this

I’m not sure on the exact size of the torx bit because I just tried out a few different sizes I had but all 4 screws you need to remove are the same size. As you can see in the pic you need to remove the bracket that holds the wires against the cover and the 3 screws that hold the stator to the cover.

If these 2 gears come out with the rod that holds them together just line it up properly with the right hole (below the gear in the second pic). If they didn’t come off with the cover just leave them alone.





The 3 screws that hold the stator in the cover are a little tough to break loose because of the loc-tite. It helps to hold the cover with a rag so you don’t slit open your hand like I did.

Now the stator should be free to put in the new cover. Line up the holes on the stator with the holes on the cover, apply some loc-tite and torque to 7.2 ft/lbs.

Take some gasket maker and coat that rubber grommet where the wires lead into the cover. Put the grommet in place, apply some loc-tite to the 4th screw and tighten the bracket down to 5.1 ft/lbs.

Now this step is VERY important… You can either use the original gasket if it isn’t damaged or buy a new one but you must use the OEM gasket. I found this out the hard way and used just gasket maker and sometimes when you start the bike it will sound like a fire cracker going off as soon as the engine starts to crank by itself. So save yourself the trouble and just use the OEM gasket.

I applied some gasket maker to both sides of the gasket just to make sure it will fill in any indentations that might be in the cover or engine block.

Now stick the gasket on the engine block and make sure the cover lines up properly. The 2 little rods sticking out will make sure it goes correctly. Just make sure its lined up before you start to put it on because that magnet will pull the cover as soon as it gets close.

Once the cover is on, start threading the 9 bolts and torque them to 8.7 ft/lbs.

Put the coolant reservoir, cover and lower back on and you’re done.

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Last edited by blueblur : 09-08-2004 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 09-08-2004, 08:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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now with all the trouble you had are you sure the right person to write this
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Old 09-08-2004, 08:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks!! i need this
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Old 09-08-2004, 08:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Deezul
now with all the trouble you had are you sure the right person to write this
Now this step is VERY important…


Its all after that. I still can't beleive a simple gasket was causing all that trouble.

Live and learn but its been purring like a kitten since I did it the right way.
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Old 09-08-2004, 09:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Deezul
now with all the trouble you had are you sure the right person to write this
Burn.... I just got done watching that 70's show

Good write up
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Old 09-15-2004, 04:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
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you don't need to drain the oil or anything right? Is there oil in there??? big miss or no? Just trying to get a little more info.............
Now what about the brake side???
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Old 09-16-2004, 05:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A little oil will drip out when the cover is off but only a few table spoons; nothing big.

I must of had the cover on and off about 5 times before I left it alone and didn't do a thing with the oil.
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Old 09-16-2004, 05:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Can I ask why you were changing the stator in the first place? I've had to do this to my bike when I was in a wreck and crack the cover in half.
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Old 09-16-2004, 10:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I was just replacing the cover. It was a little scratched up from my get off and I wanted it to look new again. Luckily it still ran fine and just looked bad.
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Old 11-19-2004, 03:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Same here, I had a little get off & now I want to replace it so it doesn't look bad. Thanx for the write up, now I can change it. Any idea yet of what the Torx bit size is? I don't think I'll have it so I'd like to go buy it before I start, I hate stopping in the middle of a project to go buy tools

Edit: I just changed this out, and I have a few tips, make sure you can get good torque on the stator & sator bracket screws cause they're in there good from the factory with loctite, and you'll strip the heads if you're not careful like I did on the bracket screw . Luckily my dad was around to bail my ass out & cut a slot in the head & used a ratchet driver with a flat head to get it out. Now it's an allen, much easier. Just take your time & get it right or you'll mess up or forget something.
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Last edited by lilhelmet : 11-24-2004 at 06:25 PM.
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