How to: Replace your clutch - R6Messagenet.com
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-22-2008, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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How to: Replace your clutch

ok guys this is my first real how to so bear with me. and if you have anything to add feel free to let me know.

this was my first time doing any kind of engine tranny work and it wasn't hard at all. just take your time be patient, clean and organized.

first off if you need to ONLY inspect your clutch plates you can just pull off the clutch cover and there will be a few drops of oil nothing that will make a mess. but im assuming that you are needing to replace your clutch if you are reading this. so you WILL need to change your oil and filter when its all said and done.

also this is just a guide. i do not have torque specs or manufacturer clearance specs for the plates. make sure you get the right torque numbers from a manual.

i assume no responsibility if this doesn't work. i have put in my advice and some notes i gathered as i replaced my clutch and it has worked for me.

parts needed:
8 friction plates
7 pressure plates (if needed, only based on inspection)
4 quarts of oil and filter
1 clutch cover gasket

my total (minus pressure plates since i didn't get them) = $160.
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get a clean environment set up either set down a clean towel on your garage floor or use paper sacks whatever you need.

second put your friction plates in a pan of CLEAN oil before you start tearing down, you will need to soak them for anywhere from 15 minutes to 1 hour (even overnight i read...). if you start soaking now, you will be good by the time you need to put them in.

remove lowers and right side fairing.

drain your oil...

loosen the bolt that holds the clutch cable taught


pull the cable out of the hold its in and remove the cable from the arm off the clutch cover.


remove your idle adjuster and set it out of the way. using a hex head remove the bolts holding on the clutch cover making sure to do opposite heads in a circle. for instance start at the top bolt, then move to the bottom, then back to the next bolt on top, and then the next bolt on bottom etc...


my advice: i would remove the oil level check dipstick and the oil cap on top of the cover and set aside. for me it got in the way a bit and removing it made it easier and i used the oil cap hole as a finger hole.

remove clutch cover, there are some spots along the right side of the cover you can get your fingers under. if that still doesn't work, you may need to use an "L" shaped allen wrench as leverage.

when you take it off lay it down on a clean towel, and this is what you will see:


unbolt the bolts (use a socket not a phillips) in the same fashion you did the clutch cover, start at the top, move to the bottom etc.

remove the clutch cover plate. pull out all the friction and pressure plates out of the clutch basket. if you notice there will be one odd one thicker than the rest. keep note of this one as this plate will go in FIRST when you rebuild it.

here is what it looks like with everything out:


springs and pressure plate off with cover and pull rod:


pressure plates and old friction plates:


this is the time to inspect your pressure plates to make sure they are within spec. basically lay them on a flat surface to make sure they aren't warped and look at them closely to make sure they are not bluing.


another view:


and install is the reverse of taking it apart.

now you can take those friction plates out of the pan of oil. first put on the thicker pressure plate (remember the one you were supposed to keep separate from the rest). then friction plate, pressure plate, friction plate and so on until the basket is full. the LAST piece you put on should be a friction plate.

put the pull rod into the main pressure plate so that it is sticking OUT when you put it on the basket. put the springs and bolt them down to spec in the same fashion you took them off. start at top, go to bottom and move around etc.

clean the old gasket off both the cover and engine case. put new gasket on.

now for the HARDEST PART of the whole project. --getting the cover on--

pull the pull rod out so it is not "limp." and angle it so that the teeth are looking back and slightly up. point the clutch cable arm back (towards the back of the bike). when you mount it, you will know you got it right because you can't get it on if you do it wrong. just keep trying until you get it on. i watched an AMA tech at mid ohio do this for 20 minutes so dont worry if it takes you a while.

my problem as to why it took 4-5 hours was i kept getting a dead clutch lever. no resistance at all. this was because the clutch cable arm was too far forward when i started to mount it. i would get the cover on no problem actually i just couldn't figure out why i was getting a dead lever.

one way to check is you can push the cable arm up to a point where it stops. now, there is a dot on the arm and an arrow on the cover. at the point where you can't push it anymore, these need to line up. if they don't you need to redo the clutch cover and adjust the arm accordingly.


when its all done you should have full lever feel. also make sure to put the clutch hand adjuster to the middle so you have room to fine tune.

attach the cable and make sure you slip the cable itself back where you got it and tighten the bolt down.


and dont forget to fill with oil when your done.

and your all set!

if i forgot anything im sorry, i got a little tired writing this long thing. ill proof read it later and if i find anything wrong or missing ill edit it.

Last edited by natedogg624; 07-17-2008 at 11:45 PM.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 04:08 AM
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very nice very nice..... this is very helpful write up man!!!!!
saves a lot of money....
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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saved me over 250 dollars in labor...
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 04:10 AM
Gossamer has MOJO!!!
 
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very cool sir!
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