How To - CCFL DDE for 2007 R1 (steps may vary for 04-06 R1 and 03-05 R6, 06+ R6S)

[zerofighter]

This DIY is specifically made for R1messagenet and R6messagenet! So I will only post it on R1 and R6messagenet and maybe link it to the other forums to help increase traffic to the R1MN.

If I am missing anything or need to add something to the DIY let me know. Yes, I know about the pictures, I haven’t had time to get some.

I can't remember all of the sizes of the tools needed, so you might need a bunch of different sizes.

Some terminology before we start.
DDE – Daytime Demon Eyes – This came from the e46 (99-05 3series) modding world when they first started this craze, these are CCFL rings that are used. These are brighter and much cleaner.
Angel Eyes – just like DDEs but came from the facelifted e39 (01-04 5series) and are LED, they are plastic rings with cuts in them so you can actually see the rings. A LED is shined through an end of the plastic ring making them light up. They are not even close to the DDE in terms of looks and brightness.

Tools Required:
-Heat gun
-Flat head screwdriver ( the tip looks like: - )
-Philips screwdriver (the tip looks like: + ).
-Stubby philips screwdriver ( + ). This will help you so so much, as you need to get screws out of tight spaces so I highly recommend you get one.
-Assorted sizes of Allen keys for the fairing bolts (If I remember correctly, you will need a 5mm Allen key)
-10mm socket or wrench
-Wire strippers and wire cutters

Other things needed for this;
-4 CCFL 80mm rings
-Egg carton (Weird yes, but I noticed that this will help you keep the bolts and small pieces seperate and will actually help to on reassembly.
-Transparent paint, if needed (more on this later, but can be found in any model store, get it in a spray)
-Black paint, a small brush, and some paint thinner if needed
-2 different color of wires (I used 18ga, but any around that is fine)
-A connectable fuse
-switch for the DDEs
-silicon (found in some womens breasts and hardware stores) You need enough to seal the headlights, keep this in mind when buying it.

When you remove a fairing, place all the bolts/clips that belong to that fairing into a seperate section in the egg carton so you don't loss/mix stuff.



Step 1: Read the DIY before going any further.
-Calm down cowboy. Before you jump into this, read this DIY!
Think, are you really up for this task? It will take you a day or 2, if not more. Can you handle this DIY.


Step 2: Buy the CCFLs, wires, heat shrink, fuse, switch, and tools that you may need.
-For the CCFLs, you can get them from any computer nerd/modding store. I found it is cheaper online, I can find you a link for a site later on. You can get wires and heat shrink at any hardware store along with the tools you might need. It is best to get 2 different colors of wire, one for ground and one for power. Pick up a 5.0A fuse that you can wire into the power wire, as well as the switch.


Step 3: Test the CCFL rings. Paint if needed.
-Remove the rings from the fan and out of the plastic casing. Connect the CCFL ring to the inverter, you can hook up the 2 rings to 1 box. Scrip the red and black cord coming from the inverter about an inch. Not test the rings on the bikes battery, a 9V, or a separate 12V battery.

-If the you want red DDE’s, and you bought some rings that say they are red but actually light up pinkish., then you have been BAMBOOZLED! Ahahahahah. Joking….no but seriously…you are fucked. That is unless you paint them with that red transparent paint that you picked up from the model shop. I did 2 coats of it, spray the whole ring, get at it at all angles, let dry, then see if you missed a spot, then respray for a second time. Keep in mind keep testing the rings after each coat so you can get desired redness.

-Once dry carefully paint the back of the ring with the black paint. BECAREFUL when doing this, take it slow. I only painted the top part of it, maybe 1mm thick. Let dry and test again.

Congrats, you can now take apart the bike and get started.


Step 4: Disassemble the bike's front end.

-Remove the side fairings to enable you to remove the front nose fairing, these fairing bolts require the 5mm Allen key, unlike the R6 fairing bolts, you turn once and it unlocks and comes out, very good design, but I have a feeling that each bolt will cost over $2 each. I noticed that the clips that hold the nose fairing and the side fairings together are made so you have to push and slide the fairing to remove it. Just give it some tough love, but don't abuse the thing. Don't forget to remove the smaller upper black fairing pieces that is by the handle bars.

-Now that you are looking at the side fairings, remove the lower black fairing that is behind the front wheel as it holds the sides together. By now you should have noticed that right under the nose fairing there are 2 black pieces connected to each side fairing, they are held in by push pins, so push in the middle of it and it will unclip. You should be able to remove these pieces from the side fairings. Now you should be able to remove the side fairings. Remember tough love...

-While you have the side fairings off, it would be a good time to install flushies or new signals if you have them.

-What you should have left is the headlights, windscreen, mirrors and the nose fairing. You will need the stubby philips screwdriver for this part, especially when removing the nose fairing. Take the 10mm socket and remove the mirrors, the windscreen should be removable now. I believe there is around 4-6 screws holding the nose fairing on. Now removed, you have access to the headlights.

-Remove the headlights and place the screws in the appropriate place in the egg carton. Disconnect the high beams, running lights, and other connections.

-Now with the headlights off, pretend headlights are you eyes and take a picture and post it here showing your goofy ass off.


Step 5: Opening up your headlights.
Now comes the part that seperates the men from the little boys…. opening the headlights. Do you have the gonads to cook and pry open the headlights? We will see.
You will be using the heat gun and flat head screw driver here.

Take you time on this step, move slowly, DO NOT fuck up here, its for all the marbles on this step, oh yea the heat gun WILL get super fucking hot, so be careful not to burn yourself, the headlights, or your house down!

-Find a place that is clean and lay some cardboard there. So you can make a mess and not have dust and dirt get into the headlights. Remove the air ducts that came off the bike and still are attached to the headlights.

-Alright son, here it goes. With the heat gun heat up where the headlight lens meets the physical headlight assembly. If you can’t find this, you should not be doing this DIY. Do small areas at a time, once heated, stick the flat head in there and pry if open….slowly. Keep doing this along the headlight slowly, it will take long, but may be better. But hey if you are Mr. Know-it-all then go full blast at it and don’t come back crying to me when you fuck up… “Oh Mr.zerofighter…me so sorry….you are all knowing, my headlight is fubar’d”, “Too bad young grasshopper…you done fucked up!”

-When you get to the bottom of the headlight that is connected to the where the air ducts will be, stop. Only heat that area up, do not pry it open too much. You can see if when it is fully assembled on the bike.

-Now the headlight is some what pried open, just muscle that bitch apart. Be sure to use the flat head to remove the glue that will be stringy when opening the assembly as it will be a bitch to clean off of the projector.

-Repeat on each headlight. DO NOT touch the inside of the lense as it is very soft and if you clean it, it might scratch the inside and you will see if in the sunlight, so place the lense so that it is facing up and nothing will get inside it.


Step 6: Install of the CCFL rings
Test the rings again before you install them, just to be sure and to dream about how pimptastic this will look on the bike.

-Now that you have the headlights apart, place the rings on where you would like to have them. And mark the spot with a pencil so you know where to put the silicon. For the high beams, I placed the silicon on the top and centered the ring, for the low beam I placed it at about 1 o’clock position of the metal part of the projector. I will take pics later.

-Place the silicon on where you marked off and place the rings. I used masking tape to hold them in place while they dried. After they have dried, I added more silicon around the points so there is some extra strengthen there. You should wait at least a few hours for the silicon to dry.

-I threaded the wire through the part that is open right above the reflective concave dome. For the low beam, I just tucked the wires it into the back of the headlight, you should be able to feed the wires through the high beam cover. Depending where you mount your inverters you will have to extend your wire by cutting the wires to the inverter and adding more wire so you can mount the inverters in behind the windscreen.


Step 7: Re-seal your head lights.
Remember to remove the masking tape on the rings before you seal the head lights!

-You can re-seal the headlights by just using the glue that is already there, but I decided to add silicon to it just incase to have it properly sealed so I would not have to re-seal them if they fog.

-Use your heat gun and heat up the glue and put together the head light. When you have it together push down the tabs that are up when you pried it open. Add silicon to seal it if you want.

-Place elastics around the housing and lense to hold it together. Use enough to have it tightly together so you don’t have to be holding and squeezing it together while it sets. I would let it set for at least a few hours to dry.

-Again test your DDE’s before re-installing the head lights.


Step 8: Re-install head lights and fairings
-You should be able to reinstall the lights and fairings without me telling you what to do. Even if you ask, I won’t tell you lol.


Step 9: Testing and wiring of the lights.
REMEMBER to use the heat shrink to seal the wires, thus making them waterproof when you connect new wires together! Heat shrink works with heat…duh! You slip it on the wire then connect the wire together and move the heat shrink of the connection and use your lighter to heat it up thus shrinking the heat shrink. Simple…Heat…shrink.

-Now you should have the bike back together. It is time to wire this biznitch up! Alright, you have your inverters in place and need to find out how to wire this thing. I wired it to the battery with a switch and a fuse. If you do this, you must remember to turn off the DDE’s when you leave your bike or you will be calling for someone to boost your bike!

-So the inverters have 2 wire coming out of it opposite of where the rings are connected to. They are usually red and black, red for power and black for ground. Take your power wire that your bought and wire it to both of the power wires from the inverters, do the same thing to the ground wire. It is wired as a series circuit. Now use your heat shrink to seal the wires, thus making it waterproof.

-Almost done right? WRONG! Keep your panties on nature boy. You need to connect your switch and fuse to the power wire. I put my fuse near the battery under the seat so it would not get wet. Give you self enough wire and room to place your switch where ever you want.


Step 10: You are done! Take pics, post it up, and send money to me via paypal in thanks!
-Good job on the install, take pics and post it all over the internet, make sure you give me credit for the DIY you bum!

-Oh yea….send me money for the DIY! Lol


-No seriously….