Tire Question

[wizard1325]

ok my Rear tire is almost completely bald so its time for a rear tire but my front tire looks like another season can run throught it...

so do i just change the rear or do i have to change both at the same time?

[haze748]

Originally Posted by wizard1325

ok my Rear tire is almost completely bald so its time for a rear tire but my front tire looks like another season can run throught it...

so do i just change the rear or do i have to change both at the same time?

if money is no object, id get both new, i personally just got a new rear, michelin power race, got it dirt cheap from a guy down here, but thats gonna wear out quick. I still have the stock dunlop qualifier on the front but its gettin bald on the sides where i ride it hard so i need a new one. but to answer your question, id recommend you get both new, but its not deathly critical. a few people that have been riding alot longer than me told me that you can usually go 2 rears for a front, depending on how you ride.

[wizard1325]

what about since my front is the stock dunlops that come with the bike yam 05 r6 and i buy a diablo extended mileage rear tire then would that cause instability? in the bike\/
o better off buying the same rear it came with before\?

[motorcyclepimp]

First off, Haze748 your asking for trouble with your tire setup. You have a stock dunlop front with average grip, then you have a Power race rear with extremely well grip. You are pushing the front and may even tuck the front if you push it hard enough (not sure how fast you are). I would pull that front.

As a rule, if you are going to run different compounds you always want the front to have more grip than the rear. I run Michelin Pilot Race or Slicks and usually do a soft front and a med/soft rear. I can control it a little better when the rear breaks loose rather than the front pushing and tucking the front.

I usually go through 2 to 3 rears for every front tire. Those of course are track tires and on my R1. The litre bikes chew up the rear alot faster. I just built the R6 and havent been on the track with it yet to know how the tires wear.

DOnt worry about buying a new rear and not a front, unless you are going to go to a more agressive tire, then i would buy a set. try sportbiketrackgear.com for the best prices on Michelins.

If you are still a beginner to low intermediate rider I would go to Pilot power CTs. You can keep your stock front (until it wears) then buy a Pilot power CT front later. Or buy the set now and save the front until you need it (better deals when bought as a set).

Stick with the 120/70/17 front and 180/55/17 rear. Dont go to the 190 rear. The 5.5 rim wasnt meant for it. The R1's have a 6.0 rim that is made for a 190.

Any more questions give me a holler.

[wizard1325]

wow thanks good info...
do the mitcholins have a high milage tire? light right now i think i want the pirelli stradus extended milage tire for the rear

i ate threw my stock dunlop in 3k with very tiny tread left ...thats way too uncool
i useing a sportmax dunlop tire

[haze748]

Originally Posted by motorcyclepimp

First off, Haze748 your asking for trouble with your tire setup. You have a stock dunlop front with average grip, then you have a Power race rear with extremely well grip. You are pushing the front and may even tuck the front if you push it hard enough (not sure how fast you are). I would pull that front.

As a rule, if you are going to run different compounds you always want the front to have more grip than the rear. I run Michelin Pilot Race or Slicks and usually do a soft front and a med/soft rear. I can control it a little better when the rear breaks loose rather than the front pushing and tucking the front.

I usually go through 2 to 3 rears for every front tire. Those of course are track tires and on my R1. The litre bikes chew up the rear alot faster. I just built the R6 and havent been on the track with it yet to know how the tires wear.

DOnt worry about buying a new rear and not a front, unless you are going to go to a more agressive tire, then i would buy a set. try sportbiketrackgear.com for the best prices on Michelins.

If you are still a beginner to low intermediate rider I would go to Pilot power CTs. You can keep your stock front (until it wears) then buy a Pilot power CT front later. Or buy the set now and save the front until you need it (better deals when bought as a set).

Stick with the 120/70/17 front and 180/55/17 rear. Dont go to the 190 rear. The 5.5 rim wasnt meant for it. The R1's have a 6.0 rim that is made for a 190.

Any more questions give me a holler.

motorcyclepimp, I am well aware of what you mentioned, the rear is just to hold me over since my stock rear was so badly worn, my front AND rear will be replaced in about a week or so, but I'm being easy with it, no craziness here.

[natedogg624]

plus 1 to motorcyclepimp.

on my r6 i usually will go through 2 rears for every 1 front. a got 2 trackdays on the front and 1 on the rear. and its still good enough for one more on both ends...

as long as you keep same manufacturer and type you'll be fine.

[GYT-RKITRACER]

2 brand new sets front and rear oem takeoffs never used .$250 + actual shipping based on zipcode.. price is for 1 brand new front and rear set only not both sets..pm me if needed..

[FST_R6]

You should always change both tires at the same time to ensure adequate tread. These things are just money hungry machines anyway.....what's another $200.

[natedogg624]

true statement^ but for most of the guys that go on very few aggressive track rides or street canyon rides, the front tire will have changed very little from when they first mounted it as opposed to the rear that gets the most abuse.