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Old 06-25-2007, 05:11 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Well... Those 4 Torx Screws were tight. A torx screwdriver will do you no good. I went and bought a bit driver (only available on a 1/4" Drive) but this was good enough so I could use a rachet wrench and break them loose. It took two of us to hold and break them loose, but after that it was simple and easy Mod.

Clean the surface really well, I used steel wool and then some Contact Cleaner to rinse the little bits of metal every where. Use the guide pins to hold your new gasket in place, and that's about it - the right tools make it easy.









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Old 06-30-2007, 04:10 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Thank you for this How-To...It was very hepful to know how tight those bolts are and I replaced them all with stainless steel bolts...Asked yamaha about it and they said all the bolts are cheapos from Japan wish makes them strip easy...also used some Gasket sealer on the new gasket which helped seal the stater cover!
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Old 07-10-2007, 12:45 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Another tip, if you are reinstalling a cover that has been used before make sure you clean ALL the oil out of the screw holes for the torx screws using brake cleaner or something similar. If the torx screws aren't seated and loctited properly they will back out and you will have serious problems. Oil will prevent the loctite from sticking properly.
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Old 12-14-2007, 05:11 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I just replaced my cover last night and the write up on how to is very good.

I have a 07 R6 and yes you need to drain your oil or it will all come out. No this didn't happen to me I just know.

You need to apply loc-tite to the torx screws but make sure its not permanent loc-tite and its a medium strength to make sure vibration doesn't loosen the screws while riding.

There are three torx screws holding the stator and one hold the bracket to secure the wire.

I would use a gasket sealant made for metal gaskets and not gasket maker, there is a difference. The manual for tightening the crankcase cover suggest 5.7 ft-lb not 7.2 ft-lb up to you for how tight, just remember tighter isn't better. They have a rating for a reason, you don't want to shear the threads off the screw shaft or torque the screw head off, not good.
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Old 03-20-2008, 08:13 AM   #35 (permalink)
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but how come mine was dripping oil for good 2-3mins? is that something bad?
the reason why im changing my stator is cuz i dropped my bike on grass and had rashes.
and should i refill the coolant?
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Old 04-26-2008, 10:24 PM   #36 (permalink)
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did you have to drain the oil. i dont think you do, but the manual says you should?
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:18 AM   #37 (permalink)
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i'm a doof. I only read the first page and replied! lol I didn't realize the thread was 4 pages long! Good info in here
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Old 07-12-2008, 11:34 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Wish I had done a search on this topic before I attempted to tackle mine tonight.

Thanks for the write up.
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Old 07-18-2008, 04:57 PM   #39 (permalink)
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this helped a lot. however, the torx screws weren't "THAT" tight. I had my father hold the stator cover vertically while I pressed down on the socket wrench and they snapped (the loctite breaking) and were loose. He had to hold the cover pretty tightly as used his knee as a platform but you could use a socket wrench and just put a good lever on the handle for leverage and i'm sure they'd snap with very light pressure.

Anyway, I ruined the brand new gasket by trying to use a permanent gasket sealant but it was very messy and dried before I could even put it on. I guess I should have tried a semi-permanent or something but I just slapped the old gasket back on and it seems to be doing just fine. Thanks the how-to!
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Old 08-13-2008, 04:34 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I just did this today so I wanted to say thanks for the write up. I leaned the bike over on its side so I didn't have any problems with oil spilling out, but I'm not sure I'd recommend this to everyone. You have to be REALLY careful not to break anything.
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